Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Pfloydgad on May 26, 2012, 09:54:11 AM
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OK....just wondering how the masses feel about this engine oil weight.
Not that i have used it, yet, but I found a very nice semi-synthetic high mileage blend at the local autozone. Hey Baby is 11 yrs in and has a little over 83k on her. I have screened the last 5 oil changes and have not found anything at all as far as shavings or debris.
Those oil changes cover almost the last 20k miles. I know Mama Kaw doesn't recommend it, any ideas on this considering the age ang state of my motor. Inquiring minds would like to know.
Stay cool this weekend, and ride safe.
Greg
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I would strongly suspect that that oil is "energy conserving", or something to that effect. This means it has friction modifiers. The friction modifiers will ruin your clutch. Use 10w40 as the minimum for viscosity.
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I always try and find 15/40 when I can but I run 10/40 as a minimum rule. I ran 20/50 Castrol GTX for years with zero issues before switching to the Purple stuff.
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Well, if you arent having issues, why use a high mileage oil?
I wouldnt in a motorcycle just for the simple fact it has other additives in it that could affect the wet clutch, besides being energy conserving.
The older an engine gets, its usually advised to run a thicker oil for consumption issues...but if yours aint usin it, run what the factory recommends.
Or, if you must use 5w30, make sure its not energy conserving, and stick to regular oil, not high mileage or synthetic (every synthetic Ive ever seen in 5w30 is EC).
I personally like either Shell Rotella T or Mobil 1 TDT oil in 5W40.
I used to use Mobil 1 10W40 4T but two quarts of it cost as much as 4 of the others, and it doesnt have any significant attributes to be worth the cost to me.
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I'd only run 10--30 in winter in the north, otherwise, I'd run at least 40 as recommended. Make sure the 10-30 isn't starburst rated as energy conserving.
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Shell Rotella T all the way Bay-beeee!
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5w is too thin for the gears in the transmission.
You need to have 'shear additives' for the transmission.
You need high zinc content for the cams.
You cannot 'look' at your oil and say 'it is good'. You have to send it out to be analyzed (Blackstone)
If you can actually see metal specs its too late. Damage is already being done.
You do not want friction modifiers or you will ruin your clutch.
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Shell Rotella T all the way Bay-beeee!
+1 Shell Rotella T6 5W40.
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I'd only run 10--30 in winter in the north....
Why would you do that? You gain absolutely nothing and in fact lose the viscosity modifiers that help hold your oil to a higher weight when hot. Your 10W30 starts as a 10 weight and has viscosity modifiers added to make the oil "think" or behave as though it were a 30 weight oil when hot whereas a 10W40 starts as the same 10 weight oil and has more viscosity modifiers added than the 30 weight oil does so that this oil "thinks" or behaves as a 40 weight oil when hot. Please keep in mind that is is these viscosity modifiers that we need extra of in our oils as the meshing of the gears in our transmissions is what "chops" up the viscosity modifiers breaks down the oil and makes the bike shift poorly. Viscosity Modifiers are like long curly strands in our oil that when cold are pulled up nice and tight to keep the oil thin enough to flow when cold but yet uncoil and expand when hot and this is what keeps the oil from being as thin as water when hot.
Stick to what the factory calls for..... Myself I run a Mobil One 15W50 year round and yes I live in MI.... Better living through modern chemistry!
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OK....just wondering how the masses feel about this engine oil weight.
Not that i have used it, yet, but I found a very nice semi-synthetic high mileage blend at the local autozone. Hey Baby is 11 yrs in and has a little over 83k on her. I have screened the last 5 oil changes and have not found anything at all as far as shavings or debris.
Those oil changes cover almost the last 20k miles. I know Mama Kaw doesn't recommend it, any ideas on this considering the age ang state of my motor. Inquiring minds would like to know.
Stay cool this weekend, and ride safe.
Greg
5W30 is too thin of an oil for an aging motor that was designed to be run on 10W40 or thicker; you will lose some oil pressure by going to a thinner weight of oil and please bear in mind that all your crankshaft is riding on is a microscopically thick hydraulic wedge of oil when the engine is at speed. Thus when you lose overall oil pressure you are running a higher risk of loss of wedge and making metal to metal contact while at speed. The Babbitt or thin bearing layer on our plain bearing is only there for start up and with oils having less and less zinc content today you have even less between you and metal to metal contact.
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I don't know about which particular oil to use. I have used both Rotella T6 and Mobil 1. I care not a whit about energy conserving. Back when I got my Nighthawk I was concerned about it, but between that bike and the Connie I have found that it has had no effect on the clutch. Maybe If I were drag racing it might be an issue but thus far I have had no slippage. I am currently running Mobil 1.
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Thanks all for the input. I only read the bottle and was wondering if it could be an alternitive oil.
I was concerned with the 5 weight being just to thin for the gears.
I think I will stick to my Rotella T 10w40, it hasn't failed me yet.
Thanks again, and please ride safe all.
Greg 8)
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Why would you do that? You gain absolutely nothing and in fact lose the viscosity modifiers that help hold your oil to a higher weight when hot. Your 10W30 starts as a 10 weight and has viscosity modifiers added to make the oil "think" or behave as though it were a 30 weight oil when hot whereas a 10W40 starts as the same 10 weight oil and has more viscosity modifiers added than the 30 weight oil does so that this oil "thinks" or behaves as a 40 weight oil when hot. Please keep in mind that is is these viscosity modifiers that we need extra of in our oils as the meshing of the gears in our transmissions is what "chops" up the viscosity modifiers breaks down the oil and makes the bike shift poorly. Viscosity Modifiers are like long curly strands in our oil that when cold are pulled up nice and tight to keep the oil thin enough to flow when cold but yet uncoil and expand when hot and this is what keeps the oil from being as thin as water when hot.
Stick to what the factory calls for..... Myself I run a Mobil One 15W50 year round and yes I live in MI.... Better living through modern chemistry!
I agree. Thanks for clarifying that. I don't run 30, I was just saying if you must, but I agree on the W designation and what it means.
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Mobil 15W 50? The text on bottle now states uses zinc to conserve energy. Thought zinc modifiers were bad for bikes?
The API ROUNDEL does NOT say "Energy Conserving".
Use Mobil 1 10W 40 4T MotorCycle.
Up til now considered 15W 50 a good alternative?!
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Mobil 15W 50? The text on bottle now states uses zinc to conserve energy. Thought zinc modifiers were bad for bikes?
The API ROUNDEL does NOT say "Energy Conserving".
Use Mobil 1 10W 40 4T MotorCycle.
Up til now considered 15W 50 a good alternative?!
Does it actually say "Energy Conserving" on the starburst label? Id bet not...
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Hey Ziggy STARBURST!!
The API ROUNDEL does NOT say "Energy Conserving".
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Mobil 15W 50? The text on bottle now states uses zinc to conserve energy. Thought zinc modifiers were bad for bikes?
The API ROUNDEL does NOT say "Energy Conserving".
Use Mobil 1 10W 40 4T MotorCycle.
Up til now considered 15W 50 a good alternative?!
Zinc is the good stuff that has been largely reduced or eliminated in car oils.
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From Mobil:
Question:
What's the Zinc Level Mobil 1 15W-50?
Hello, I read your answer about ZDDP and phosphorus levels. You even list the phosphorus level in your table, but you show no listing for the level of zinc. Other oil companies also list their zinc level. I would like to know the zinc content in your 15W-50 oil. I would like the level for the gold cap and the silver cap separately. I drive a car that is over 20 years old and the answer is important to me. Thank you, Jerry
-- Jerry Baer, Hollywood, FL
Answer:
The important element here is the phosphorus since it is the active antiwear additive. That's why we show phosphorus as well as zinc. The zinc content is in the range of 0.12 - 0.13 weight percent (1200 - 1300 ppm). (Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 [gold cap] was discontinued about May 2009.)
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Interesting..............
I found this on a diesel truck site, so they sound about the same.
" I e-mailed Shell and asked what the levels of zinc and phosphorus are for the 15W-40 Rotella T with Triple Protection. The answer:
"Shell Rotella T Multigrade Oil SAE 15W-40 with Triple Protection Technology, our API CJ-4/SM specification product, typically contains about 1200 ppm zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorous as manufactured."
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Mobil 15W 50? The text on bottle now states uses zinc to conserve energy. Thought zinc modifiers were bad for bikes?
The API ROUNDEL does NOT say "Energy Conserving".
Use Mobil 1 10W 40 4T MotorCycle.
Up til now considered 15W 50 a good alternative?!
Not quite; you have your info mixed up... Zinc/Phosphorous Extreme Pressure Additive or ZDDP is a last resort protection against metal-to-metal contact but is not friendly with Catalytic Converters so it is been all but removed from most oils. Oil with higher levels of this compound are GOOD....
Energy Conserving oils have Friction Modifiers can/may be bad for your clutch plates. These are BAD....
Viscoisity Improver's are long chain polymers that look like a corkscrew under the microscope and are used to build your oil up to its higher weight; again these are GOOD....
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When refiners cut ZDDP (zinc) levels due to EPA regs to compensate they increased molybdenum (moly) levels. The added moly is what is bad for wet clutches.
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When refiners cut ZDDP (zinc) levels due to EPA regs to compensate they increased molybdenum (moly) levels. The added moly is what is bad for wet clutches.
No, they dont. Very few do. Some use higher quality base oils instead.
And, the moly isnt (in and of itself) whats bad for clutches, if it were, we would all have issues, as every oil has moly in it as part of an additive package.
BTW, if moly were bad, ZDDP works just as good or better, for a LOT less money to protect metal by making stuff slippery, so why doesnt high levels of that additive cause problems? Because there isnt enough of it there to cause an issue.
Friction modifiers are whats bad....and they too are part of an additive package, but the way you know its bad is that little "energy conserving" warning on the label.
If it doesnt have it, its fine for use in a wet clutch application. Period.
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The moly is the friction modifier! They INCREASED the moly content when zinc was reduced. This was cussed and discussed all over the net years ago.
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DAMN!!! Another oil thread. :banghead:
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I still like my oil better than yours :P
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DAMN!!! Another oil thread. :banghead:
Kinda feels like winter. That seems like when the tire/oil threads brew their ugly head
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Just wanted to see if anyone WHO USES Mobil 1 15W 50 had noticed the wording on the back of Mobil 1 15w 50 bottle had changed.
Did this mean the 15W 50 had been reformulated?
If so was it still a good choice for those who use it?
I know it is a popular synthetic for C-10's.
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You see, this is why I use Royal Purple automotive synthetic, that way I don't have any of these issues.
:stirpot:
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You see, this is why I use Royal Purple automotive synthetic, that way I don't have any of these issues.
:stirpot:
What issues? :popcorn: :stirpot: :hitfan:
BTW We use RP Synthetic Hydraulic Oil here at work on board ship in our steering and variable pitch propellers as while it is not a "veggie" base oil it is so pure that it has little if any affect on marine life if it leaks out. Plus it "coats" all metal with a stick protective surface (snot) and as it tends to be slightly solvent by nature the insides of our systems are spotlessly clean.
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For all the oil info you can stand:
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles (http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles)
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I used oil once.
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I saw Rotela T6 5w-40 at Wally World. I think I am going to buy it next time.
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+1 Shell Rotella T6 5W40.
Another +1. Love the stuff, smooth shifts, good for wide temp ranges (for those of us that ride in cooler weather as well as warmer), makes the bike feel sexier, etc.
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What do we all think about Castrol Acteva X-tra 4t 10w40 part synthetic motorcycle oil? Any reason not to use it besides the $30 a gal. price tag?
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Another +1. Love the stuff, smooth shifts, good for wide temp ranges (for those of us that ride in cooler weather as well as warmer), makes the bike feel sexier, etc.
Agree. I noticed that when I switched to Rotella last year, shifts were noticeably smoother.
I recently swapped to the purple stuff because it was on sale and couldn't distinguish any difference in shift "smoothness". Both oils shift great!
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I've used Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 since they came out with it, my Connie is a 1990 with 52,000 on it. I drove truck for 34 years, when synthetic oil first came out it was pitched as better because of it's ability to prolong drain intervals (25,000+ miles is common) and to take the heat of diesel engines. Since it's doubtful any of us will ever let our oil go that long I think we're good with it. I live in New York State and my bike shifts smooth as butter, shows no wear on the cams and works well whether it's 40 degrees F or 95 degrees F.
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OK....just wondering how the masses feel about this engine oil weight.
Not that i have used it, yet, but I found a very nice semi-synthetic high mileage blend at the local autozone. Hey Baby is 11 yrs in and has a little over 83k on her. I have screened the last 5 oil changes and have not found anything at all as far as shavings or debris.
Those oil changes cover almost the last 20k miles. I know Mama Kaw doesn't recommend it, any ideas on this considering the age ang state of my motor. Inquiring minds would like to know.
Stay cool this weekend, and ride safe.
Greg
I used oil once.
I think both of ya were at the Marietta ride a few years back....I know someone who "centerstanded" my 86 barefotted....
and following that, I recall the harrumphing..and muttering, about how my 86 was the best sounding one thy all had heard....prior to my owning TouchOfGray Clyde used Honda oil for 98k miles... I ran the last 40k on it with Castrol GTX 10/40 and 20/50, depending on season.... it purred, and shifted correctly.
JMHO
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Call me silly, but I run whatever SAE certified dino 10-40 I can find...if the motor makes it 10yrs and 100K, I'll be happy with that and consider I've gotten my $$ out of it. (05 model)
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Call me silly, but I run whatever SAE certified dino 10-40 I can find...if the motor makes it 10yrs and 100K, I'll be happy with that and consider I've gotten my $$ out of it. (05 model)
Dont use energy conserving. Your motor might make but your clutch will not.
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Call me silly, but I run whatever SAE certified dino 10-40 I can find...if the motor makes it 10yrs and 100K, I'll be happy with that and consider I've gotten my $$ out of it. (05 model)
I won't call you silly. That's what I used for 90,000 miles and for the last 10,000 miles I used Rotella 15-w40. Had to replace a water pump a few thousand miles ago but engine is still great!! ;D
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I have never had any problems on any of my bikes (1992 750 Nighthawk and 2002 Connie) using standard automotive oil, either dino or synthetic, that had energy conserving on label. Of course I don't drag race and maybe that is where I would see the problem.
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Oh well, I guess I'll throw in...
Every oil I have tried makes my bike shift like butter at first but then gets notchy after a few hundred miles. The only oil that shifts like butter until the next oil change is Mobil 1 5w-40 Synthetic Turbo Deisel Truck. I figure whatever the others oils stop doing, this oil keeps on doing so I'm sticking with it.
Anyway, that's my experience.
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I completely agree on the notchy stuff. I might have to give that oil a try.
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I completely agree on the notchy stuff. I might have to give that oil a try.
I've run Mobil 1 15W50 Full Synthetic Oil year round for years and I find that the shifting remains smooth from oil change to oil change...
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TCro doesn't know Jack S**t about oil or much of anything else but he does keep Corona beer in the fridge!! ;D :chugbeer: :chugbeer:
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I have never had any problems on any of my bikes (1992 750 Nighthawk and 2002 Connie) using standard automotive oil, either dino or synthetic, that had energy conserving on label. Of course I don't drag race and maybe that is where I would see the problem.
So most likely you are using improper weight oil in at least the Connie as it specs 10-40.
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So most likely you are using improper weight oil in at least the Connie as it specs 10-40.
When Kawasaki wrote the spec prior to 1986 a 50wt multigrade oil probably didn't exist. 15wt is ok if ambient temperature is above -10C, 10wt is suitable for -20C. I have seen many charts showing 5W-30 is not suitable for temperatures above 30C.
I use Motul 5100 10W-50 in both my bikes, it works very well.
Regards, Russell
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TCro doesn't know Jack S**t about oil or much of anything else but he does keep Corona beer in the fridge!! ;D :chugbeer: :chugbeer:
As well as Oberon, Round Barn, Green Bush, Stella, and Bud Light for a friend.
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When Kawasaki wrote the spec prior to 1986 a 50wt multigrade oil probably didn't exist. 15wt is ok if ambient temperature is above -10C, 10wt is suitable for -20C. I have seen many charts showing 5W-30 is not suitable for temperatures above 30C.
I use Motul 5100 10W-50 in both my bikes, it works very well.
Regards, Russell
Russell, 50 wt meets specs. The post I quoted stated "energy conserving" oil. By and large, energy conserving oils are 10W30 or THINNER.
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As well as Oberon, Round Barn, Green Bush, Stella, and Bud Light for a friend.
Round Barn???? What is it brewed from and is the flavor best when served warm?
Is it better than 10W40? In keeping with the theme of this thread. ::)
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Russell, 50 wt meets specs. The post I quoted stated "energy conserving" oil. By and large, energy conserving oils are 10W30 or THINNER.
You're right. I've never bothered to read the workshop manual about this before as I've always used oil with the highest and lowest range I could find. The manual specifies 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50.
I wouldn't use a 30wt oil although back in the really "olden" days straight 30wt was all that was used, and still is in stationary engines. Also in the past modifiers were added to make "friction modified" oil (proven to be bad for wet clutches) but I don't know if it is still done. Maybe "energy conserving" is thinner oil and "friction modified" is thicker oil with a slippery substance added.
Regards, Russell
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Rule of thumb- anything with the high number under 40 is a friction modifier oil-has added moly which will coat wet clutch plates.
Example:
10W30-energy conserving.
10W40-ok.
I understand there are a few brands of 10W40 with the added moly that do not have the energy conserving "starburst" on the label.
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When Kawasaki wrote the spec prior to 1986 a 50wt multigrade oil probably didn't exist. 15wt is ok if ambient temperature is above -10C, 10wt is suitable for -20C. I have seen many charts showing 5W-30 is not suitable for temperatures above 30C.
I use Motul 5100 10W-50 in both my bikes, it works very well.
Regards, Russell
Sunoco and Arco were both selling 20w-50 in 1975....I used a lot of it.
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Sunoco and Arco were both selling 20w-50 in 1975....I used a lot of it.
Yep already acknowleged that I was wrong. See my post (No 50) above.
Regards, Russell
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I guess I'm missing out on something with all these high end oils...
I run whatever SAE certified 10/40 dino I can get (usually Penziol) and change it once a year - (8-10K miles).
As an Air Cooled VW enthusiast, I find the fact that the oil remains IN THE ENGINE on the Connie a refreshing novelty :thumbs: and dont think about it other than that one cold evening per year when I change it...
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I guess I'm missing out on something with all these high end oils...
I run whatever SAE certified 10/40 dino I can get (usually Penziol) and change it once a year - (8-10K miles).
As an Air Cooled VW enthusiast, I find the fact that the oil remains IN THE ENGINE on the Connie a refreshing novelty :thumbs: and dont think about it other than that one cold evening per year when I change it...
Yes I understand that. In my last job oil from industrial machinery (admittedly not engines) was analysed reguarly and it lasted a whole lot longer than most expected. I know of people who rarely changed oil in their cars which were used every day and the cars ran for decades without problem. My wifes diesel car oil change interval is yearly or 15000km.
We are probably a bit too precious with our toys.
Regards, Russell
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My 1990 Toyota 4x4 truck has 360,000 miles on it. I changed the Castrol straight 30wt every 3,000 miles.
There's two ways to figure this:
1) I spent a lot of money on oil, but the engine is still strong and runs great. It will burn about 1 quart every 1,000 miles but so what?
2) I probably could have never changed the oil, and by now the engine would be shot and I could have put that same amount of money into a long block, and I'd have a new engine.
Personally I'd rather change oil than engines.
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OK, I'll add my own experience to this thread-that-will-not-die.
I just changed out some Rotella T6 5Wsomething - you know, the diesel stuff. I put in Royal Purple 10W40
Oh my flippin' gawd !!
It's beautiful.
OK, so I didn't listen clearly enough to the "5W is too thin" admonitions, but it was fine for a while, getting a bit difficult in changes eventually, and just a little roughness at higher speed/torque that just didn't seem right. So probably the step up to 10W (duh!) is probably a strong component, and an oil change to anything fresh is going to be good, but after putting in three bottles of purple in Minnesota, then driving the 360 miles to Rockford that stuff has got itself everywhere it needs to be. Damn, it's so good I'm thinking of trying it out on the wife next time ...
Changes are smoother, pulling away is smooth and spritely (I don't even want to know what I was doing to my gears with the other stuff - this is like an engine recon), and she is smoother than I ever remember (the Connie, that is, not the wife). I find myself at 75 before I even know it.
I'll try some Mobile one next time, but I'm going to be hard to convince that this Royal Purple simply isn't the best. It's the same price in my local store ($10.99 a quart).
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Any decent synth will be buttery smooth... I've never had issues w/ Mobil1 MC oil, Mobil1 Auto oil, Motul MC oil, Castrol Auto oil, Kawasaki MC oil. I'm sure any of those will run just as good as RP, scAmsoil.
I've run scAmsoil Auto oil(a case free to me!), no different than any of the above synth's.
But my MC's FAVORITE is....
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1521/a4333ea88f40030a0bb611d.jpg)
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I'm currently waiting for a report from Blackstone Lab on Rotella 15W40 dyno oil that ran for 6500 miles. I sampled at 4k mi and it was still good, viscosity, additives, wear issues.
My favorite oil:
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRf0Sd1OrSNgcQwpGDkWBnugkG9Z4f-wJJEqSdYRwfQty_B6slmHg)
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So... that's... your wife, then, Steve?
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So... that's... your wife, then, Steve?
Not mine, just an image from the inter-webs.
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I'm gonna try to attach a file of a recent Blackstone report. The Rotella dyno oil had 6500 miles on it, they recommended I extend to 8000 miles on the next change.
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Thanks Steve. Can you give us a general idea what kind of riding was done in the 6500 miles?
Interstate, highways, city
Speedy or regular riding/rpms
What oil filter brand and was it cartridge or spin-on
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Thanks Steve. Can you give us a general idea what kind of riding was done in the 6500 miles?
Interstate, highways, city
Speedy or regular riding/rpms
What oil filter brand and was it cartridge or spin-on
The oil had about 1100 miles of commuting, 12 each way. I take it easy in the am as it is dark out, but I'm not afraid to let 'er sing on the way home, two lane rural.
5400 miles on a trip, probably about 25-3000 mi upper 70's loaded with camping gear, the rest except for about 150 miles of twisties, was about 60-70mph thru two lane in Ontario. About 1000 miles of slab was at 90 degrees++.
Cart filter, K&N, from Murphs', of course.
I'm using the Rotella syn this time. I intend to sample it at 8k miles and see if there's a difference.
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Question for you guys.
My bike has 11,000 miles on it and has always been run with Castrol full synthetic 10w 40.
I also have an 81 VW diesel Rabbit pick up using Rotella 15w 40 dino and it would be handy and a heck of a lot cheaper to use the same in the bike also.
When you switch from synthetic to dino, do you change the oil at a very short interval again to get rid of traces of the synthetic or is that a non issue?
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Question for you guys.
My bike has 11,000 miles on it and has always been run with Castrol full synthetic 10w 40.
I also have an 81 VW diesel Rabbit pick up using Rotella 15w 40 dino and it would be handy and a heck of a lot cheaper to use the same in the bike also.
When you switch from synthetic to dino, do you change the oil at a very short interval again to get rid of traces of the synthetic or is that a non issue?
No issue whatsoever...
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No issue whatsoever...
Thanks for the info.
"The Boss", drives an 05 Corolla and there was some chatter in those forums about changing from synth. to dino causing the oil to congeal in passages. Sounded pretty bogus to me.
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I've run Mobil 1 15W50 Full Synthetic Oil year round for years and I find that the shifting remains smooth from oil change to oil change...
I have never had smooth shifting from my Connie. I think it is just the nature of some bikes. The smoothest I get is when accelerating and shifting about above 4k rpm.
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So most likely you are using improper weight oil in at least the Connie as it specs 10-40.
Yeah, and? The specs from my manual say 10w-40, I am using 5w-40. No biggie and the 5w provides easier starting and the oil is quicker to get to the parts.
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Yeah? The OP axed about 5W30 oil. Not 5W40.
And 5W30 will have the friction modifiers said to harm wet clutches.
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And yet I have never had a problem with any of my clutches using oil with friction modifiers. Indeed, reports I have seen show that most people have not had issues using those kinds of oil. It appears to be a minority in that regard.
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And yet I have never had a problem with any of my clutches using oil with friction modifiers. Indeed, reports I have seen show that most people have not had issues using those kinds of oil. It appears to be a minority in that regard.
I had problems with an XS750 triple, thought I would put in thinner, i.e. 5w30, oil for the cold months while living in MN. It did not work out so well. It also messed up the starter clutch. It had a kick start, that saved the day.
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Are you saying that you were using energy conserving oil and went with a lower viscosity oil and then had the problem?
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Mobil 1, 5w 30, 60k, never a problem year round in Houston. Works for me, to each, his own. :)
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If you used 5-30 from new and esecially in a hot climate and had an engine problem I doubt Kawaski would honor the warranty.
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How would they know?
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If you used 5-30 from new and esecially in a hot climate and had an engine problem I doubt Kawaski would honor the warranty.
Kawasaki has never been consumer friendly.
This is a forum to share ideas and information.
I'm not trying to convince anyone, it works for me.
I believe in 10 psi per 1k rpm up to about 50 and then you'll wash out the bearings.
As long as the oil is not too thin while hot, I'm good.
I've also run AmsOil in 2 cycles at 128 to 1 without ash build up, heat or maintenance. Al Unser was using it at 200 to 1. I wasn't that brave.
Only the lead sled dog has a good view.
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Nor am I trying to convince anyone. I am stating what the factory says to use.
There are some bikes out there which call for 10-60 and you had better use it or...boom!
Big K also says 6k between valve adjustments but most go 10k, right?
I never had a problem with warranty service with Kawasaki. Two sets of wheel bearings and a water pump.
How would they know?
Take an engine in for a suspected lubrication failure and the oil gets sent to a lab, I ga ron tee.
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If you used 5-30 from new and esecially in a hot climate and had an engine problem I doubt Kawaski would honor the warranty.
Not really an issue for a C10 as the bikes ceased production in 2006, warranties have expired.
Regards, Russell
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Hey, don't muddle this up facts. :thumbs:
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Well, no kidding.
It would apply to any bike made today though.
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Well, no kidding.
It would apply to any bike made today though.
But this is a forum for C10 only.
Regards, Russell
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So. Your point?
If you would have had engine problems when the bike was new Kawaski likely would likely have denied the claim for using the incorrect oil.
That would hold true today on any new bike. People here who own C10s may have other bikes.
Now, any other problems?
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So. Your point?
If you would have had engine problems when the bike was new Kawaski likely would likely have denied the claim for using the incorrect oil.
That would hold true today on any new bike. People here who own C10s may have other bikes.
Now, any other problems?
I don't have a problem, strange you perceive that, but it's all with you.
Opinions that don't relate to the bike or aren't relevant to the topic don't assist those looking for help.
As for owners with other bikes - I'm one of them. But to get valuable information I go to websites specfic for that bike.
Have a nice day.
Regards, Russell
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But you didn't have to go elsewhere, you got it here.
That's the beauty of it.
Ain't it nice?
The info appplied to the C10 when it was in production and using the proper oil is even more valid today now that it isn't.
I see no problem with good advice.
If you don't see it as good then it's on you.
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I cannot learn about an unrelated bike from this website, that's ridiculous.
I think most of us on this site are grown up enough to understand warranty conditions. Mentioning warranty issues is not valid for the C10 or any of my bikes. It's not good advice in either case - just talk.
Our discussion has taken up too much space already and I know most understand my point. I have more productive things to do with my time so I'm leaving this discussion here.
Enjoy yourself.
Regards, Russell
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If you cannot learn anything about other bikes here that is your problem. If you feel too much time has been wasted, that's on you. You chose to do so.
Get over yourself.
Regards.
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If you cannot learn anything about other bikes here that is your problem. If you feel too much time has been wasted, that's on you. You chose to do so.
Get over yourself.
Regards.
Let it go! I think we all heard enough.
Thanks ;D