Author Topic: This forum is dead dead dead (Read 5922 times)

Uded2me · « **on:** June 10, 2012, 07:11:50 PM »

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T Cro ® · « **Reply #1 on:** June 10, 2012, 07:33:52 PM »

Check the for sale forum here..... There was a set free for the cost of shipping just the other day.

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=9082.0

RFH87_Connie · « **Reply #2 on:** June 11, 2012, 07:18:56 AM »

As T-Cro said - used is the best choice. Someone will have a cheap set. Post in the "Wanted" section. Don't forget to replace that front radiator hose behind the headers while you're in there. Its a perfect time to do it - and easy to get to. Maybe even the o-rings on the front cooling log too. Murphs has what you need.

Your 32 mpg or 700 miles might be your carbs need cleaning or at least check/reset the float levels. They might be too high - unless you drove 90mph the whole way.

Uded2me · « **Reply #3 on:** June 11, 2012, 08:50:05 AM »

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Summit670 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 11, 2012, 09:09:29 AM »

While in there, replace the o-rings that are on the front water pipe as well.

On the hole - if you can't find another set, maybe you could do one of the following:
- "wrap" that section with some galvanized sheet metal and on both sides use some exhaust header wrap to act as a gasket, then hose clamp it on. Probably could use header wrap around the entire section, covering the hole too, then clamp the metal wrap over that. Or, put a small galv patch piece loosely over hole, then wrap header wrap around the whole area, then secure the ends of the wrap and put a couple hose clamps directly over the repaired area.

- an exhaust pipe place could probably match the size dia pretty close and have them weld a short section in to repair

- cut that section out and cap it off. Not sure what that would do for performance but others on here will hopefully know how detrimental this may be.

Boomer · « **Reply #5 on:** June 11, 2012, 09:54:41 AM »

If you want to go the permanent fix route then ya need the Motad Stainless Steel Headers.
http://motad.co.uk/product.php?prod=GTR1000%2C+ZG1000+A1-A14+Downpipes+%26+Collector+Unit.
There is a US importer but I can't remember who it is.
They will cost approx $340 + shipping.

You will struggle to repair your headers.
You might manage it but it will hole through elsewhere quite quickly.

If you manage to get a half decent used set of headers, make sure that you brush all the loose rust off and then paint all the rusted sections with Rust Remedy or similar. When you first fire the bike up it will smell bad but that soon burns off.
This won't protect them forever but will double the life of the headers.

Uded2me · « **Reply #6 on:** June 11, 2012, 01:01:39 PM »

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RFH87_Connie · « **Reply #7 on:** June 11, 2012, 01:35:12 PM »

Most of the time that type of rust is non-repairable. It quite often starts from the inside and works to the outside. It leaves nothing to work with as far as welding a patch or even cutting it back to add a cap. Spend your time looking for a used set. My opinion on the picture given is that any repair made will be short lived given outside storage and all season riding. They don't go for a whole lot of money. I think shipping cost is around $25 to $40.

Uded2me · « **Reply #8 on:** June 11, 2012, 01:59:17 PM »

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RFH87_Connie · « **Reply #9 on:** June 11, 2012, 02:23:07 PM »

Rust never sleeps.

Short trip riding is the worst as condensation forms and doesn't dry down inside the exhaust. The small hole is there to help eject the excess water that forms. The rest of it needs to evaporate and go out the pipe. Also not good on the oil. Cold weather makes this condition worse. A cover on your bike will help keep the air temp change slower (the faster the change the more condensation that forms) thus reducing the condensation that forms when not riding. Somewhere along the way I thought that I learned warm steel rusts faster than cool steel. Weather it is the potential higher humidity or warmth promotes more rapid oxidization, I don't know (I sure some one else may find some and let us know soon).

As for prevention, have a known good set coated by professionals (Jethot or HPC, etc). Otherwise, eliminate short trips where possible. I don't think regular hi-temp paint really holds up well on headers especially if the bike is stored outside. It may even flake and trap water making it worse than using nothing. I would also think that wrapping them would make your situation worse related to rust.

These are of course my opinions (I've stored bikes outside a lot but now have a garage), YMMV.

Uded2me · « **Reply #10 on:** June 11, 2012, 02:44:40 PM »

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enim57 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 11, 2012, 09:34:05 PM »

That tube is fixable. Cut it back to sound metal which probably means cutting out half way around the pipe (180 degrees) and all the way back to the welds then TIG weld, or braze weld in a new section to suit. MIG welding may also be suitable depending on welder skill, welding machine, and steel thickness. If you want it to last longer have the new section made from stainless steel, grade 304 is sufficient.

Regards, Russell

PS Looked at it again, welding a complete new section of pipe (or tube?) is probably an easier option. The pipe does not have to be exactly the same diameter.

Uded2me · « **Reply #12 on:** June 11, 2012, 10:29:10 PM »

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enim57 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 12, 2012, 12:42:14 AM »

I can't be much help with this as I'm in Australia. A company/person who fabricates and welds light steel or pipe/tube is what you want. Just had a thought - an exhaust replacement and/or repair centre would be ideal. They should have pipe in the required size and the ability to weld it. If you go with stainless steel they should be OK with that also as most cars have stainless steel exhausts nowdays.

Regards, Russell

RFH87_Connie · « **Reply #14 on:** June 12, 2012, 06:49:48 AM »

Like Russell said, if you want to give it a go (I'd give it a good inspection to see how much metal is left even after cuuting away a good amount). In my area (Northern VA) I would say to look up your "local" welder and give him a call and tell him you could bring the piece to him. Some bike shops (most) farm out some or all of the welding to a local and could probably point you in his direction. Depending on the welders skill (good or bad) he'll tell you if he can fix it or not and what the cost would be. My local welder charges $70 minimum (per hour) if he works on it, and that's always been the total cost no higher (he supplied the metal from scrap he had on hand).

Give him a sob story that's its your only transportation and you borrowed the truck bring it to him.

RFH87_Connie · « **Reply #15 on:** June 12, 2012, 10:48:21 AM »

Looks like you might have found some used ones?

Uded2me · « **Reply #16 on:** June 12, 2012, 11:33:38 AM »

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RFH87_Connie · « **Reply #17 on:** June 12, 2012, 11:38:04 AM »

Remove the lower plastic, cut off the cross over piece so you have 4 independent pipes so it sounds like a harley going down the road. Don't forget - loud pipes save lives! You'll be saving everyone you pass.

Or you could send them to the recycler. They make great pot metal.

Uded2me · « **Reply #18 on:** June 12, 2012, 12:32:25 PM »

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Lodogg2221 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 12, 2012, 04:48:27 PM »

Did you find a set?
If not PM me.

As far as headers, no way in heck Id spend $400 on a set of stainless headers when the headers we have are stainless, except for the lowermost portion.
I had mine ceramic coated, and should never have issues with anything like this. My other set is in the attic.
I was originally hoping for some heat reduction (didnt get any appreciable heat reductions outside), but just the surface rust bothered me too, so it was $100 well spent in that regard. Factor in the cost of the other set of headers so I wouldnt be down long, at $35 shipped, and you can get 3 sets for the cost of ONE set of those stainless headers....and they will last every bit as long.

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Author Topic: This forum is dead dead dead (Read 5922 times)

enim57

enim57