Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => Accessories and Modifications - C10 => Topic started by: bowtie39 on September 16, 2011, 10:57:04 PM
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Topic has been covered recently however I need some feedback on heater pad installation. I have Murphs gel grips and covered those with grip puppies for a little more bulk. Was intending to pull the grip puppies and stick pads to gel grips and put puppies back on. Now I am wondering if they need to be under the gels stuck to the handlebars and covered with both grips I use????
What say you? :o
Thanks,
Roger
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I don't think you'll feel the heaters through two sets of grips.
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I don't think you'll feel the heaters through two sets of grips.
Correct - put them over the grips and under the puppies for the best heat.
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Thanks guys as that seems to reason for heat coming thru and being utilized.
Roger
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This sounds pretty easy! I too was thinking about the grip puppies over my oem grips. How easy is it to wire the heaters?
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If you've already installed Murph's fuse block, it's a piece of cake (just wire it to the new fuse block). I'm sure others will comment as to where to splice into the existing system.
I have a length of appropriate gauge SJOO insulated wire running from the fuse block/J Box area to the handlebars, where it is wired into the switch, which I zip tied against the right vertical handlebar (I did the same with my driving lights, and attached the rocker switch to the left handlebar). I bought some shrink tubing which I wrapped around the switch (to completely cover the wires I soldered to the switch). A fellow rider commented that it actually looked 'factory' since I had done such a good job with the shrink tubing.
The grip heater kit did come with sufficient wiring to reach the fuse block I think, but the SJOO sheath is much more durable.
Others like to locate their switch above the left glove box or other areas, it really comes down to personal preference.
The only 'annoying' thing that has come up with my current grip heaters is that the 'high' circuit isn't working anymore, only the 'low' setting, so I don't get as much warmth on cold days as I'd like. Still, some is better than none.
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+1 on murphs fuse box- makes adding electrical items easy.
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Didn't someone on here a while back, modify some V-Strom hand gaurds onto a Connie? It eliminated the need for grip warmers by drastically cutting the wind to the hands. It was definatly before the crash, but it has to be out there somewhere.
Just an idea here, the less electric the better I always say.
Ride safe all, and ATGATT please.
Greg
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+1 on murphs fuse box- makes adding electrical items easy.
This reminded me, Murphs fuse block takes the extra load out of the J Box, as it draws 'switched' power directly from the battery, not through the J Box, which is a known weak point of the Connie electrical system. Said fuse block is wired in such a way that it is only on when the key is on, so you don't have to worry about leaving accessories on when you shut off the bike. And it's a breeze to install!
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Didn't someone on here a while back, modify some V-Strom hand gaurds onto a Connie? It eliminated the need for grip warmers by drastically cutting the wind to the hands. It was definatly before the crash, but it has to be out there somewhere.
Just an idea here, the less electric the better I always say.
Ride safe all, and ATGATT please.
Greg
It was Goatmar. I have it in a word doc if anyone is interested. Send ma a PM.
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This reminded me, Murphs fuse block takes the extra load out of the J Box, as it draws 'switched' power directly from the battery, not through the J Box, which is a known weak point of the Connie electrical system.
Actually, unless you've modified the alternator wiring, all charging to the battery runs through the J-Box (which includes the current load demanded by any accessories connected directly to the battery). This is clearly explained in schematics that Slybones has posted on his webpage in the alternator upgrade section.
BTW, I'm pretty sure Murph does Not claim his kit removes the load from the J-Box.
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My point was that you aren't adding any additional load to existing circuits, such as the headlight circuit. As for the 'main' that the alternator uses to charge the battery that is routed through the J Box, you are of course correct.
Most J Box failures I've read about here usually involve the headlight circuit, the starter/ignition circuits, or other similar high load circuits.