Kawasaki Concours Forum

The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Kwikasfuki on June 28, 2014, 08:15:52 AM

Title: Tank bolt torque
Post by: Kwikasfuki on June 28, 2014, 08:15:52 AM
Anyone know how tight the tank bolts should be? Can't see it in the manual.

The fuel pump bolts are given as 9.8(nm) 1.0(kgf.m) 87 inĀ·lb  - should I aim for roughly the same?

Just finished replacing the fuel pump strainer. Expect a guide later today. Took so many pics the camera battery has died so waiting on that to charge up.

Title: Re: Tank bolt torque
Post by: VirginiaJim on June 28, 2014, 10:47:46 AM
Not in my service manual either.  I would just tighten them with a 3/8 ratchet until they're tight.  They're not that big a bolt.  There should be a table in the service manual for basic torque depending on the size of the fastener in Periodic Maintenance section, though.
Title: Re: Tank bolt torque
Post by: jwh20 on June 28, 2014, 11:02:28 AM
I don't have my manual handy but isn't there a section at the front that gives the default torques based on fastener size?  I think I recall seeing that in there.

But my rule is, if in doubt, UNDER-tighten and use some loctite or similar product to ensure it doesn't come loose later.  Of course for critical items (axle nuts, brake rotor bolts, fork tube clamp bolts, etc.) you want to make sure you find the right torque and follow that carefully. 
Title: Re: Tank bolt torque
Post by: Rembrant on June 28, 2014, 11:08:16 AM
As tight as you can get them with a 1/4" drive ratchet is plenty.

All four of those bolts are unusually long, so as long as they're snugged up they'll never fall out;).

Rem
Title: Re: Tank bolt torque
Post by: B.D.F. on June 28, 2014, 12:17:02 PM
Yeah, what Cory said. The way I tighten those small, incidental screws around the bike is to use a socket and a screwdriver type driver. Treat it like it was a Philips head screw, 'snug it up' and all will be well without any possibility of over-tightening it IMO.

Brian

As tight as you can get them with a 1/4" drive ratchet is plenty.

All four of those bolts are unusually long, so as long as they're snugged up they'll never fall out;).

Rem
Title: Re: Tank bolt torque
Post by: Rembrant on June 29, 2014, 04:24:41 AM
Yeah, what Cory said. The way I tighten those small, incidental screws around the bike is to use a socket and a screwdriver type driver. Treat it like it was a Philips head screw, 'snug it up' and all will be well without any possibility of over-tightening it IMO.

Brian

Yup, I use my 1/4" drive ratchet ALL the time when working on bikes. You will not strip a bolt, or aluminum threads with a 1/4" drive....there's just not enough leverage there, but there's plenty of leverage to get M5, M6, and many M8 sized bolts and screws as tight as they need to be.

Speaking of tools and leverage, during my first job out of college as an industrial tech, many years ago now, I worked for this old guy named Mike. He was close to retirement and had spent two and a half decades in the engine room of an oil tanker that made runs to South America and back. He told me that when they started work in the engine room, all those years before, new mechanics were not allowed to use ratchets for the first whole year of employment...lol. They had to prove themselves worthy with the wrenches before they were able to graduate to ratchets. He used to worry every time he saw one of us working with a ratchet..."You're gonna strip that bolt" he'd say....lol, "why don't you use a wrench". A 1/2" drive ratchet was like the devil's hand to him...lol.

To this day, over 20 years later, I STILL use wrenches way more often than I should. 8)

Rem :o
Title: Re: Tank bolt torque
Post by: rocknrod on June 29, 2014, 07:07:12 PM
Yep I had an old Master Chief I worked for and whenever he saw someone with a crescent wrench he would throw it over the side of the ship.
Young guys would easily round the heads off bolts with them all the time. He called them "Georgia micrometers"  ;D