Apologies in advance but I found my way to your forum whilst researching my install and now I have a problem was hoping the obvious vast experience within this site might be able to help me? Ive searched extensively but cant find an answer so I was wondering if you guys have ever encountered anything like the following?
Ive installed a 250-1123, using a CCS100 keypad, on a Hayabusa gen2 setup for touring (pause while howls of derision die down 😉).
It all works perfectly except for one strange trait.
If the unit is turned off, and I apply the rear brake, then when I release the rear brake, the unit turns on - intermittently. My install uses the relay-brake-light option as The gen2 has a LED brake light.
I dont have the issue when I apply the front brake.
The red wire and the activation for the brake light relay are connectd across the rear brake light switch, but front brake switch is in parallel to the rear so it seems odd I only have issue with rear brake.
I Originally had the issue constantly but I swapped to a different relay and now the problem is intermittent.
Both the grounds that go to the relay and the overall ground for the Cruise actuator go to the same bolt on the subframe.
Does anyone have any thoughts on what may be causing this annoying trait? Maybe I need a diode or capacitor on the relay somewhere (really guessing now)?
I am aware of another install that had a similar issue with an ungrounded brake light modulator installed but my brake light is stock.
Any incites would be much appreciated.
Cheers Chris
Ive installed a 250-1123, using a CCS100 keypad, on a Hayabusa gen2 setup for touring (pause while howls of derision die down 😉).
That really is an unusual problem.
Because both brake lights (both or either) cause the relay to close, it should really not be possible for only one brake light to cause any odd behavior on the 'other' side of the relay; that is actually what relays do, they isolate one circuit from the other, so the two brake circuits should not be able to have different results on the other, or power side, of the relay.
So, the only thing I can think of, especially since you mention this changed after you changed the relay for another one, is that the relay is not closing and staying closed, as it should, but instead rapidly opening and closing. This is called 'bouncing' in the electronic community and resembles 'chattering' or buzzing as the relay rapidly opens and closes. The usual cause of this is insufficient current going through the relay's coil to keep it closed, and that is caused by (almost always) a bad connection on the power side of the relay.
I would suggest not using a frame as a grounding point but instead tap into the actual ground circuit on the bike. There will be a lot of wires used for ground all over the bike, find out what color they are (they will all be that same color), and tap into one of those lines for the ground connection of the relay and the control pad but NOT the ground from the Rostra's actuator. Even better would be to run a wire of at least 16 gauge directly from the negative terminal of the battery and use it for all of the ground connections of all circuits installed for the Rostra, including that relay.
If that fails, though I really think that is the problem, then I would check the rear brake light circuit to see if it is chattering. This can be tough but using an analog voltage meter may show the needle jittering slightly if checking the voltage on the brake circuit when it is on though decent quality, taut- band analog voltage meters are somewhat expensive. Best is an oscilloscope but most people do not have those lying around.
Still, I suspect nothing but a ground problem, especially because you are using a frame grounding point and an actual ground line will fix your problem I think. Besides that, it is a good idea to do it that way anyway so it would not be a waste of time in my opinion anyway.
Best of luck with that.
Brian
Brian, thanks for the suggestion, I will give it a try but Im a bit sceptical. The issue occurs when I release the brake which corresponds to the relay in turn releasing NOT energising. Will be a week or so before I can try your suggestion as Im off on an Endurance ride this weekend which will be my first opportunity to use the Rostra as intended. I will just put up wth it being 'on' all the time. i will report back. Cheers Chris.
I'd be less inclined to say it's a bad earth from the install given the front brake switch doesn't induce the same symptoms and it's using the same earth.
IMHO it's more likely to be the rear brake switch itself, possibly its got some crud in it
<snip>
I do have one other question though. Ive bought a banjo bolt pressure switch that is sometimes used in front brake master cylinders to activate brake lights. I was thinking of replacing the banjo at my clutch slave cylinder with it and hooking it up to the Rostra clutch deactivation circuit so when I pull the clutch, hopefully the banjo switch will activate and be able to deactivate the Rostra if it is engaged. I am tapped into one of my ignition coils but the only time I tested that by pulling in the clutch, the Rostra didnt seem to disengage before I chickened out and released the clutch before the engine hit the redline so Im looking at this as an alternative safety. Any thoughts?
The problem is that there is no way for the brake light sensor on the Rostra to cause it to power up in the first place. Beyond what vehicle, and beyond the relay, it is simply not possible to use the brake light wire to cause the actuator to power up. The only way to do that is to put power to the red wire in the control pad. So this problem as described is..... for lack of a better way to put it, impossible. And yet I am quite sure the gentleman is correct in what he has said. So now that we have an impossible situation actually happening, the only thing left is a system- wide 'gremlin' in my thinking. ??
What has been described would be the logical equivalent of unplugging a table lamp, leaving it unplugged, then turning on the lamp switch and having it illuminate. It just defies reason and logic and 'cannot happen'. Which leaves us with something really odd such as the table lamp has TWO cords plugged into two different places, which would be extremely odd in itself but the only way possible for an un-plugged lamp to light. This is what leads me to the thought that something like one or more grounds are not fully grounded, allowing wires to 'float' in voltage, and then allowing something odd to happen such as a miss- wired brake relay causing a voltage spike to the actuator, causing a false but valid apparent voltage on that other, red switch, wire.
Brian
Apologies in advance but I found my way to your forum whilst researching my install and now I have a problem was hoping the obvious vast experience within this site might be able to help me? Ive searched extensively but cant find an answer so I was wondering if you guys have ever encountered anything like the following?
Ive installed a 250-1123, using a CCS100 keypad, on a Hayabusa gen2 setup for touring (pause while howls of derision die down 😉).
It all works perfectly except for one strange trait.
If the unit is turned off, and I apply the rear brake, then when I release the rear brake, the unit turns on - intermittently. My install uses the relay-brake-light option as The gen2 has a LED brake light.
I dont have the issue when I apply the front brake.
The red wire and the activation for the brake light relay are connectd across the rear brake light switch, but front brake switch is in parallel to the rear so it seems odd I only have issue with rear brake.
I Originally had the issue constantly but I swapped to a different relay and now the problem is intermittent.
Both the grounds that go to the relay and the overall ground for the Cruise actuator go to the same bolt on the subframe.
Does anyone have any thoughts on what may be causing this annoying trait? Maybe I need a diode or capacitor on the relay somewhere (really guessing now)?
I am aware of another install that had a similar issue with an ungrounded brake light modulator installed but my brake light is stock.
Any incites would be much appreciated.
Cheers Chris
At the moment, I would like to know if anybody knows the PPM on a Yamaha FJ 09 2016 or where I can find that information.
Hello guys.
I am new on that forum. I started to install a Rostra CC on my FJR 1300 2005 early this spring and I finally have it working fine, after much struggling, thanks to a forum similar to this one on FJR. I did two more successful installations for friends of mine after this one, one on a FJR 2012 and one on a 2016 FJ 09
At the moment, I would like to know if anybody knows the PPM on a Yamaha FJ 09 2016 or where I can find that information.
I also want to thank all the people who give very crucial informations about Rostra cruise installation, and congratulate Brian for his phenomenal contribution.
By the way, this is a realty that the installation on a C14 looks pretty straightforward compare to the FJR and FJ...
Thank you in advance.