So after her winter nap I go to start and have nothing.

[dl1911]

dbird29

Yes I have attempted a passive key start.

[Freddy]

dl, it's 'interesting' that the red is behaving like that.

I don't have access to the FSM or Owners manual at the moment but if the red light is flashing the immobiliser is active. 

As we know, the red light will stop flashing after 24 hrs when the bike is parked.

[dl1911]

Freddy,

While I agree with your statement I am curious that if the immobilizer is still active would the KiPass function normally allowing the ignition switch to operate normally? The micro switch turns the dash on and activates the selonoid to turn the switch. If the immobilizer was still active wouldn't it prevent this from happening?

It also sends power to the ECU and allows the motor to crank.

[Freddy]

l don't know the answer.  The immobiliser/red light is controlled by the KIPASS ECU to my understanding, whereas the fuel system, including spark and fuel pump, is controlled by the Fl ECU.  The symptoms your bike displays don't make sense to me - but it is what it is.  Consequently, it will be a trial and error thing to fix, unless a more knowledgeable person has a better way forward, perhaps Michelle.   I'd replace the Fl ECU firstly. 

[Michelle]

The biggest problem here is having the KDS at hand and the bike half a world away. 

Dave,
To refresh my understanding, you now have the kipass working normally? You can depress the key and turn on the ignition using either the fob or the passive like you could before you put it to bed for winter? Without bypassing the spring.
You are at a crank no start situation which you believe is no spark. How are you checking for spark?

Meantime I'll have another look through the KDS manual and see if we can work out the flashing security light.

[dl1911]

Michelle,

Yes the KiPass is working the way it should. Press the key down and the micro switch activates, turns the dash on and activates the selonoid releasing the key. At that point the fuel pump runs and the motor will crank over.

When the motor cranks, I put a stethoscope on the injectors to listen for pulse and they are pulsing. Also if you put your nose to the exhaust you can smell gas so I believe the fuel system is working.

I tested the ignition by checking for battery voltage at each coil. I have battery voltage at each one but I do not have the triggering impulse to fire the coil. I initially though maybe the crank trigger wasnt working but after testing that I was proven wrong. Also when I left the crank trigger unhooked and turned the motor over it showed a fault on the dash. As soon as I plugged it back in the fault code went away.

This is telling me that the bike is communicating with the ECU on some systems?

The only thing that seems off is the security light flashing while the bike is cranking. As soon as I come off the starter switch the security light goes out. I dont remember it ever doing that before but the bike always started so maybe I just never noticed it?

Aside from the above I am at a total loss.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Dave

[Big Red]

Maybe back probe the connector at the ECU for the coils? If you've got a reasonably responsive meter or better yet a pocket oscilloscope, you should be able to see the triggering. If the ECU isn't controlling the coils, it's possible the driver inside died.

[dl1911]

Big Red,

I dont know that the meter I have is responsive enough to pick up that signal. It is a Fluke Automotive Unit.

Im not objective to buying a pocket oscilloscope but I have no idea on how to use one. Is it a complicated process?

I like this idea as it is testing the actual ECU.

Thanks, Dave

[Big Red]

Some Fluke automotive meters can do pulse width and duty cycle. That would be enough to check the ECU output. If you do want a pocket DSO, they're pretty easy to learn to get waveforms to display. Here's a cheapo model. https://a.co/d/61eNX6I

[dl1911]

Big Red,

Thanks I will look into that.

[zrx mitch]

KISS

What would you have done in years past? Put a plug in the coil cap and place it appropriately so that you can see if the plug is firing.

[dbird29]

That o-scope should work on seeing if the ECU is receiving the trigger signal and pulling the coil and watching the plug for spark is a great idae. You seem real close to a solution.

[dl1911]

dbird29,

I have no reason to believe that the ECU is not getting the trigger signal as the both the cam and crank sensors checked out. However I believe that possibly the ECU is not sending the signal to the coils. If that makes sense?

Info going in but not coming back out.

I have been warned about pulling and holding a plug to see if there is spark due to the fact that ECU electronics are very sensitive and if while holding a plug I lost and then gained contact the interruption could cause damage to the ECU?

I am almost positive that there is no spark happening at all because the bike make zero effort to start or pop or anything.

Keep the ideas coming guys I appreciate it very much.

[Freddy]

You can pull a coil, poke another plug into it, earth it and see what you get.