Thanks,
That was it. At least part of the problem. The alternator connector has overheated. I guess the added load of a fuel pump pushed it over the edge. When I went to open the connector it was so brittle it fell apart. I tossed the old contacts and replaced them with new ones. Then heat shrink both ends. I'll check it again later and see how well it is holding up. Maybe replace with a different connector that can handle more current.
Glad I could point you to that; It is a common thing moreso, in older bikes, and comes from an invisible resistive coating, that takes place on those blades after time.. and, progresses to a point it will melt, or be a thermally resistive connection... Had it happen to me, in the high speed lane, during a 12 hour trip... took me out, and my bike was actually running on the batt only for a half hour.. scavenged wires from my aux driving lights, to replace the connector on the roadside.. and got it going and made it home, where I repaired it correctly.. When this occurred, I devised a method for prevention, and have done it on numerous C10's, and it works... note which wire color mates on either side of the old connector... then, snip the old connection on both sides... strip those wires back about 1/2", and scrape them free of any discoloration, if it is real bad, trim them all back more, till you get to bright copper.. (the wires them selves, will actually carry the current output of the generator... the faston blades however, can only handle about 15 amps MAX.. which is the week spot...)...
Create 8 pieces of 14 awg copper wire "pigtails", 4 with "male" Blades crimped on, and 4 with insulated (covered) "female" Blade recepticles.... make them all about 4" long, for ease of construction..
Slip heatshrink over each existing wire on bike (4 wires), then solder a pair of the new pigtail wires, to each existing connection, and slip the shrink over it, and shrink it.. this make a single wire, into a pair of wires, which will double the ampacity by the use of 2 blades, where only one pre-existed.. (basically making each wire that was there, a "Y" with 2 blades..) do the same on the other side, with the receptcle pigtails.. color code them for future use..
As noted again, a single 1/4" Faston blade, will only handle 15 amps, before it overheats..
So, you really don't need a new plastic type connector, the Faston connectors, just doubled up, cost $0, and work perfectly..
Some of the older COG folks,(I know both Ted "Connie Rider", and Rick Hall, this forums owner, were there watching this all..I have photos..) and many more that attended the '07 National rally, saw this conversion firsthand, during one of my tech sessions there, when the owner of the bike I was doing a carb rebuild demo on, happened to mention just that same day/morning he smelled "something like burning clutch/plastic" during a conversation..I looked over at the bike, and realized he had some aux lights, and lots of electrical farkles.. (which I knew in my bikes failure, was the straw that caused the meltdown) I stopped the carb demo, walked over to the bike, exposed the connector, and showed him...it was worse than the one in your photo..he was right at the point where within the next couple rides.. it would have been a total meltdown, and short circuit.. we jumped the shark on that, and I directed 3 people in this process, while I was finishing my carb lecture.
Luckily for all, at that particular venue, and time, I had my "rolling garage" in my truck,(which my loving wife drove to the rally with) specifically designed for this 3 day tech session I volunteered for.. and had wire, connectors, soldering equipment.. TOOLS, compressor and AIR tools.. solvents, and "juices", of all types, and quite realistically could have disassembled, and rebuilt a C10, onsite, with no need to run for supplies..
One other tidbit you won't find anywhere; when you initially "start the bike", the headlights come on.. when the bike is running, (and this takes a bit of practice, but can be quickly learned by a few attempts) you can then, pull "up" slightly on the ignition key, and "quickly" cycle it left and right from run to off to on, you have to do it fast... and this will release the lighting relay, and allow much more charging amps while sitting idle.. I ran NAPA 80/100 headlight bulbs... and as you see, the bike at "idle" does not produce amps, it takes about 2500 rpm, to get to the real charging amps.. the "headlight trick" will effectively free up almost 7-8 amps, during idle...
. For the fuel pump I can get a smaller one or make a PWN controller for is so that it runs at a slower speed.
There is another alternator that puts out 50% more power. Is is a zzr1200 alternator. It will bolt on and with a little wiring change it will fit the zg1000. But the cheapest I found on ebay is $150.
I'm not an electrical wizard/guru, but knowing motors, and such, I'm not sure you are correct, but then I may be wrong again, and if so, any thing I can learn is good.. but the pump itself need s a fixed amperage supply, to start, and run.. voltage changes will control the speed, but amps have to be there, to begin, and continue the process.. DC motors rely on amps to start, and run; As I say, I'm not that well versed, but know what I know, as an engineer.
the ZZR alternator / generator, upgrade, does require a bit of re modding of the system, but, has been done many times, might be good for your needs, but not the "allbeit" of the cure, some wire size changes may be needed, and some semblance of protection to other electrics also. I picked up a couple off e-bay, and stored them, for low prices when we were discussing this all about 15-17 years ago. they are still boxed up, never saw the need on either of my C10's for them then, but may break them out someday.