161.5 HP, 175 MPH Dyno Run 2008 C14

[Son of Pappy]

Unfortunately no, that is with TwoBros system but without mapping done and without the flies removed - though it does match Kawasaki Australia's stock claim of 118kw/158hp

I wonder if the shop did an adjustment to read crank HP?  Trust me, I'm not asking for competitive reasons, it's just that 158 is far above any other pipe only mod.  US bikes are listed at 154-at the crank-past stock runs are showing 130s, which is pretty awesome by itself.  Big numbers are an attraction for more buisness and it isn't above operators to manipulate percentages.  To be honest, I was expecting more, but as the operator had nothing to gain I trust his numbers, but I will be looking to validate what I got if for nothing else to satisfy my own curiosity..

What it all boils down to is whethor or not we are happy with what our butt dyno is telling us

FWIW, this was done at some 50 feet ASL.  Fairly cool day, around 68 degrees and %33 percent humidity.  Good conditions for making power

[Glennn]

Don't know to be honest, but when looking at the difference in the numbers (ignoring the numbers themselves) I'm pretty happy to get a 9% increase.  Mind you, it is unknown how bad the bike was running compared to the stock exhaust - you'll see in one of the sheets the bottom end was very rich - so for all I know this map might have just bought it back up to normal par

[Son of Pappy]

But our fuel is typically higher octane than what you guys get (so I am led to believe) which I am sure also helps 

The higher the octane, the lower availble energy/BTUs..  High horespower is often coupled with high compression, which brings a need for higher octane to aid in retarding detonation, hence, higher octane.  Take the FJR as an example, it has a lower compression ratio and a lower octane requirement, which results in less power.

A few years ago we had an awesome thread on octane, eye opening to say the least.

Don't know to be honest, but when looking at the difference in the numbers (ignoring the numbers themselves) I'm pretty happy to get a 9% increase.  Mind you, it is unknown how bad the bike was running compared to the stock exhaust - you'll see in one of the sheets the bottom end was very rich - so for all I know this map might have just bought it back up to normal par

I agree %100

[Glennn]

FWIW we run 98 octane round these here parts 

[ZG]

Not to be a party pooper but "gain" is really the number you want to focus on, which requires a base line run on the same dyno. There are just too many factors that come into play that can make different dyno's show different numbers...

Glennn has about the same gain % as I got (baseline to after mods), roughly 10%. 

Regardless though, cool vid Chet! 

[Son of Pappy]

Yep, gain is where the game is won.  I thought it was kinda cool to do it with the bags and box on, something differant   I stopped recording after a bit, I wish I had the last run, so smooth and it got there in such a hurry

[maxtog]

Doesn't say specifically:

That is crank, not wheel.
 

But our fuel is typically higher octane than what you guys get (so I am led to believe) which I am sure also helps 

The higher the octane, the LOWER the power potential is in the same engine that does not require more octane...

[maxtog]

The higher the octane, the lower availble energy/BTUs..  High horespower is often coupled with high compression, which brings a need for higher octane to aid in retarding detonation, hence, higher octane.  Take the FJR as an example, it has a lower compression ratio and a lower octane requirement, which results in less power.

A few years ago we had an awesome thread on octane, eye opening to say the least.

I agree %100

I posted before reading ahead, again.  But I left it in because it is nice to see us post the same info.

[maxtog]

Not to be a party pooper but "gain" is really the number you want to focus on, which requires a base line run on the same dyno. There are just too many factors that come into play that can make different dyno's show different numbers...

+1

Dyno's are not all accurate nor the same (for one thing).  It is best to look at the change across multiple runs on the same dyno.

[Son of Pappy]

I posted before reading ahead, again.  But I left it in because it is nice to see us post the same info.

[Cuda]

One of these days I'm going to get my bike dynoed with the mods I've made, the question is will the power commander/ Auto tune work with the flashed Guhl ECU ? I don't want to remove my flys, but I like the Auto tune idea?
do you disconect the ECU so the control of the flys is gone?
 or does that still work with the commcnder/auto tune?

[gPink]

Yes pc/autotune will still do the same job after the reflash but with diminishing returns.

[Barry]

FWIW my 08 has PC-V, Autotune, Full Area P, Filter, flys out, and it shows 150hp at the wheel, which is about right for those mods.

At the OP, if you ride a stock one then get back on yours, you will be amazed.  Me and a buddy swapped and stock felt like a moped compared to a modded C14.  He said his butt dyno indicated his pulled as hard in 4th as mine now does in 6th.  Sounds about right.  The two big gains are grunt down low and a very, very crisp throttle.

Good mods !

Barry

[Cuda]

Well that's good to know
So after the dyno If I'm near 150hp I'll let it be
Seams like the ZX TBs are the next step.

[Barry]

Well that's good to know
So after the dyno If I'm near 150hp I'll let it be
Seams like the ZX TBs are the next step.

I was in a lather to do the TBs next.  Then I started hearing about minor bottom end loss, and I have no desire now.  It's a street bike, with luggage.  How fast do I really need it to be?  So mine is done.  I'm into mods for comfort and convenience now.   Also, I bought mine from a guy here that did all the power mods, so it was done, tuned, etc. when I got it.  I just tweaked the map a couple times and I'm good to go.

Barry

[Son of Pappy]

I guess I'm lucky, no loss, pure gain.  Well, when she sells I will lose, but it will be someone's gain

[cablebandit]

But our fuel is typically higher octane than what you guys get (so I am led to believe) which I am sure also helps 

Nope.  Your octane is measured as RON over here in the US we use AKI or R+M/2

You're pump number may appear higher but its the same "octane".