Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Awaz on May 17, 2013, 06:37:39 AM
-
I swear I did a search and did not come up with anything substantial. I just want an understanding how the tire pressure sensor internally works. Does it detect the amount of force being applied upon it? Basically how does it sense the pressure? The reason I am asking is I took the sensor out when I was changing my rear tire and wanted to change the battery. I got a new battery, but it is a PITA to solder a wire to the battery. So what I did is shown in the picture. It appears they fit fine, but wanted to put a rubber grommet on top and bottom to make sure enough pressure gets applied to the disc to make contact. If I do put rubber grommets, the encasing becomes tougher to shut. So was thinking perhaps I can press it in and just put tape around it (or secure it in some other means). But did not want that to cause issues with functionality.
-
Why not just buy batteries with the tabs already welded on?
-
Why not just buy batteries with the tabs already welded on?
(http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/Tony4in1/Clipart/bth_elmer-fudd.gif) .... did not know those exist....
-
If one doesn't do some soldiering anyway, the battery will go flying on the right bump
-
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CR-2032L%2FF1N/P668-ND/2415266 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CR-2032L%2FF1N/P668-ND/2415266)
(http://media.digikey.com/Photos/Panasonic%20Photos/CR-2032L%5EF1N.jpg)
Or maybe this one: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CR-2032%2FF2N/P657-ND/2404062 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CR-2032%2FF2N/P657-ND/2404062)
(http://media.digikey.com/Photos/Panasonic%20Photos/CR-2032%5EF2N.JPG)
-
Digikey won't ship USPS and the other carriers were outrageous.
Head over to Ebay and buy these...shipping is a buck via USPS.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370520929093?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/370520929093?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
-
Well, I do not want to wait for those batteries to arrive. So for now, I am securing the battery to the washers using some double sided tape. So far holding good. I do need to put some tape around the encasing as it will not close properly. So, back to my original question, will putting tape around will cause any sensing issue? Undue pressure, etc, etc.
-
I don't think that the tape will cause any issues, other than you shouldn't be surprised when it stops working in the very near future.
Did you try to solder the wires to the battery? If you do, don't get the battery too hot. Use something to scuff up the area of the battery where you'll solder the wire first.
-
Yeah I tried that - scuffed it up and tried to solder - it won't stick. I pitched the battery I tried to solder on and just used a different one. The washers are thick enough that they make contact. My worry is the plastic encasing coming loose. *goes and wraps more tape*
-
You may as well wait the two days and do it right. You'll be pulling it back apart when your tape comes off and battery starts flying around inside your tire anyway.
-
Price is right with the at home method repair method since you don't want to wait to have some mailed to your home. Do the fix and get back on the road
But +1 on cablebandits comment, order the batteries so you'll have them on hand when the tape fails.
-
My pressure sensor.
(http://www.slime.com/shop/images/869/2007100213561031016_lrg.jpg)
-
The TPS sensors have an on- board chip that directly senses pressure, temperature and centripital force. That isn't goinig to do you much good replacing the battery though.
Your idea of just pressing something metallic against each side of the battery will work OK but may be unreliable as others have pointed out.
You should not solder to any disposable battery, especially a lithium battery. It simply heats the battery too much. A much better way is to use a battery with spot welded tabs on it, and solder those tabs to the buss bars on the sensor itself. You can use standard tabbed batteries, band back the tab and solder a wire between the tab and the buss bar. A different way to go that works very well is to have someplace like Batteries Plus solder on tabs in a custom location (about 45 degrees apart, top vs. bottom) then trim the tabs to tuck down onto the buss bar ends, and finally just solder the tabs onto the buss bar ends. A very solid and safe method. I have done a few sets this way but unfortunately don't have photos (it was during tech day and things were a bit rushed). When I change tires this summer I will also install new batteries using that method and document it with photos for anyone else who wants to do his / her own that way.
Brian
I swear I did a search and did not come up with anything substantial. I just want an understanding how the tire pressure sensor internally works. Does it detect the amount of force being applied upon it? Basically how does it sense the pressure? The reason I am asking is I took the sensor out when I was changing my rear tire and wanted to change the battery. I got a new battery, but it is a PITA to solder a wire to the battery. So what I did is shown in the picture. It appears they fit fine, but wanted to put a rubber grommet on top and bottom to make sure enough pressure gets applied to the disc to make contact. If I do put rubber grommets, the encasing becomes tougher to shut. So was thinking perhaps I can press it in and just put tape around it (or secure it in some other means). But did not want that to cause issues with functionality.
-
The TPS sensors have an on- board chip that directly senses pressure, temperature and centripital force. That isn't goinig to do you much good replacing the battery though.
Your idea of just pressing something metallic against each side of the battery will work OK but may be unreliable as others have pointed out.
You should not solder to any disposable battery, especially a lithium battery. It simply heats the battery too much. A much better way is to use a battery with spot welded tabs on it, and solder those tabs to the buss bars on the sensor itself. You can use standard tabbed batteries, band back the tab and solder a wire between the tab and the buss bar. A different way to go that works very well is to have someplace like Batteries Plus solder on tabs in a custom location (about 45 degrees apart, top vs. bottom) then trim the tabs to tuck down onto the buss bar ends, and finally just solder the tabs onto the buss bar ends. A very solid and safe method. I have done a few sets this way but unfortunately don't have photos (it was during tech day and things were a bit rushed). When I change tires this summer I will also install new batteries using that method and document it with photos for anyone else who wants to do his / her own that way.
Brian
Thanks...
My TPS is not bad - I just get the low battery warning all the time. Figured I try switching the batteries out when I had the tire off.
-
I swear I did a search and did not come up with anything substantial.
I guess it's like Curly (I'm thinking and thinking but nothing is happening!).
I'm going to work on adding some topics like this to the C14 Wiki area so it's more of a one stop shop. The problem with searching for something like this is that everyone uses different terms and spellings in the threads. Cripples the search function, it does.
-
Yeah I tried that - scuffed it up and tried to solder - it won't stick. I pitched the battery I tried to solder on and just used a different one. The washers are thick enough that they make contact. My worry is the plastic encasing coming loose. *goes and wraps more tape*
It can be done.
(http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/3689/sdc10154l.jpg)
-
Did you try to solder the wires to the battery? If you do, don't get the battery too hot. Use something to scuff up the area of the battery where you'll solder the wire first.
Most solder won't stick to the steel casings of such stuff. Factory uses spot welding. If CAN be done, but requires the right solder and a VERY hot iron for a very short time (or it can serious damage the battery).
I would not recommend tape. If it fails, it will be expensive to get the tire(s) off and back on and balanced yet again...
-
Awaz, instead of relying only on the tape, try using a zip tie or two, to secure the two halves of the case together.
You can solder to batteries with regular soldering irons or guns, but you need to scrape the shiny coating (non-technical term) off, usually down to the copper or tin underneath, and pre-tin the spot you want to solder the wire to. However, as others have stated, over heating the battery is really bad, and could potentially cause it to rupture. If you do this, do it quickly, and use lots of flux.
-
Words words words....
Just de-solder this battery:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V8HX9ZAWld4/UYJqB6IM5YI/AAAAAAAACK0/smk_wfkd8RU/w958-h719-no/P1060189.JPG)
Spend three bucks on the nearly drop-in replacement. And solder it in.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xi0Nt25CZpI/UYJqDmQ_BHI/AAAAAAAACK8/F8w3v4rluA4/w958-h719-no/P1060193.JPG)
-
I had my battery place solder the tabs on. I took in an old battery. Two cost 5 bucks. They were ready in two hours. I did put some tape around mine because when I installed Murphs 90 degree valve stems the sensors would not tighten up completely. No problems with the sensors. I think I put on two wraps.
-
Went to Batteries Plus.......they spot welded tabs on and soldered them in place.....cost 6 bucks and I gave the tech a '$10 tip for doing the WHOLE thing for me. Heat can destroy both the battery and the circuit board and the spot welder does the job well. Just take them in separate bags so you don't confuse the front and the rear sensors.
Big Baldy
-
I swear I did a search and did not come up with anything substantial. I just want an understanding how the tire pressure sensor internally works. Does it detect the amount of force being applied upon it? Basically how does it sense the pressure? The reason I am asking is I took the sensor out when I was changing my rear tire and wanted to change the battery. I got a new battery, but it is a PITA to solder a wire to the battery. So what I did is shown in the picture. It appears they fit fine, but wanted to put a rubber grommet on top and bottom to make sure enough pressure gets applied to the disc to make contact. If I do put rubber grommets, the encasing becomes tougher to shut. So was thinking perhaps I can press it in and just put tape around it (or secure it in some other means). But did not want that to cause issues with functionality.
I've put this together for your enjoyment....actually for anyone else interested in these sensors and their issues.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13831.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13831.0)
Still working on it but am at least up to page 25 in rooting out the TPMS threads. You're right in that it's damnably difficult to search these out as we all use different terms. It ain't no better on the 'other' site either using search.
-
I've had both sensor batteries in with a friction fit for some time, and they work like a champ. Solder and weld if you must, but they don't need it.
Now oil, on the other hand... ;D
-
I've put this together for your enjoyment....actually for anyone else interested in these sensors and their issues.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13831.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13831.0)
Still working on it but am at least up to page 25 in rooting out the TPMS threads. You're right in that it's damnably difficult to search these out as we all use different terms. It ain't no better on the 'other' site either using search.
Shipping note....Digikey won't ship USPS but ebay sellers will for about a buck.
-
Went to Batteries Plus.......they spot welded tabs on and soldered them in place.....cost 6 bucks and I gave the tech a '$10 tip for doing the WHOLE thing for me. Heat can destroy both the battery and the circuit board and the spot welder does the job well. Just take them in separate bags so you don't confuse the front and the rear sensors.
Big Baldy
d*mmit man I though it was over-simple to begin with, this really changes everything. Thanks for the heads up :D
-
The list of threads is very useful. perhaps a few notes so the threads with detailed how to's (like this one) are "more obviouser"?
Just a hint but on another MC forum several of the "old hands" post thread links to the best thread with answers about the issue at hand. More useful than posting a quick but not complete, detailed, with pics answer.
-
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,56348.msg420336.html#msg420336 (http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,56348.msg420336.html#msg420336)
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,40026.msg259402.html#msg259402 (http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,40026.msg259402.html#msg259402)
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,29847.0.html (http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,29847.0.html)