May be worth a look at Switchback LEDs Take 2 for a possible alternative.

If you want an OEM type fitment checkout Gixerhps kit


--Original Post follows--


First off you need the LEDs, I bought mine from the bay of fleas

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262493706731?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

(NB these have the wrong end connectors but thats not a problem, just snip them off)

Next Up Prep the bike

1) remove the middle inner fairing panel (the one under the nose cone used to access the parking lights)
2) remove 2 screws from each of the inner radiator airflow guide  trim panels and remove them
3) depending on the size of you hand or if you want to create a little more room remove the front 1 or 2 screws from the outside of the fairing along the middle
4) remove the bulb holders from the front indicator lenses


Ok so at this point there are several different methods of splicing into the existing wiring depending on where you are on the Mcgyver scale, this was how I did it.

5) taking the 2 wires from the ballast resistors to the supplied connector , straighten the wire and pull them out then twist and force them into the back of the square connector supplied by Mr Kawaskai.
6) Test the indicator flashes, if it doesn't swap the wires around. Once working tape upto secure
7) take out one of the city/parking lights and push the red lead until the connector starts coming out of the rubber.
take one end of the patch lead supplied in the kit (the end with a fuse on) , and using a blunt object push the stripped end into the same hole as the red cable you just played with.
9) after carefully positioning the stripped end push the red connector back into the rubber and for good measure apply a touch of tape at the back for extra security
10) The fun bit. Getting the new LEDs into the Lenses. The rubber boots supplied are smaller than  the hole and obviously don't have bayonet fittings. Once again you have options. My method was very crude and involved building up with gaffer tape before pushing in securely and then applying a bit more gaffer tape to the back (you're never going to see this so doesn't need to be pretty)
11) Tidy up all the loose cables using tape/zipties or whatever then pop all the panels back on


end result?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBZ_SuNQnAc

Just noticed, my GTR has a "face"

 

That is incredibly neat!!!  Thanks for sharing what you did and the video with it.  It some ways, it is better than what I did:  http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2236.0

1) You don't have to replace the flasher
2) You don't have to build a custom relay pack to reverse the lights and then mount that somewhere.  Overall a faster install.
3) Coolness factor of the two colors
4) Less expensive

But the way I did it:

1) No delay after flashing, since the turn signal just flashes the lights OFF instead of on
2) No load resistors needed, so no need to mount those or waste power
3) Probably not as bright as my outcome, although that is hard to say... might be as good
4) No fitment problems with the bulbs
5) Solid state flasher, so it is compatible with standard LED and standard incandescent replacement bulbs, not something proprietary.
6) Certainly legal, since yellow is allowed on sides.  Not so sure about the white, which is questionable (new cars that do this color change don't have the white showing on the sides, they have separate side markers that are yellow).
7) Yellow for the running lights, although not as "cool" is more conspicuous because there is better contrast with the white headlights.  This offers a better visual footprint and possibly enhanced safety.

Both methods require access to the bulbs, which is a pain, and some splicing (power source).  But the safety factor is a huge win for adding running lights, period.

Good job.  I will link to my other thread.

Cheers Max,

You could even with this install cut those resistors out and use an upgraded flasher(or fit physically smaller ones!), I just went with what came

With a bit more time and disassembly I'm sure there's a much neater method of fitting them in he lenses as well

As you  say , these are borderline on the legality front but who cares That said I am thinking of fitting an inline switch so they can be turned off at night or for MOT time

You could even with this install cut those resistors out and use an upgraded flasher(or fit physically smaller ones!), I just went with what came

I wasn't sure if the circuitry in them required the resistors for anything or if they were just there for the flasher switch.  I have been extremely happy with the solid state flasher replacement I used.  I wish I had that when I first did my project.

With a bit more time and disassembly I'm sure there's a much neater method of fitting them in the lenses as well

Maybe if you could find some type of adapter, but it would be a strange thing to find.  As long as they don't pop out/work their way out and it keeps moisture out, it really doesn't matter.

As you  say , these are borderline on the legality front but who cares That said I am thinking of fitting an inline switch so they can be turned off at night or for MOT time

Having a way to turn the DRL part off for inspections could be useful    I have never had any of my bikes inspected, though (yes, I know it is a ticket risk... but police [here at least] rarely bother checking for inspection stickers on motorcycles, they seem to only care about registration and license; at least if the bike LOOKS decent).

May be worth a look at Switchback LEDs Take 2 for a possible alternative.

If you want an OEM type fitment checkout Gixerhps kit


--Original Post follows--


First off you need the LEDs, I bought mine from the bay of fleas

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262493706731?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

(NB these have the wrong end connectors but thats not a problem, just snip them off)

Next Up Prep the bike

1) remove the middle inner fairing panel (the one under the nose cone used to access the parking lights)
2) remove 2 screws from each of the inner radiator airflow guide  trim panels and remove them
3) depending on the size of you hand or if you want to create a little more room remove the front 1 or 2 screws from the outside of the fairing along the middle
4) remove the bulb holders from the front indicator lenses


Ok so at this point there are several different methods of splicing into the existing wiring depending on where you are on the Mcgyver scale, this was how I did it.

5) taking the 2 wires from the ballast resistors to the supplied connector , straighten the wire and pull them out then twist and force them into the back of the square connector supplied by Mr Kawaskai.
6) Test the indicator flashes, if it doesn't swap the wires around. Once working tape upto secure
7) take out one of the city/parking lights and push the red lead until the connector starts coming out of the rubber.
take one end of the patch lead supplied in the kit (the end with a fuse on) , and using a blunt object push the stripped end into the same hole as the red cable you just played with.
9) after carefully positioning the stripped end push the red connector back into the rubber and for good measure apply a touch of tape at the back for extra security
10) The fun bit. Getting the new LEDs into the Lenses. The rubber boots supplied are smaller than  the hole and obviously don't have bayonet fittings. Once again you have options. My method was very crude and involved building up with gaffer tape before pushing in securely and then applying a bit more gaffer tape to the back (you're never going to see this so doesn't need to be pretty)
11) Tidy up all the loose cables using tape/zipties or whatever then pop all the panels back on


end result?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBZ_SuNQnAc

Just noticed, my GTR has a "face"

Thank You sir!

Thanks for the informative post.  My Concours was totaled, but your mod looks really good on my 2015 Triumph Trophy.

Although the Connie is gone, this board still has great ideas that I steal and modify for the TTSE


Thanks again!