Bud, Ok, maybe my English is throwing you a wee bit (raised in UK)
Once the valve cover is off, get a piece of paper and draw a good diagram looking down above the engine which should show
16 drawn holes, now go ahead (with spark plugs out) put it in 6th gear and bump the back wheel and take measurement of every shim gap (bucket to cam) if all within spec.....thats awesome news, if not..............
WRITE DOWN EACH GAP MEASUREMENT FOR EACH SHIM for reference and future reference.
Calculate what shim you will need and order them (or if you have hotcam assortment is even better) if bike gonna be left, put some clean rags in the spark plug holes (to stop any trash or god forbid a shim falling in there)
If your engine does need shims, DRAW or TAKE PICTURES of the oil feed pipes on the right side (above the cams on right) this way when you put it back together you can look at your drawing or pics to get it right, even though they cant go in wrong!
Ziptie camchain to cam sprocket (to stop the chain jumping a tooth or two) do both sprockets.
Unbolt cams EVENLY (I STRESS THIS.................EVENLY) start in the middle loosening them gradually working outwards.
Once the pressure is released you can easily remove the cam holders PUT THESE IN ORDER ON A SHELF AWAY from the bike, I usually have a piece of paper withan arrow POINTING FORWARD then place cam holders in order (yes, they are numbered so you cant mistake the way they go back on....
OK, so all cam are loose now, DO NOT PRY THEM UP in anyway, these suckers are brittle if you pry them wrong and NEVER EVER use a hammer........ lift the cams up just enough to gain access to the bucket, and use a magnet pen to touch the top of bucket and pull straight upwards, this bucket is for this valve NOT ANY OTHER, in other words dont mix the buckets up.
Ok, inside the bucket, flip it upside down and you'll see a shim!!!!!!!! use your finger to pull it out and hopefully theres a number on it (not my luck! it had wore out) its then micrometer time!!!!!!!!
Hopefully, everyone is following me here, no hands up!!!! re read!!!! lol.....
Work your measurements out and order accordingly.......
Once you you have the correct shim, dont take the numbers on it for granted, MEASURE the new one with a micrometer....
If everything is correct, put the shim in the correct hole exactly in the space where the shim sits on top of the valve, it helps if you use a little oil in there too (fingertip)
Once the shim is in the hole/holder push it hard downwards with your finger to seat it.
Lube the correct bucket, and GENTLY....... GENTLY place the bucket over the bucket hole and carefully rock it side to side with very very slight pressure making it slide down until it seats DO NOT FORCE THE BUCKET DOWN........
Now with all the shims that you have changed following the above, replace the cam caps and place them in correct locations.
AGAIN, DONT....... use force bolting them down, work from the middle outwards, this can take upto 20 mins getting the cams to seat EVENLY, once the cam caps are snug and tight (DONT wrench them down hard, just a good snug tight fit will do for now)
Is everyone following me? bcos my fingers are killing me typing all this!!!!!!!
Cut the zipties on the camchain and sprockets, then pull the zipties away from the engine and trash them.
Now, go ahead take the rags out of spark plugs holes and it helps to have a little oil can to pour a little oil on the cams (to help with lubrication) now go ahead and bump the back wheel around a few times (your bike should be on centerstand) once you have turned it a few times, go ahead and measure ALL measurements again with feelergauge.
If your calculations were correct, your a winner.........
Now, use a torque wrench on all cam caps (see manual for specs)
Replace oil feeds on right side (see your drawing or pics that you did)
Once everything is good, go ahead and replace your valve cover and work at your own pace putting your Connie back together and pat your self on the back..................
