Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Ndulucky13 on June 23, 2018, 11:08:21 PM
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So I was removing my cop trunk wiring tonight and lost my taillight added are pictures of the wiring, can anyone help with wires to check for voltage? I checked every single fuse in all three fuse blocks. No licence plate light either.
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Are the City lights in the front out as well? Same circuit so if they are good (lit) the cut is somewhere in the back. Red with Blue stripe wire is the power (+) for all of those lights. I think I see it in the first photo, second photo I don't recognize anything except the muffler.
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City lights are good, I checked power to the red blue and I have none where do I trace back from there?
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It goes back to fuse #3 in fuse block #1 but there is a connection somewhere in the harness to the city lights between the tail light wire and the fuse, so you'd need to trace back that far. I'd just run a new wire (jumper if you will) from the fuse block to the tail light circuit rather than trace all through the harness. However the power break must be somewhere outside the harness where they tied into it for the top case, right?
Good luck, go to bed it'll be easier tomorrow. ;)
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I think a member here, Just Cliff, had some issues with mid harness ground blocks that were giving him dead spots in the wiring. He may see this or you could reach out and PM him.
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Here you go. http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=22892.msg288159#msg288159 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=22892.msg288159#msg288159)
Looks like marty also had his hands on this.
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So I checked this morning and I have no power going to the fuse for the tail light not really sure what that means
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The grounds all seem to be good there's not very much if any corrosion on this bike does anyone have access to a wiring diagram so I can start at the beginning of the brake light and trace it out until I find where the power brakes
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http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=23268.msg290215#msg290215 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=23268.msg290215#msg290215)
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The grounds all seem to be good there's not very much if any corrosion on this bike does anyone have access to a wiring diagram so I can start at the beginning of the brake light and trace it out until I find where the power brakes
I thought I PMd one to you last night..or rather very early AM...No?
Anyway, from your earlier post you implied it was working before you removed the Police top box, that would seem to indicate that the grounds are good and not corroded.
I'm becoming more confused though, as you said there is no power to the tail light fuse and yet the city lights still function? That doesn't make sense to me with oem wiring.
I'd pull that fuse to verify that the city lights go off or stay on? This should give an idea of how much the oem wiring has been modified.
It could be that they had so much lighting on the back of the bike that they bypassed the bikes original tail light circuit entirely to ensure that the oem wiring wasn't overloaded?
...go to bed it'll be easier tomorrow. ;)
Guess I was wrong about that. :(
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I actually used the wiring diagram from the link that was posted above in that discussion someone LinkedIn a PDF of the wiring diagram took me forever to figure it out but what I ended up doing is adding 12 volts to the power side of the front brake switch and everything works perfect now actually got out and put about 25 miles on it today with the gf to see how she liked it. Good news is she loved it and I have to say I did to the electric windshield is great.
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what I ended up doing is adding 12 volts to the power side of the front brake switch and everything works perfect now
Hmmm...I hope you undo that when stopped for the day, my reading of the bike wiring shows a power jumper to the front brake switch would leave everything powered up even when you turn off the bike. I guess it depends on where you got your 12 volts from, if from a switched circuit then OK I guess depending on the power demands made on the wiring involved. If you've jumpered directly from the battery to the brake switch, then I'd have to say that's not a good idea.
However, I'm glad you are enjoying the bike, but don't take the C14 circuitry too lightly or you may end up going down the same path as Tree did (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=22892.msg284144#msg284144).
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On my version of the cop wiring there is a large power distribution switch that only switches on when the key is turned. So lights do not come on with key off. The switch draws power directly from the battery and comes on with the key being in the on position so no extra load on any other circuit and my brake light has power now.
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I'm enjoying the term "cop wiring" ...
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKmuKjpKPIo#)
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What would you like me to call it?
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What would you like me to call it?
"Cop wiring" is perfect! :thumbs: :chugbeer: That's what it is!
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What would you like me to call it?
He enjoys it so keep calling it that
Ad well.ad great advice most here have a good sense of humor . LEO Equiped?
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I can't help but be reminded of this classic:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKmuKjpKPIo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKmuKjpKPIo)
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I can't help but be reminded of this classic:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKmuKjpKPIo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKmuKjpKPIo)
Uh, that's the exact video I posted just 4 posts back ... Great minds :thumbs:
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Depending on who did the upfitting, it's hard to tell what is wired to what. I started yanking the Whelen gear, radios and other gear when I first got it. It's cool stuff to have but I would never use it. I just finally pulled the last wiring of what can be pulled out on my police version. What you see in the pics below is about half of what came out. There is still about three feet of extended factory harness with no place to go. I added a box on back and just stuffed it in there. Don't be afraid to get creative. See my horn thread. Did yours come with a working factory horn?
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The initial bikes out of Idaho had a wiring challenge. I had one of the first challenging bikes and they sent a rep to our local shop to work on the problem The issue became very difficult and third party fixes began to irritate Mother Kaw. The 1400P was discontinued. Mother Kaw then sent out crews and did about a $6000 upgrade to all of the existing 1400P bikes. I was informed that it was the big reason Kaw pulled the bike as Mother Kaw had lost control of the bikes and the fixes. Just FYI. Interesting to know if the bike you purchased was pre or post upgrade.
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My cop bike has a lights kill switch, assuming for the purposes of having the bike on, but all lights are stealth'd out for discretion. Being that way, I'm assuming the rear portion of this was run through the trunk, and removing it you removed the connection.
Like others have said, if it worked before you removed it, than it works, and must be a connection within the trunk space.