Hand going numb cure?

[Tremainiac]

Ok.
I just received my wedges from Murph with the extra bolts. Took the effort to hand write instructions on where the longer bolts go, but..... DOOH!
No instructions on the washer orientation!
This ain't rocket science, but does the seated angle go in the opposite direction of the wedge angle?
Anybody post the instructions, or got a pic?

[maxtog]

I just received my wedges from Murph with the extra bolts. Took the effort to hand write instructions on where the longer bolts go, but..... DOOH!
No instructions on the washer orientation!
This ain't rocket science, but does the seated angle go in the opposite direction of the wedge angle?
Anybody post the instructions, or got a pic?

Mine had full instructions.

There is a score/line on the edge of the washer.  That line should point to the center pivot of the handlebar assembly, for each washer.

[CADMAN97]

Got the 8 degree welded aluminum bars back from the fab shop today, got them installed and took a short (30 minute) ride.  My first impression is that I got the angle right for me.  Close my eyes and let my hands drop onto the grips, and they fall in exactly the right position.  Comfort was much improved, despite the fact that I did not even put on any gloves.   Now that I have seen them and handled them, I am pretty well confident that they exceed the strength requirement by a wide margin.  Hope I get a chance to put a few hundred miles on them before too long. 
I agree that steel would be heavy, but the simplicity of using a single piece of 7/8 round bar, versus welding caps onto tubing, keeps the cost reasonable.   I think the C14 could probably pull the extra 4-5 lbs.  Fab shop plan is to cut the length of bar required, bore and tap the end threads on a lathe, then heat and bend it to the proper angle.  Pretty simple, and cost would be under $160 for both bars.   As mentioned here earlier, talk about extreme anti-vibration bar weights! 
I'm on the fence for now, I may give it a few weeks to decide whether or not I can learn to trust the welds.

Where's the pictures already?? The suspense is killing me...

[Beamer]

I for one would like the bars to be more "strait". A fried has a 08' FZ-1, and it has almost strait across bars, and I find it quite comfortable.

Anyone know of a way to "turn" the bars?

[timbo]

I for one would like the bars to be more "strait". A fried has a 08' FZ-1, and it has almost strait across bars, and I find it quite comfortable.

Anyone know of a way to "turn" the bars?

I agree. It would be cool if they had a riser that bolted down first, then there were separate holes and even adjustable to mount the bars where you wanted them. So they could swing out a little so they were straighter and not bent in so much. Surely a machinist could do this. That way you would have your risers and move the bars out where you want them.

[Barry]

Ok.
I just received my wedges from Murph with the extra bolts. Took the effort to hand write instructions on where the longer bolts go, but..... DOOH!
No instructions on the washer orientation!
This ain't rocket science, but does the seated angle go in the opposite direction of the wedge angle?
Anybody post the instructions, or got a pic?

Murphs wedges go with the thicker part to the outside.  The washers make up for the change in angle of the bars where the bolt head seats... thus, they go in with the thick part of the washer on the INSIDE.

Barry

[Dan_from_WA]

Installed Murph's wedges last night, haven't had a chance to try them out yet.  Wasn't able to reuse the black plastic caps on the allen-head bolts because the bolts are no longer centered in the countersinks with the bar stanchions tilted.  No big deal, I guess you could still use the caps if you trim some plastic off of one side.  Have any of you guys tried to put caps on the bolts with the wedges installed or do you just not bother?

Hopefully the wedges will help with the right-hand numbness problem on long rides.  I also have a Go Cruise so I can give my throttle hand a rest once in a while.  Maybe we'll have a little indian summer here in the northwest so I can give the wedges a proper test.

[maxtog]

Wasn't able to reuse the black plastic caps on the allen-head bolts because the bolts are no longer centered in the countersinks with the bar stanchions tilted.  No big deal, I guess you could still use the caps if you trim some plastic off of one side.

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=4027.msg46731#msg46731



Nope, just didn't bother... yet

[redbarber]

I for one would like the bars to be more "strait". A fried has a 08' FZ-1, and it has almost strait across bars, and I find it quite comfortable.

Anyone know of a way to "turn" the bars?

I did it by having them cut at a 4 degree angle (1/4" out from where the bar exists the stanchion), turned around and welded to make an 8 degree total forward sweep.  I have an option to have these re-made out of a solid piece of steel, but for now I am gaining confidence in the welded up bars.  I've been waiting until I have some miles before reporting how they work for me, and I'm still waiting.  First impressions after only about 300 miles is that this is the correct angle for me.  It only cost me $65 for the work, and I used a pair of bars from ebay, so I can still go back to my original bars if I choose to later.  My shop's estimate to make solid steel bars with any angle you wish comes in at about $150 for the complete set, ready to sand, paint and install.  I'm sure you could find a metal fabrication shop in your area that could either cut/weld your existing bars, or make up a set at any angle you wish.
I would post pics except for two things:  1) The difference really doesn't show up in any picture I have taken, and 2) the bike is currently in getting the 15000 and 20000 mile services done.  I won't have it back until the weekend.