Are these the correct Fuji-lok nuts?

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ91133?N=0&Ntt=fuji+lok&Ntk=All&Ne=&fitment=1&brand=0&results=100&refinement_search=1

YES, this is the correct link and Fuji nuts (8mm).  I can say for sure since I saved this link off the old forum last year and I got a set.  They are the final fix for this issue!   

YES, this is the correct link and Fuji nuts (8mm).  I can say for sure since I saved this link off the old forum last year and I got a set.  They are the final fix for this issue!   

THX for the info!

Took the lower fairings off (first time!!), unbolted horn and loosened air dam, removed the top radiator bolts, reached all bolts with 1/4" inch 12 mm ratchet and ratchet wrench. Put the Fuji Lock nuts after hardware run for washers to put on with them. Probably 90 minutes, not bad........ I appreciate the help!!
Getting up early tomorrow to ride....... no rain in Ohio for a change.........

Z

Took the lower fairings off (first time!!), unbolted horn and loosened air dam, removed the top radiator bolts, reached all bolts with 1/4" inch 12 mm ratchet and ratchet wrench. Put the Fuji Lock nuts after hardware run for washers to put on with them. Probably 90 minutes, not bad........ I appreciate the help!!
Getting up early tomorrow to ride....... no rain in Ohio for a change.........

Z

I am a basic backyard mechanic and don't do a lot of motorcycle mechanical work, but you made it sound so easy, I think I am going to try it next week.   I always envision starting something, getting stuck and then what?  Calling a tow truck.    I am going to give it a try.

I found it easiest to remove lower plastic, remove just the lower bolt holding the rad in place and loosen the top rad bolt so it can swing forward. Now when tightening the hard to get to center nuts, use ¼ drive ratchet and enough extensions to reach from under, yes under the header. It helps if your extensions have a swivel end.

Taking the painted plastic off and removing the radiator bolts to push it towards the front wheel makes it pretty easy to get to the bolts with no extensions, Watched Fred's videos once and it made the plastic easy.... http://www.angelridevideos.com/concours.html

You can get to all 8 header bolts just by taking the side fairings off if you use one of these with a 12mm, 1/4" drive socket. Available at Home Depot for something like $16 and a great tool for tight spaces with either sockets or hex bits.



Brian

I've read some go as far as taking the radiator out and others got there with 1/4 extensions and swivels? It's raining, again, so I think it's time......

where do I get the Fuji locknuts?

Fiji Lock Nuts - http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ91133?N=0&Ntt=fuji+lok&Ntk=All&Ne=&fitment=1&brand=0&results=100&refinement_search=1

Thanks ZMAN...when I first went to the linked website I thought WOW $9.99 per nut...then I noticed lower down where it described it as a 10 pack

Has anyone tried high temp lok tight or regular locking nuts instead of the fuji nuts?

I did ride my '10 to Alaska and back AND it now has 23k miles and no loose bolts, headers or otherwise. I am not sure why this is a problem, but it is not a problem for all bikes. My '09 did
not have this problem either.

I checked mine today along with installing zsteves heat inserts. 7 out of 8 mine were loose. I removed the mid fairings for the heat panel install and loosened the lower and radiator. I had to go to the store to buy a 1/4 swivel and that made it a lot easier. I also bought some high temp lock tite so maybe that will keep them from coming loose again.

Just put my Myzzy header on today....THERE IS NOTHING FUN ABOUT THIS TASK!

One gasket came completely off once. I put it back together with the help of a 1958 Fiat 500. The flywheel nuts fit quite nicely. Same size, and it is in my father in laws garage. I didn't take any of the fairing apart. It just took a little patience. No issues since. It was about 15,000 miles ago.

I decided to check mine at 7000 miles . Listened to everyone and decided to take plastic off and move rad . I can't say they were loose but they certainly were not equal . With everything being mentioned about how to proceed , no one mentioned the torque spec . This information would be beneficial if anyone out there had it . Please pass it on if you have it as I think this is a time consuming job and would like fix to last as long as possible . LOL


Ron

I think it's 13ft-lbs...

I did ride my '10 to Alaska and back AND it now has 23k miles and no loose bolts, headers or otherwise. I am not sure why this is a problem, but it is not a problem for all bikes. My '09 did
not have this problem either.

+1

my '10 hasn't had loose bolt issues either, its >74,000 miles now