Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: kzz1king on July 25, 2018, 06:30:12 PM
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Anyone use one? On thr road and may not have a choice. Thinking of the Atm
Anyone use these? Thank
Wayne
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I haven't used that one but I did have to purchase one from Batteries Plus for my ZRX about 6 years ago and it's still going strong. It also uses a YTX14BS, hopefully another option for you.
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Thanks!
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Any battery that keeps me from walking is a good one, as far as I'm concerned. While some last longer than others, I do what it takes to ride
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I haven't used that one but I did have to purchase one from Batteries Plus for my ZRX about 6 years ago and it's still going strong. It also uses a YTX14BS, hopefully another option for you.
Let's see pics of that ZRX! :thumbs:
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I left my key on somehow at a 20 minute stop. Not enough juice to crank it. Buddies push started me. Rode 200 miles and seen a couple low voltage readings at the next few startups. Seems good now. Trying it one more day. Will replace if needed before I leave this area. They have one in stock.
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I left my key on somehow at a 20 minute stop. Not enough juice to crank it. Buddies push started me.
I wasn't even aware that modern higher-tech motorcycles (like the Concours 1400) COULD be push-started! Interesting. I assume it had enough battery power to get the computer running and past KIPASS first, before trying to push it...
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the Super Start units aren't bad, pricey, but OK.
shouldn't have panic'd tho...
I left my key on somehow at a 20 minute stop. Not enough juice to crank it. Buddies push started me. Rode 200 miles and seen a couple low voltage readings at the next few startups. Seems good now. Trying it one more day. Will replace if needed before I leave this area. They have one in stock.
before you buy, remove the cables, and abrasively clean the battery terminals and cable ends, including the grounding surface on the frame next to the battery..
your battery may be just fine, it's gotta charge back up...
a one time '20 minute drain', which results in low cranking amps, is nothing to be freaking out over... happens all the time...
the effective solution is to remove the battery, clean the terminals, and ALL the connectors abrasively, and toss that battery ( after shaking it all up for a minute or so) on a normal non-automatic battery charger..( the kind with a meter, you have to watch, and remove the charger when the battery comes 'full') charge @ the 2 amp setting, no higher, and monitor it, it may take a couple hours, but should not take more than 6 hours to 'restore'...
then, reinstall it and ride, and check the charging via onboard diagnostics..
some batts just plain croak, but a lot of them can be brought back.. I've been prey to the syndrome myself, and kick my own butt when I panic about a batt that was sitting, and begin the 're-furb' on it, just this year I bought a new battery, which I really didn't need, out of 'panic', and during the time it to to recharge, and re-cycle, I also had the new batt on charge to 'condition it after activation'... so, I installed the new batt... and now have a perfectly good ( yep, did a load test on it after restoring it) 'spare'.... dammit... so it's on the tender now, staying 'perky'...
I've been using Exide batteries for the last decade, and find them good units, and very conducive to bring back to life.
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I wasn't even aware that modern higher-tech motorcycles (like the Concours 1400) COULD be push-started! Interesting. I assume it had enough battery power to get the computer running and past KIPASS first, before trying to push it...
yeah, that 20 minute 'drain time' dropped the batt down to near the cuttoff point of 10v, but was enough to light the fire, and power the electronics enough to fire it when fuel was delivered... when they drop below 10v, it ain't happening, but we 'bump started a few' over the years, that had been treated the same way, key left on... juice dropped...
shutting the key off will usually let the batt recover in about 20 minutes to an hour, to a point where you have 10v or slightly more... and that's what ya need to get a 'bump start'.
we have seen it occurr the most on C14's, when the cables have invisible oxide coating, and the symptoms pop up on rides, with poor running and no starts, as the resistive coating does allow the high amp pull, to start the engine, up untill it can't anymore, but it also prevents the battery from being recharged during running, because the current on recharge circuit cannot over come the resistance on the terminals...
10 years strong this has been an issue.
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wow... just checked on the price from my local store....
https://tinyurl.com/y9j4h7cf
no freaking way... don't do it... 3 month warranty?
and almost twice the price of anything out there...?? Batteries Plus ships overnight... and has fair prices.
wow, find a TSC (Tractor Supply Co), they have Exide batts for under $100
or some other outlet store... tell us where you are, that would make it easier to direct you to an affordable battery...
oh, keep in mind, both the one you were considering, and also the Exide batt, come DRY, you have to add the acid, activate, and pre charge the battery prior to installation... on the road, that wont work.
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Let's see pics of that ZRX! :thumbs:
A few years ago, 156k miles now.
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Thanks. Battery is now working fine. Charging rate and resting voltage are all good. Battery is of unknown age but I have had the bike 3 years. Going to just keep it in over winter and may change it out for next trip. Thanks for all the info.Appeciated.
Wayne