Author Topic: Removing the Rear Wheel and Lubing the Splines (Read 9717 times)

iMotoPilot · « **on:** June 10, 2011, 02:35:05 PM »

Noobie questions: I recently replaced the rear tire and have notice some oil seepage from the final drive. I wanted to know how easy it should be to remove/reinstall the rear wheel by myself and what seals should I replace/other items should I grease while in there? What kind of grease?

throb · « **Reply #1 on:** June 10, 2011, 06:09:35 PM »

Me thinks theres an o ring in there somewhere that can be nicked pretty easily and cause this. Pretty certain more experienced voices will chime in soon.

Pfloydgad · « **Reply #2 on:** June 10, 2011, 07:26:26 PM »

It is a very straight forward, pull the rear caliper off the rotor first. Revmove the left can.
Pull the axle and watch the spacers and metal o-ring that is on the driver side of the axle.
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the pig on, there is a spacer that fits on the end of the shaft drive. The o-ring is up toward where the spacer slips on the shaft. That is usually the one that leaks, and the spring that is compressed in the hook-up connection of the shaft and the pig splines
. It seems dificult, but once you have it apart it will be gravy.
While your doing this, pull the metal ring that holds the rear wheel coupler to the rear hub, pull the coupler that the pig slots into and inspect the spines on the coupler. If good, re-grease and put back together. The coupler is a wear item and is easily replacable, and a lot cheaper then the pig gears.
Oh yea, get the Clymer manual, and everything I just explained is in pictures.
You can do this, I know you can.
Ride safe all.
Greg

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #3 on:** June 11, 2011, 08:41:58 AM »

Is the driver side of the axle on the opposite side of the passenger side?
Which part is called the 'pig'? The whole final drive?
I apologize , I am not familiar with some of these terms.
Is the 'O' ring part # 92055C or 92055 that normally leaks?
I know you have to be careful with the housing 41046 because it has an oiler hole and it has to be aligned with the corresponding oil supply hole in the final drive housing.
http://tinyurl.com/6y8rgy3

Boomer343 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 11, 2011, 10:36:14 AM »

Has someone filled or refilled the gear oil in the Final Drive? If it is even slightly overfilled it will leak. To check put the bike on the center stand, lift the front wheel up until the rear wheel is touching the ground and remove the oil filler cap. Fluid should be just touching the lower threads. Best to have the bike sit for awhile and don't rotate the rear wheel as it will affect the oil level.

The O ring that is easily cut is the 92055 that fits onto coupling 42034.

I would strongly advise pulling the spline drive out of the rear wheel by removing the large snap ring and cleaning out the old lube. If moly paste was used it will look dry and a little crusty. Most people use Honda Moly 60, BMW has a Moly 90, I like to use Ford PTFE Lubricant mixed with a little Lucas Red N Tacky #2 grease. I would also suggest replacing the O ring that the spline drive fits over, # 671B2580. It is a wear item.

Taking the rear wheel off....you need a 27 mm socket ( 1 1/16) and bar to remove the nut as it should have been torqued to 81 ft lbs.
If you don't remove the right side muffler as well you will need to drop the swing arm by unbolting the shock absorber. For a first time removing both mufflers is probably easier. Watch how the parts fit together and keep them in order.

The Red n Tacky can be used on the driveshaft splines.

Pig is the silver colored final drive. Left and right is taken from the drivers position on the bike.

Cybercraig · « **Reply #5 on:** June 11, 2011, 05:31:10 PM »

Stick a 2x4 under the center stand and you'll have plenty of clearance.

iMotoPilot · « **Reply #6 on:** June 12, 2011, 10:27:37 AM »

Awesome information fellas! Will give this a shot after ordering the seals. So I have this straight in my head (removing the rear wheel): Place bike on center stand (possibly using 2x4 for more elevation), remove the axel, remove the "Pig" and then wheel rolls out?

Cheers!

Cybercraig · « **Reply #7 on:** June 12, 2011, 11:07:54 AM »

Well, not exactly. You'll still have to angle the wheel out even with a 2x4 under the center stand. Just take your time with the mufflers and work them out easy to save the gaskets.

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #8 on:** June 12, 2011, 04:26:57 PM »

Quote from: Cybercraig on June 12, 2011, 11:07:54 AM

Well, not exactly. You'll still have to angle the wheel out even with a 2x4 under the center stand. Just take your time with the mufflers and work them out easy to save the gaskets.

I can roll the wheel and final drive out as one unit without anything under the center stand.

iMotoPilot · « **Reply #9 on:** June 13, 2011, 01:33:54 PM »

Daytona Mike - So the wheel and the final drive comes out as one unit? Best to drain the gear oil in the final drive before hand right? LOL

Thanks again everyone!

timsatx · « **Reply #10 on:** June 13, 2011, 02:39:50 PM »

When I take off my tire I like to roll the front tire on a 2x4 and then place a 2x4 and something a tad smaller under the center stand. Makes it much easier to remove the tire. There is absolutely no way I can remove the rear tire without doing that.

iMotoPilot · « **Reply #11 on:** June 23, 2011, 10:40:20 AM »

Fellas,

Im embarrassed to say that I'm having trouble reinstalling my rear wheel. What should be the proper order. With/without the "pig" on? Should it assemble fairly easy? The manual is not that clear for this first timer.

Thx again

TjTexasJack · « **Reply #12 on:** June 23, 2011, 03:10:27 PM »

While you can do it either way I perfer to install the Pig first in that I feel it helps ya not to bogger up the O-ring in there.

http://www.kawasakiofcarrollton.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=395623&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=1986&fveh=9092 Part 92055 o-ring.

With the pig on reach across the swing arm from clutch side lift and engage on splines the tire will hang there while ya run around to put axle in. Note I usually hold the tire up with a fulcum made of 2x2 pinion point and 1x4 lever. put the 2x2 cross wise to tire and slide the 1x4 under untill snug. I usually tap it in with my foot while holding tire.

Do not try and push it on from the throttle side or you run the chance and damaging main pig seal Part 92049a (see link above). DKMHIK lol

Clear as mud? Good luck.
Tj

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #13 on:** June 23, 2011, 07:52:14 PM »

That $25 part is $17 at Ron's.
I do not see how you can booger that 'O' ring since it is captured internally and you cannot get to it otherwise so no boogering unless I am missing something.

I have no choice, pig has to come off. Pig on is harder. Pig off... easy!

BeerKnurd posted the same question on the other site. Read.
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,27542.0.html

iMotoPilot · « **Reply #14 on:** June 24, 2011, 08:11:41 PM »

On the floor of my garage and I cannot seem to find a way to fit the spacer and that swing brace on the throttle side. Pulled the "pig" final drive, a little final drive fluid dripped out of the end that fits into the shaft. Normal?

Leo · « **Reply #15 on:** June 24, 2011, 08:22:49 PM »

Loosen the 4 bolts that holds the rear bevel drive to the swing arm propellor shaft tube. That will get you a little wiggle room. Be sure to tighten them back up after you get the axle and spacer in and before you tighten the axle. Good Luck

iMotoPilot · « **Reply #16 on:** June 24, 2011, 09:33:43 PM »

Thank you Leo!

That did it!

Dan · « **Reply #17 on:** June 26, 2011, 08:48:52 AM »

Thanks guys, this is a bit of a sticky job.....

Thanks for the info..

Dan

Dan · « **Reply #18 on:** June 26, 2011, 08:46:47 PM »

I simply removed the exhaust, pulled the rim and tire, lubed the external splines, changed the tire, balanced the wheel, replaced tire, and rim, tightened bolts, piece of cake... lubed the splines and axle while it was out, and after replacing checked the rear oil, it looked great only had 5k on it, and was rt up to the lower level threads. perfect, did I miss something..

The exhaust was sooo easy to remove. it was simple...
and I had to start it up for 10 seconds with no exhaust, it was very very very loud... lol

Ok ltr
Dan

kzz1king · « **Reply #19 on:** June 26, 2011, 08:58:27 PM »

For clarification are we talking 2 sets of splines that should be lubed at tire change? One on the wheel and the other on the end of driveshaft?

Wayne

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Author Topic: Removing the Rear Wheel and Lubing the Splines (Read 9717 times)