Disclaimer: This is to show how I do an oil change. Please consult a professional for your oil changes. Do not attempt on your own as hot oil will burn and scald. You may also invalidate your warranty.

Firstly, here's the the toolset required. What's missing from the photo is the magnetic telescope rod that allows for easy retrieval of nuts and bolts



Also need an old towel as an oil rag



Any excuse to take the bike out and get it up to temperature. Oil is best removed when hot



Get it on the centre stand



The sump drain plug has moved on the newer models



Had to take care when removing the drain plug. The oil will squirt out. Did I mention its HOT?



Somewhere in that blackness is the plug. That oil is HOT. So I'll use my magnetic pickup tool to retrieve it



Here's a better view of the oil filter. Most of the time this is on tight. It should never be on that tight as it only should ever be torqued to 13 ft lbs. However, torquing it is hard, so most dealers over tighten. However, this can ruin the threads



I had to move the oi drain pan out of the way, so temporarily put the drain plug back in. Then applied the oil filter removal tool



Close up here. It really grips the oil filter



Now to appy some oil to the new filter before assembly





Reattach the new filter and hand tightened. Then grabbed the removal tool and tightened a touch more to make it nice and snug.



Replaced the old crush washer with new. Didn't have to do this as old one was fine, but the cost of a new one is a few pennies



Cleaned the silver area and applied a bit of oil. This is where the crush washer will mate



The sump plug needs to be torqued at 22ft lbs





So, oil has been drained, filter replaced, sump plug back on with new washer and all correcly tightened



And here is the oil I'm using. Yes, I know, I've gone for fully synthetic. I prefer using it once my bike has over 20k miles. The large container has 4L and the smaller 1L making 5L in total. To get the 4.7L in the bike, all the 4L container will be used, and 0.7L of the smaller container



The containers show the volume of oil in them which is handy. On the smaller one, I shall stop when I get to 300ml



Time to add the oil to the bike. Make sure you clean around the filler plug as there can be dirt and grime that may fall in





And what it looks like with the plug removed



Make sure the funnel is cleaned as well. I use mine for allsorts



And start pouring in the oil.



Replace the oil filler plug once all the oil from the 4L container plus 0.7L oil of the smaller container has been added



All the 4L container used. And only 0.7L of the smaller container used



Oil sump is nice and full. This should settle down once I go for a ride



But before I do, check, check and check again!



And after the ride that is pretty much perfect



Finally, get rid of the oil in a responsible manner



And that's how I do my oil changes. Doesn't take long

Quite comprehensive. Thanks for the writeup. What is the filter wrench you are using?

Quite comprehensive. Thanks for the writeup. What is the filter wrench you are using?

That would be this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Britool-E117117B-Belt-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0051HFZ9I

Most Excellent!   

Nice write-up!

One of the most important tools seems to be missing from your operation though...     

Where's the beer?

If you had included this very important tool you would have found that the draining of the hot oil isn't nearly as hazardous as it might have been without the beer. Once you get the bike back home after the warm up one must have a beer while the bike cools a bit. In my experience drinking one beer after getting the bike up on the center stand is the perfect amount of cool down time.   

 

And if you drank your beer too fast and you still got burned, well hell, at least you had a beer.

Lol, I had the music on if that counts.

Nice, very detailed write- up.

And that filter wrench looks great. A new twist on the old strap wrench. I have never seen anything like that in 'the colonies'. Maybe they will show up after we get more familiar with 'righty- tighty, lefty- loosey'. 

Thanks for posting that.

Brian

I found the disclaimer to be quite comical.

Thanks for this!  I was just preparing myself to do my first oil change myself (first two were done by the dealer, now it is my turn).  We just need the same writeup for changing the rear diff fluid and I will be set

Hijack...Max the rear diff is no problem. Make sure you can get the filler cap loose before you pull the drain plug and don't rotate the wheel when you refill.
Hijack off...

I don't have a center stand, I guess I'm screwed.

I don't have a center stand, I guess I'm screwed.

I do have a center stand still, but with the bike lowered, I can't get it on it alone, so I am screwed too
(I think I can do the "drive front wheel onto a board" trick though)

I have the top of my drain pan covered with a mesh screen, so I just drop the drain plug on to that. Saves having to fish around in hot oil.

I also rock the bike (carefully) back and forth/and sideways on the center stand while draining. Gets about another 200 ml of old oil out of the sump.   

Great description, Just forgot the case of beer when finished.

I have to ask about the oil you are using. It doesn't appear to be Motorcycle Oil. I looked at what is available and maybe you should be using:

Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 MC-Syn. This is specific for Motorcycle use with the wet clutches etc.

You may be getting rough gear changes etc with that oil.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Great description, Just forgot the case of beer when finished.

I have to ask about the oil you are using. It doesn't appear to be Motorcycle Oil. I looked at what is available and maybe you should be using:

Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 MC-Syn. This is specific for Motorcycle use with the wet clutches etc.

You may be getting rough gear changes etc with that oil.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Motorcycle specific oil is extremely overrated, I can assure you of that. There is a guy on the Stromtrooper forum with over 300K on his 1000 V-Strom......he uses Castrol 10W40 car oil and Fram oil filters exclusively.

I always change my oil with the engine cold. All the old oil is already in the crankcase. In a hot engine, some oil remains suspended in upper parts of engine, and hence escapes being drained. Plus, I never burn my hands with hot oil. Been doing this way on cars, trucks, boats, ATVs, lawnmowers, motorcycles for over 45 years. I highly recommend it!

Great description, Just forgot the case of beer when finished.

I have to ask about the oil you are using. It doesn't appear to be Motorcycle Oil. I looked at what is available and maybe you should be using:

Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 MC-Syn. This is specific for Motorcycle use with the wet clutches etc.

You may be getting rough gear changes etc with that oil.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Nope, definately motorbike oil

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fuchs-silkolene-10W-40-Synthetic-Motorbike/dp/B007AFH0E2

I Do mine cold also, doesn't really make a difference....
I also loosen the filler plug before pulling the drain plug...
and use this to catch the oil.... built in strainer top....

I always change my oil with the engine cold. All the old oil is already in the crankcase. In a hot engine, some oil remains suspended in upper parts of engine, and hence escapes being drained. Plus, I never burn my hands with hot oil. Been doing this way on cars, trucks, boats, ATVs, lawnmowers, motorcycles for over 45 years. I highly recommend it!

And I do a logical inbetween.  Run the engine for 5 min.  Hot enough to flow, not hot enough to be uncomfortable.