Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Big Red on April 26, 2022, 08:12:41 PM
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First off, big thank you to johnchen for letting us all know about this. Apparently Mazda 3 sensors (PN:BBM2-37-140B) work. I went with the Autel universal sensor that was compatible with the Mazda 3 sensor. Knowing the Mazda 3 protocol and which sensor allowed me to program the Autel universal sensor so that it worked!
PROGRAMMING NOTE: IN HEX CODE THERE IS NO LETTER "O". IT IS ALWAYS THE NUMBER ZERO (0).
Autel USB programming pad: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RGZR2M2
Autel universal TPMS: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L52HD4J or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTQ93VH/
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52032962569_00032bff16.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ngYwYi)
Others have said that they cannot read the Kawasaki sensor. That doesn't matter as long as you HAVE the sensor. The old style Kawasaki sensors have the code both on the cover, and on the circuit board.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52032962564_0e104521a2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ngYwYd)
Once you have your code, new sensor, and the pad, install the Autel software. Click the button "Car Brand", then click on Mazda, Mazda 3, then 2004/01-2004/12. Then click "Create Sensor". You'll see this screen, which shows the Mazda part number noted before.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52031670527_3ac630fc1f.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ngRUTH)
Type in your sensor ID in the box, then click "Program". After it programs, click "Test Sensor" and verify your info. It'll look like this.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52033232805_942351c6f2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ngZVix)
Then install your sensor, and drive it around the block. It took about 1/4 mile and the bike recognized the sensor! I am ecstatic. This sensor is an order of magnitude cheaper then the "right" one.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52032924229_df01c54907.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ngYkzg)
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A big thanks to you, Red, for posting that info!
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Thanks for the write-up and report!
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This sound great. Is it possible to install the new sensor and then do the setup? That way the shop can dismount the tire and swap the sensors in one step.
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This sound great. Is it possible to install the new sensor and then do the setup? That way the shop can dismount the tire and swap the sensors in one step.
Very likely. johnchen said the pad will read the sensor while it's installed. One would assume that you could program it as well. I'll try to remember to try to read the sensor sometime this week.
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That is sweet. I have the original sensors in my '08. I've been too lazy to take the tires off and get the sensors sent out to have the batteries replaced. For $30 I'll just replace them. Thanks for the pictures of the process. Makes it very easy to understand.
Did you go with rubber or metal valve stem?
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That is sweet. I have the original sensors in my '08. I've been too lazy to take the tires off and get the sensors sent out to have the batteries replaced. For $30 I'll just replace them. Thanks for the pictures of the process. Makes it very easy to understand.
Did you go with rubber or metal valve stem?
I went with metal. I don't think it matters either way. The metal one could have the gasket replaced every tire change, which may make changing the tire without breaking the sensor a little easier.
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O'Reillys has the Autel sensor for $28 and it's in stock
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This sound great. Is it possible to install the new sensor and then do the setup? That way the shop can dismount the tire and swap the sensors in one step.
I can verify that the pad WILL do a full scan of the sensor through the wheel. It should program fine.
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O'Reillys has the Autel sensor for $28 and it's in stock
The metal one is $42 in my area. It is nice to know I can get it local.
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So I wonder how long will the Autel sensor last? Maybe it doesn't matter at that price, though.
What a great/neat idea to just program a new/cheap sensor with the old ID. No KDS needed.
I still wish we had sensors that we could recharge from contacts on the valve stem. That way they might never need replacing, just charging once every few years. Or rechargeable external sensors that would just mimic the OEM ones and work with the bike's computer. It sucks having a low/annoying or dead sensor and having to wait for a tire to be worn out to justify the unmount/balance/mount expense.
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So I wonder how long will the Autel sensor last? Maybe it doesn't matter at that price, though.
I would think they’d last quite a while. Car drivers wouldn’t put up with sensors needing to be replaced before the tire either.
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I just ordered a TPMS service kit for $2.59 on Amazon. I'll verify fitment on the sensor. Cheap insurance to replace the gasket. Probably make it easier for the tire guy, too. Pop one bead, pull the sensor, pull the tire. Reverse to install.
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If anyone has a new style TPMS that they'd be willing to let me mess with, let me know. I'll send it back afterward. I promise only non-invasive testing.
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What I have never understood is why they don't just include a piezoelectric generator in the sensor.
That way the battery gets recharged whenever you ride it as braking or acceleration puts energy back into the battery.
But then if they did that I suppose they couldn't charge $300 for a new $25 sensor every few years. <sigh>
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I think it's 3 parts. First, like you said, they don't get to sell replacements. Second is their cost vs a battery. Third is I believe the FCC regs are harsher for something that generates its own power.
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It sure seems to be to be 'revenuing' by Kawasaki. It seems that the entire rest of the world has gone to sealed T.P.S.'s made by large brand companies such as Schrader. They are readily available for very reasonable sums, and the sensor mfg's make it easy for any tire service business to readily replace them as needed. Kawasaki surely did not just happen to miss what was going on, in fact they contracted Schrader to make them custom sensors with a secret decoder ring code to force customers to purchase these 'mangled' sensors from them at simply ridiculously inflated (mild pun intended) prices. Frankly this would simply not fly, at least in the US, if it were any brand of auto but less common vehicles tend to slip past the regulators.
On a similar topic: we (US) are sizing up to have an impressively large tangle between farmers and other heavy equip. users vs. John Deere regarding Deere making their equipment unserviceable by any but their dealer network. Of course there are two distinct views on this but in the end I believe J.D. will be cowed into some type of 'reasonable access' to their equipment by the US gummit. As an aside, I am looking at garden tractors right at the moment and while it would have been a no- brainer but to buy a 3XX or 5XX model from Deere, I am quite put-off by Deere's (and other large equipment manufacturers) behavior in this area. And while there are no such limitations on small equipment such as lawn tractors, it is rubbing my fur the wrong way just purchasing anything from them. The only problem is that they have little competition regarding quality and a dealer network.
<rant mode off>
What I have never understood is why they don't just include a piezoelectric generator in the sensor.
That way the battery gets recharged whenever you ride it as braking or acceleration puts energy back into the battery.
But then if they did that I suppose they couldn't charge $300 for a new $25 sensor every few years. <sigh>
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It sure seems to be to be 'revenuing' by Kawasaki.
Same reason I'm here vs the "other" forum. I believe in the freedom to fix your own stuff which is why I'm posting all of the results of my experimentation. I'm hopeful someone will let me play with a new model sensor.
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Looking at the FCC IDs from the various photos I've seen on the intertubes it looks like the original was a French company LDL Technology and the new sensors are Schrader.
It will be interesting if Big Red can find a new Schrader sensor and see if it wakes up from the low frequency signal. (Jchen's did)
It sure seems to be to be 'revenuing' by Kawasaki. It seems that the entire rest of the world has gone to sealed T.P.S.'s made by large brand companies such as Schrader. They are readily available for very reasonable sums, and the sensor mfg's make it easy for any tire service business to readily replace them as needed. Kawasaki surely did not just happen to miss what was going on, in fact they contracted Schrader to make them custom sensors with a secret decoder ring code to force customers to purchase these 'mangled' sensors from them at simply ridiculously inflated (mild pun intended) prices. Frankly this would simply not fly, at least in the US, if it were any brand of auto but less common vehicles tend to slip past the regulators.
On a similar topic: we (US) are sizing up to have an impressively large tangle between farmers and other heavy equip. users vs. John Deere regarding Deere making their equipment unserviceable by any but their dealer network. Of course there are two distinct views on this but in the end I believe J.D. will be cowed into some type of 'reasonable access' to their equipment by the US gummit. As an aside, I am looking at garden tractors right at the moment and while it would have been a no- brainer but to buy a 3XX or 5XX model from Deere, I am quite put-off by Deere's (and other large equipment manufacturers) behavior in this area. And while there are no such limitations on small equipment such as lawn tractors, it is rubbing my fur the wrong way just purchasing anything from them. The only problem is that they have little competition regarding quality and a dealer network.
<rant mode off>
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No looks like about it...it was the French company.
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I am very happy to report both front and rear sensors are installed and working!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52041067868_b428a145ee.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nhG5oQ)
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I am very happy to report both front and rear sensors are installed and working!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52041067868_b428a145ee.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nhG5oQ)
Like!
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And they report within 1-2 pounds of what my stick gauge and air compressor read. I’m super happy these work. I’ve had my bike for 14 months, and they’ve never been installed.
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I am very happy to report both front and rear sensors are installed and working!
You need +7 psi in rear tire, and +4 in front!
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You need +7 psi in rear tire, and +4 in front!
Better?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52040342642_7df8af3272.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nhCmNW)
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Better?
If cold, yes!
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What is going on with the fuel gauge? The bottom ones are not lit.
Better?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52040342642_7df8af3272.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nhCmNW)
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https://youtu.be/1hXQDHVXohQ
It does this. I believe the low fuel level switch is bad because my range function still works perfectly. Tried cleaning the float to no avail. And I draw the line at replacing the whole pump assembly for that nonsense.
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You don't have to.
https://www.kawasakionlineparts.com.au/partFinder/fiche/kawasaki/2012/zg1400-1400gtr-abs-k-act/fuel-tank-1-2#next
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It’s not the float, as my range function still works. I tried that as the guy in the video said that helped him. The only other thing is the low fuel level switch. And that’s part of the fuel pump assembly.
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OK, I misunderstood.
Yeah the blinking display is caused by a disconnect to at least part of the fuel pump, or more likely the failure of the low fuel switch. Oddly enough, I have never seen one of those fail on any motorcycle. ?? I have a bunch used fuel pumps for a C-14 but unfortunately all of them has a failed low fuel warning switch... these were test subjects while I was developing the low fuel warning eliminator. As this switch is not sold by itself, you will need a new fuel pump ass'y. The good news is that they are pretty commonly available for reasonable prices on the used market.
It’s not the float, as my range function still works. I tried that as the guy in the video said that helped him. The only other thing is the low fuel level switch. And that’s part of the fuel pump assembly.
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I will mention my fuel gauge issue as it is different. My gauge is erratic. Often I will fill up to the very brim but the gauge will not display the top bar when I crank up. Then 10 or 20 miles down the road the top bar will appear. Later in the tank range the gauge will show empty although I know I have half a tank left. I do have Brian's low fuel eliminator.
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To get back on track, 300 miles on the front sensor, no issues. Sensors wake up and correctly report 2 psi low compared to my other gauges every time. 2 psi is 5%, and considering that's less than what my speedo is off by, I'm perfectly fine with it. Especially since it's consistent.
Now that I'm sure these work and continue to do so, anyone who is in the Phoenix, AZ area and needs any help, hit me up. You can have your new sensors installed and bring me your old sensors or numbers and I'll slap the programming in.
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Yeah, wrong thread- apologies.
Bob, if you copy this post into the low fuel warning eliminator thread, I can reply to it there so as not to clog up this thread anymore.
I will mention my fuel gauge issue as it is different. My gauge is erratic. Often I will fill up to the very brim but the gauge will not display the top bar when I crank up. Then 10 or 20 miles down the road the top bar will appear. Later in the tank range the gauge will show empty although I know I have half a tank left. I do have Brian's low fuel eliminator.
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Thanks Brian.... Please no more posts on fuel related issues in this thread. Good information but makes it harder to find unless it's in its own thread.
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Has anyone been able to identify a suitable sled (OEM) style Autel or similar non-Kawi TPMS sensor for this purpose?
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Has anyone been able to identify a suitable sled (OEM) style Autel or similar non-Kawi TPMS sensor for this purpose?
No. I haven't seen any TPMS sensors that have a similar style to the Kawasaki sensor. I've been running the automotive style sensors for over 600 miles without issue. The automotive sensor barely sticks out in the inside of the tire than the screw part of the Kawasaki sensor.
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No. I haven't seen any TPMS sensors that have a similar style to the Kawasaki sensor. I've been running the automotive style sensors for over 600 miles without issue. The automotive sensor barely sticks out in the inside of the tire than the screw part of the Kawasaki sensor.
This was the bit I was concerned about. If it doesn't protrude farther than rim edge, it should be rugged enough for the intended use.
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Great info! I just bought an 09 but there are just dashes for both F and R psi readings. But I have a question. When directions say to type your sensor id in when programming the Mazda sensor does that mean the Mazda sensor id # or the id # on the sensor taken out of the Concours? I'm assuming it would be the original sensor id(code) and the program then clones the Mazda Sensor to the OEM sensor?
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Your assumption is correct. In the directions there's a pic of the stickers on the sensors that have the ID number. You input that number into the program and clone it onto the mazda sensors. Then, as far as the bike is concerned, you have the same old sensors.
EDIT: On the sticker, it's the one listed as the 315MHz ID#
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Also, a dead battery sometimes kills the sensor. Going too long without the battery will eventually degrade the circuit. Both of my old TPMS sensors wouldn't boot back up after removing the battery and using a regulated power supply. If the sensors are only "mostly dead" then replacing the battery is viable.
One upside to using the Mazda sensors is you can install the sensor un-written, and then clone the ID to it. This allows you to uninstall the old sensor and install the new one in a single mounting process. Then you can program in the ID code and you're done. Easy peasy.
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I feel like you guys set this thread up to mess with me. I own a Concours 14, and a Mazda 3. All have one or more bad tpms sensors.
I would be buying a special tool that works on more than one of my vehicles? I would need to find a scientific calculator to figure the odds on this being possible.
Thank you on behalf of those who read more than they post.
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Yes, the Autel pad AND sensors would work for both vehicles. The Autel Pad works with all my vehicles that have TPMS. It was designed to be mostly universal. The Mazda part is just the communication protocol.
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Buy the sensors from EBay for $28
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174132489546
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Awesome!! I knew someone herewould figure this out. I ordered a couple of sensors off Ali Express to try this last month. I'll try to program them since I have them anyway.
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Changed my tires yesterday which provided the opportunity to mount the Autel MX sensors programmed to a Mazda 3 315MHz protocol. They work and the only difference than the stock Kawasaki TPMS sensors is they wake up just a bit slower, maybe 30 seconds longer.
No more flashing red light on the dash. Ahhhh
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If anyone has a new style TPMS that they'd be willing to let me mess with, let me know. I'll send it back afterward. I promise only non-invasive testing.
You ever get any info on the new style sensors?
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So I bought a new bike and lo and behold, no TPMS. :( The one thing I appreciate on my C14 is TPMS which has saved me a few times on low tire pressure.
I'm wondering if the Mazda tire sensors will work with a different brand TPMS that I bought on Amazon. I don't like the way the "tire cap" sensors attach to the rubber valve stems as when you remove the sensors it loses a little bit of air. Also I prefer the rigid valve stems of Kawasaki or Mazda when filling air. I'm willing to send the TPMS gauge and sensors to someone to see if it work with the Mazda tire sensors.
Also here's the Amazon TPMS I bought... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B7YP4FX
-Robert
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What bike did you buy?
That Steelmate TPMS is 433MHz and would need a universal programmable sensor like the Autel MX. (Both 315 & 433MHz)
Is there an link to the user manual for the Steelmate?
It might be possible to have the Autel programmer generate a Hex code and have the Steelmate pair with that.
Interesting...
So I bought a new bike and lo and behold, no TPMS. :( The one thing I appreciate on my C14 is TPMS which has saved me a few times on low tire pressure.
I'm wondering if the Mazda tire sensors will work with a different brand TPMS that I bought on Amazon. I don't like the way the "tire cap" sensors attach to the rubber valve stems as when you remove the sensors it loses a little bit of air. Also I prefer the rigid valve stems of Kawasaki or Mazda when filling air. I'm willing to send the TPMS gauge and sensors to someone to see if it work with the Mazda tire sensors.
Also here's the Amazon TPMS I bought... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B7YP4FX
-Robert
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Robert,
Steelmate has in tire sensors that look like they would work with your head unit.
https://steelmategroup.com/collections/tire-pressure/products/steel-mate-tire-pressure-built-in-sensor-steelmate-tire-pressure-monitoring-system-sensor-tpms-for-sedan-suv-van-wagon-315-433-434mhz
You should email them to see if they would work. support@steelmategroup.com
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What bike did you buy?
It's a new 2022 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT which I knew didn't come with TPMS. That's how I came across SteelMate's on Amazon.
Steelmate has in tire sensors that look like they would work with your head unit.
https://steelmategroup.com/collections/tire-pressure/products/steel-mate-tire-pressure-built-in-sensor-steelmate-tire-pressure-monitoring-system-sensor-tpms-for-sedan-suv-van-wagon-315-433-434mhz
Forgot about checking for Steelmate company website. Thanks! I'll email them and ask.
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So I bought a new bike and lo and behold, no TPMS. :( The one thing I appreciate on my C14 is TPMS
You only appreciated one thing?
I appreciate shaft drive, power windscreen, great brakes, tpms, temp sensor, silky shifting, reliability, long extendable warranties, not having to get out keys, great power and handling, analog dials, lots of storage, etc, etc...
But I do like that TMPS thing you bought. Cheap too! Looks like lots of those type are available now.
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I appreciate shaft drive, power windscreen, great brakes, tpms, temp sensor, silky shifting, reliability, long extendable warranties, not having to get out keys, great power and handling, analog dials, lots of storage, etc, etc...
Trying not to stray away from the thread topic TPMS, but yea there were a few others like shaft, keyfob, and storage. Other items remain to be seen. I have a 1st gen '08 and added many farkles along the way, still a great long distance tourer I'm keeping. But the weight and nimbleness, quick shifter, cruise control, handling and response is what I was looking for on this bike. Really it's a super fun ride! :)
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You ever get any info on the new style sensors?
Not yet. I haven't been able to source a newer model sensor.
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Just got done with a 1,000 mi trip and the Autel sensors worked flawlessly
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I've got about 6k miles on my sensors, and had to replace a rear due to a nail. No issues to report.
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Someone that has access to the "other" forum should let IBAJIM know that the Autel sensors work just fine.
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Someone that has access to the "other" forum should let IBAJIM know that the Autel sensors work just fine.
I saw that, too. *shrug* Funny how the pay-to-play forum doesn't have up to date info!
And he doesn't need the expensive stand alone programmer if he's got a computer.
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I saw that, too. *shrug* Funny how the pay-to-play forum doesn't have up to date info!
And he doesn't need the expensive stand alone programmer if he's got a computer.
Yep, too bad, so sad. I had been there since 2010 until they changed their policy.
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Hard to understand how they don't want to believe real world experiences and will wait for Autel to tell them "we don't make motorcycle sensors".
SMH
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BTW, the MAXI Pad is available from EBay too. I just bougt one for $45 including shipping.
I just replaced the batteries in my '08 C-14 but I'm going to see if I can guess the right protocol so the new sensors will work on my Triumph Trophy.
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Hi. I just installed the programmable valve stems on my 2010 Concours14 and it worked like a charm. Thanks so much for figuring this out and posting it! :D
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Thanks for the great information. I replaced both sensors on my new to me 2012 connie. Works great!
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I just purchased the Autel TPMS Sensor. When installed on the rear wheel of my 2012 Concours, the sensor is not attached to the wheel in any manner EXCEPT by the valve stem nut. And the sensor sticks out quite a bit into the body of the tire. Am I mounting this correctly?
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Yup. That's correct. Works just fine.
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and at tyre change time, remove the nut and let the sensor drop inside out of harm's way to prevent it geting damaged during the process.
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and at tyre change time, remove the nut and let the sensor drop inside out of harm's way to prevent it geting damaged during the process.
Interesting idea. I was wondering how one would prevent damaging that sensor, since it sticks out so much, when the tire is removed. Of course, they are so inexpensive (in comparison), having a spare around is not unreasonable.
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I went with the Autel snap on sensor and just reached in and hooked it up after mounted the tire. Should come off the same way, pushing the release by hand
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Interesting idea. I was wondering how one would prevent damaging that sensor, since it sticks out so much, when the tire is removed. Of course, they are so inexpensive (in comparison), having a spare around is not unreasonable.
I have mine changed at a local shop and I just let them know it sticks out. They haven't broken it yet.
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Couldn’t be happier! Installed the Autel tpms sensor when rear tire changed last month. Ordered the programmer, which arrived today (eBay: $40). Followed directions found on this forum. Programmed the sensor and took it for a ride. Rode, and rode, and rode. No readout. Bummer. Reprogrammed using a 0 (zero) in the ID instead of an o (lower case O). Success!!! Many Thanks, in particular to Big Red, for all the great info!
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Modification added to initial post to explain that it is always a zero.
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Does the same TPMS work on newer year model of Concours 14 ? I have a 2016 Concours 14 and the front TPMS seems to be dying. It would come on for a while during a ride on a freeway and would go out for several minutes and would showed up again.
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I would think so. 2008-2009 had one style and from 2010 on they were different (I think). I believe you can interchange the new ones with the 1st gen bikes. If that's the case then I would think that the replacement Autel would work for all. Someone chime in if that isn't right please.
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Does the same TPMS work on newer year model of Concours 14 ? I have a 2016 Concours 14 and the front TPMS seems to be dying. It would come on for a while during a ride on a freeway and would go out for several minutes and would showed up again.
Yes it does. And thanks to some traction this has received on one of the facebook groups, I have an unconfirmed report that the late style TPMS has 5 digits. By adding three zeros to the front, you get the 8 digit hex code that works.
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Nice ! Thanks for the tips Big Red. I purchased the Autel MaxiTPMS pad. Is there any tips on reading the TPMS-id that is currently on the wheels ? I tried to wake up the rear wheel by spinning the wheel on the center stand by the Autel did not pick it up. :)
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You need to get the wheel up to 10Mph to activate the TPMS sensor. That is harder with the rear wheel because of weight and drag from the driveline.
It's easier to do it by putting the bike into gear and revving her a bit but be VERY careful that she doesn't come off the centerstand!!
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I did that yesterday by putting the bike on the center stand. I started the engine and put on the 2nd gear. The rear wheel spun for a while and an error on traction control showed up (I guess since the front wheel did not spin).I cannot change the menu once the error showed up on then console. >:(
I tried to read the TPMS from the MaxiTPMS by placing the pad next to the TPMS and it failed to read. I guess my only option is to remove the tire from the wheel and hope the TPMS ID is there. 8)
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I had my pad hooked up to my laptop and rode around my block until the pressure showed on the dash, then immediately pulled the value.
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I don't think the original Kawasaki sensors answer the "wake up" signal from the programmer.
You could do similar to Big Red's around the block method and have the laptop ready in the garage to read the sensors.
I could read one but the other wheel was too far drained to wake up so had to use the label on the sensor.
I did that yesterday by putting the bike on the center stand. I started the engine and put on the 2nd gear. The rear wheel spun for a while and an error on traction control showed up (I guess since the front wheel did not spin).I cannot change the menu once the error showed up on then console. >:(
I tried to read the TPMS from the MaxiTPMS by placing the pad next to the TPMS and it failed to read. I guess my only option is to remove the tire from the wheel and hope the TPMS ID is there. 8)
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Here's something interesting, some TPMS use a magnetic field to wake up for programming. Makes sense that the Autel MaxiPad gnerates a field but wonder if this schrader valve magnet would work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A42MZI/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
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Here's something interesting, some TPMS use a magnetic field to wake up for programming. Makes sense that the Autel MaxiPad gnerates a field but wonder if this schrader valve magnet would work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A42MZI/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Thanks guys. Will give it a shot. I did not have a chance to bring the bike out these few days. Should have some time this weekend to try it out. :)
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I ordered the magnet but it doesn't work on the Kawasaki sensors. Oh well got a cool magnet.
I did confirm the Autel MaxiTPMS Pad will read the new sensors thru the mounted tire, so you can mount the new sensors and then program them after reading the label on the old ones after tire mounting.
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Updates: I took the Connie out for a short ride this afternoon and I managed to read out the ID of the front sensor by placing the pad close to the valve stem.
I then used the ID to program to the new sensor. This evening, I was curious to see if the new sensor was programmed correctly. So, I started the engine and used the pad to wake up the sensor. In about 30 seconds, my bike picked up the signal and showed 0 PSI. :D
I was pretty stoked that this worked. The next thing to do is to remove the wheel and tire to replace the sensor.
Thanks again to Big Red, dbird29 and Boomer for your help and suggestions.
Thanks guys. Will give it a shot. I did not have a chance to bring the bike out these few days. Should have some time this weekend to try it out. :)
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I was able to find one of the Autel pads, now I need the sensors. i found these two styles, would either be acceptable?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285077060626
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394948523808
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The one with the rubber stem is not suitable in the long term because when tyres are to be replaced in the future the sensor needs to be unscrewed and allowed to drop inside out of harm's way.
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Thanks Freddy, great advice! I’ll go with your recommendation.
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I bought the same model with the silver cap. I purchased two as a spare in case the rear also needs to be replaced. ;D
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Note that the metal stem is longer than the newer Kaw sensors, which can be difficult to get air into unless the connector hose is flexible. Those with a double sided air chuck have been known to break those Kaw stems!!!
These may be handy to keep in the glove box.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/204141685162?hash=item2f87cae9aa:g:sfYAAOSwWuRjZJdi&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwDlhtrNY8F6KfeNyvW0I4UqrPrGShHWa8hLWlbkJ1PCGoerrE4bxPFlkk7reXhaWwindCrG6jW08QzNapP45MEpbrBg5MgjwRNfDNsPdEvc7o%2F%2Fv4mBhYY1tetZNZyIwCYEz7oqrVSrLya7Zajfv8XHqoSZv7YJ%2BcV7ZHmDyWNwsbM2GaRxpykMESg%2FA8Mu3HjsuVnDoGu1bULzLGskmAuRezh33oPcj2e5WBPEu39Z6CHSSkSUbixyXE48d6ldCHQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR46tiP_7Yg