Started a valve adjustment

[kzz1king]

Thanks for talking me into it MOB. 6 valves are out of spec and the rest are at minimum. Most have changed since the PO checked them. I am really glad I checked. Now to study up on cam removal.
Wayne



uote author=MAN OF BLUES link=topic=22047.msg273720#msg273720 date=1482445788]
tough call...
you mentioned talking to the OP, did he say he adjusted them, or merely inspected and those figures were what he measured at the time?

2 years, and 10k miles have been put on since that map you showed, and seeing as they only measured to 3 decimal places, who knows?
did they jamb a .005" feeler in and say it was .005", or was it a slip fit?
makes a big difference, especially with them all sitting at that low end on intakes.
the exhaust side looks ok, but then again, things change.
I used feeler stock and measured mine to 4 decimal places also
I did my initial inspection, and decided to stretch a bit longer, and when I did the second inspect about 8k later, the following spring, I had a substantial group of them that were at or below the min limits... which surprised me somewhat...

I you have the time, and a nice heated workspace, it's not a bad project...  and come springtime you'll be ready to roll without interruption... for a god long time.
[/quote]

[kzz1king]

Have a question. What does one use to torque the valve cover down? Not there yet but I dont think there is room in there for either of my torque wrenches.

What I have learned so far.
A lot of stuff to get to the cams.
Removing the radiator and front fender were well worth the time.
After 2 C10's I was pleasently surprised at how easy the valve cover comes out!
Mine isn't one of the bikes that didnt need any adjustment

Have a ways to go. My try and get some shim stock and remeasure before I pull cams.
Wayne

[maxtog]

After 2 C10's I was pleasently surprised at how easy the valve cover comes out!

My previous bike was naked, a ZRX.  GETTING to most everything was easy- you could see it all.  But the valve cover?  Ug!!!!  There was just no clearance.  There was one and only one exact way it had to go in or it could not clear the frame.  It took two of us probably 10+ minutes to get it back on!  Had they just give a few more mm clearance, it would have been a piece of cake.  So not everything is how it appears, sometimes.

[B.D.F.]

I just tightened them by hand. My torque wrench would reach some but not all so I guess I could have torqued the ones that I could reach, use them as guides and tighten the rest by hand as close to the 'torqued' ones as possible. All of that said, it is not a critical area and it does have a positive stop so tightening by hand seems more than good enough. All IMO of course.

Brian

Have a question. What does one use to torque the valve cover down? Not there yet but I dont think there is room in there for either of my torque wrenches.

What I have learned so far.
A lot of stuff to get to the cams.
Removing the radiator and front fender were well worth the time.
After 2 C10's I was pleasently surprised at how easy the valve cover comes out!
Mine isn't one of the bikes that didnt need any adjustment

Have a ways to go. My try and get some shim stock and remeasure before I pull cams.
Wayne

[just gone]

I wonder what oil would be best for multi- day, redline running?

:-)

Brian

Amsoil, no doubt.

OH you guys...... 
...now cut that out! 

[B.D.F.]

Well actually, I was waiting for someone to specify..... wait for it..... Redline. You know, for 'multi- day, red-line running', which was the original thought. But I guess either no one caught that one or did not bother to bat the ball back over the net.

So I can finish this off myself (Easy Boys!): what is the best oil for running an engine at the redline? Why I would suspect Redline oil, available at: https://www.redlineoil.com/     I mean gueze guize, it kinda' follows, right?

Brian

OH you guys...... 
...now cut that out! 

[martin_14]

oh, boy... just when I thought I'm done learning English 

[maxtog]

oh, boy... just when I thought I'm done learning English 

English is an insane language.  I don't think anyone is ever done learning it.  At least it is sublime.

[just gone]

  I mean gueze guize, it kinda' follows, right?

Oh groan.

(...but I did smile for a fleeting second before the groan came out.  OK, maybe it was two winks instead of a fleeting second.)

[B.D.F.]

Well, English is my first language, my hair is mostly white and I know I am not done learning it....

Then again, there are some nice things about English: there is no gender in the language, which native English speakers find downright puzzling when studying other languages (I mean really, why does a street have a gender?). There is generally only one state in English, as opposed to the 'du' and 'sie' of German, for example, so no confusion there. And we do not separate the same word into a verb and a noun depending on spelling..... well, the English do but we Americans do not (practice and practise are the same words but one is a noun and the other a verb in British English).

Sorry, this is OFFTOPIC. The original topic was oil, right?  Wait, I think the original topic was...... oh yeah, valve adjustment! Put me down for a 'YEA' on valve adjustments, I am definitely for them, although my actual vote has to be pushed through the Electrical college before we know how much is it really worth.

Monday morning, recovering from house guests and a nasty cold. Bored. So you people get a little of the stream of consciousness that I have to live with day in and day out. Sorry or 'you are welcome' depending on your point of view I guess.

Brian

oh, boy... just when I thought I'm done learning English 

[maxtog]

This isnt the correct value for the median exhaust is it? [photo showing numbers from page 2-27] Shouldnt it be .2169 mm?

I've never done the valve adjust myself, but it's been noted in the past that there is a service manual error and that the manual should say:

[c] Specified Valve Clearance (Mean Value=0.215mm
{Exhaust} 0.145mm {Inlet})

I'm just reporting what I've read in the past, but I haven't done any of the math so is .215 close enough to .2169 ? to say yes to your question?
I don't know.

The previous page says Ex 0.19-0.24mm  In 0.12-0.17.  The means of the two are 0.215 and 0.145... so there is an error on page 2-27 where is says 0.125 and 0.145.  It appears to be a dyslexia (transposition) error.  This is in my 2010-2012 factory manual, 3rd edition Apr 16, 2011.

[kzz1king]

After a bunch of ciphering I determine which size shims I needed. I am getting the Pro X shims from Jake Wilson. Ordered the kit and plugs from Murph.  Only one valve is staying the same. Wanna get it buttoned up before I forget how
Wayne

[kzz1king]

It was going smooth as silk until I double checked clearances after torquing cams about halfway. I had 3 valves with zero tolerance. I must have become dyslexic . I needed 2.250 in there and put in 2.50.

I figure with the past shim at 2.275 and clearance at .127 I had a total of 2.401. Question is did I do any damage? Hate to even ask but ask I must.
Wayne

[kzz1king]

It was going smooth as silk until I double checked clearances after torquing cams about halfway. I had 3 valves with zero tolerance. I must have become dyslexic . I needed 2.250 in there and put in 2.50.

I figure with the past shim at 2.275 and clearance at .127 I had a total of 2.401. Question is did I do any damage? Hate to even ask but ask I must.
Wayne

PSYes I did turn it over with a wrench on end of crank. Turned easy as before.

[maxtog]

Question is did I do any damage? Hate to even ask but ask I must.

Turning the cams with a wrench?  As far as I know, not even remotely possible.  You could have huge positive or negative clearance and still not cause any damage because there is zero compression and no slamming on the buckets  without the engine running.

[sanmo]

PSYes I did turn it over with a wrench on end of crank. Turned easy as before.

Hope you kept going clockwise on the wrench. The temptation to go counter-clock is oh so high when you miss the TDC mark by a hair. 

[freebird6]

I know it is easier to use a sheet of notebook paper and a can to make circles but it would be nice if we made a template for recording the values of the intake and exhaust clearances.

I am taking mine to the dealer in Feb for the first valve job on the newer 2013 while I am laid up from surgery and would like to just give him the preprinted sheet and request that he map his work.

Edit. I should thank anyone who has the computer skillz to do this. I do not. .....maybe I just take the can and make a master and post it.

[gPink]

Try this...

[freebird6]

That's awesome.
I would show you what I just did on WOrd . I was excited to come back and upload it but it is not anywhere near as cool as that one.

[kzz1king]

I had it all written down correctly but ordered 2.50 shims instead of 2.250. I never noticed when I put them in. My concern is that they were so large a piston could have contacted a valve. The downside of not using Big K shims is they are not marked as 30, 33 28 and such.
Wayne