Must be some way to get that pedal lowered 1-1.5" to at least be level with the peg, how are you guys doing it? Thanks

I think I read it involved changing the lever out for one from maybe a ZX9?  Not sure on that, but I think thats the only way to get the position moved...but Ive been wrong before.

Someone else might need to explain this in more detail but the pedal is lowered by adjusting the length of the rod that attaches the pedal to the rear master cylinder.

Pull the split pin from the rod, disconnect pedal from rod, turn rod clockwise into master cylinder. Refit everything and check height of pedal. Repeat as necessary.

However, be aware that if you have the pedal too low, it will hit the exhaust before the rear brake starts to bite/work.

It has been a long time since I had to think about this simple mod.... It requires no extra parts and only a small amount of time. I believe that you will need to remove a couple of bolts from the backside of the brake pedal mounting flange to remove it from the frame. You will then remove the cotter pin from the brake clevis so that you can then remove the locking nuts from the adjustment linkage; this will allow you to thread it further into its respective location and allow your brake pedal to ride much lower. I believe that you can also cut the length of the brake rod a little bit shorter to further lower the pedal some more. I don't recall cutting mine and know that it does not hit the exhaust pipe. You do not need these locking nuts as due to design it can not come loose and does not change on it's own.

You'll also need to disconnect the rear brake switch, and unscrew the switch a bit, so it engages later, because the lever is in a different spot.  The switch is in the hollow plastic screw on top of the rear master cylinder.  It took me a few tries to get right; the brake light stayed on all the time!

On my '91 there was much more clearance for the adjustment vs my 86.  Perhaps that brake bit or bracket changed between those years?

I also swapped the cotter pin for a ringed pin that I can remove with my fingers.  My original pin was so twisted it was tough to remove.

Thanks Blondie I forgot the part about the brake switch.

Thanks men.

Or fab this, like I did.
Use a rubber hose or good old Duck Tape to push down on.
Good luck.
Ride safe all.
Greg

Maybe I was thinkin of the shifter side...or maybe Im just nuts!  LOL!

Maybe I was thinkin of the shifter side...or maybe Im just nuts!  LOL!

Could be...... 

I think I read it involved changing the lever out for one from maybe a ZX9?  Not sure on that, but I think thats the only way to get the position moved...but Ive been wrong before.

I think you maybe thinking of the excellent modification of replacing the stock footpegs with ZX9 footpegs. This mod does require the fitting of a ZX6 rear brake lever. This mod does not lower the footpegs, it raises them a small amount and moves them to the rear.

Got it done. The measurement from the clevis to the master cylinder is obviously a little shorter than spec, but it all works. Had to adjust the switch too, as was suggested. The pedal is in a much better position now. Went across the bike and adjusted the shifter just a tad too. All is good. Thanks.

Here's my copy of the pegs page from the FAQ:

Foot Peg Location

Are the foot pegs too high for you? A set of GenMar or Motorcycle Larry foot peg extensions will lower them but they also move them out a little. That causes them to touch down when leaned over sharply but since the pegs still fold it's not a real concern. More people are bothered by the need to angle your left foot in towards the bike to shift. You get used to it but it is awkward at first.

If you find the foot pegs are too far forward there are a few ways to go. One is to move the foot pegs higher and back (rearsets). Thank Steve Scully for doing the "legwork".
http://www.pbase.com/elvin315/concours_10&page=4

If you want them further back but lower you could accomplish this with GWing pegs and Murph's KneeSavers.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2421100760083855408shUXcx

Now, moving the left peg back pulls it away from the shift lever. Good if you have Sasquatch feet but bad for us normal humans. The fix is a longer shift lever. Credit goes to George R. Young for this one. George also found a shorter brake pedal that brings its footpad closer to the now rearset right peg. Kawasaki never answered our pleas for adjustable foot pegs & controls. Thanks to determined owners like George, we now have options.
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/rearsets.htm



Foot Lever Adjustments

Whether you move the foot pegs or not you will benefit from adjusting the foot levers.  Placing the levers where they're most comfortable and easiest to reach with your feet will improve your riding with smoother faster shifts, and better modulated braking.

To adjust the shift lever use a wrench to loosen the 2 locknuts on the connecting rod (one is reverse threaded). Twist the rod until the lever height meets your needs, then tighten everything up. If that isn't enough you can rotate the shift shaft clamp one spline but no more than that. It would change the relationship between the shift lever and the shift detent leading to missed shifts and false neutrals.

The brake pedal is a little more involved but still fairly easy. You pull a cotter pin off the clevis pin on the brake cylinder push rod and remove the clevis pin. Loosen the locknut, unscrew the clevis from the master cylinder pushrod, and remove the locknut. Replace the clevis without the locknut. Adjust the pushrod by screwing it all the way into the clevis and replace the clevis pin. Reinsert the cotter pin. The locknut isn't necessary and removing it give you the extra room you need to move the brake pedal down.

All that's left is to adjust the rear brake light switch. Up on the frame, above the rear brakelight switch, are 2 bullet connectors. Snip the cable tie and disconnect them. Hold the plastic nut and screw the light switch in. Reconnect the bullets and test the brake pedal. Repeat until the brake light operates properly.

I did everything above and still felt pedal was still  in wrong position.I ground part of the clevis off and welded the lower nut to that and got to the point that was comfortable for me.

If you still can't get enough from the brake pedal using the above, it can be heated and bent but you have to be carefull and not use too much heat. I've done this numerous times. See photo below of heated & bent pedal.

Regards, Russell

If pic comes through.