Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: bhodge10 on February 25, 2012, 09:55:43 AM
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It's for an 08.
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I install a new one every oil change.
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To replace the old one? 52000 miles and only on second washer and that was only because I installed a mag drain plug. Nary a drop leaked. Maybe it's a combination of KIPASS and the Lucas full syn. I run ;D I do check it each time I change the oil.
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They cost something like 30 cents each...... why wouldn't you change it?
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I agree, it is probably not necessary to change each time, but for a few cents I know I get a good seal each time. You could probably use the original one for a long time and have no trouble, just something I prefer to do.
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They need to be changed?
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They need to be changed?
It is pretty standard practice to replace oil pan crush washers with each use. That said, I rarely replace them and have never had any leaks. They are cheap and easy to replace, but can be a hassle if you don't have one. Generally, nothing bad will happen, but they are designed to deform with each use, and at some point will not seal properly. This is why most manufacturers call for replacing them each time.
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put me in the camp of always replacing the crush ring...they are so cheap...why not replace it...sometimes I get them thrown in for free when I buy the filter.
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Almost not needed whatsoever IMHO, maybe after about 10 oil changes I would install a new one.
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They need to be changed?
Only when you lose them.....
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yes...
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Only if you're one of those crazy people that follow the service manual and use a torque wrench. Otherwise, just trade it in every few years and let someone else spit out pieces of their broken luck!
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Only when you lose them.....
Right on! :rotflmao:
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Only when you find it in the drain pan after you have already installed the bolt with the new fluids... >:(
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I didn't think so and haven't used one in quite a few oil changes. The other day I found an oil lead from the drain plug. Got me a mess of crush washers, actually brass seal washers from McMaster Carr and installed with just a little loss of oil and the leak has stopped. Now I have enough for 150,000 miles ;)
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The term "crush washer" is incorrect. It is just a plain flat aluminum washer and you need to replace it only if you see a visible groove cut in it by the drain plug bolt head. This should not happen if you do not overtighten the drain plug.
A "crush washer" is one that actually flattens as you tighten the drain plug. Many Nissan vehicles have those. I have it on my Suzuki Bandit 1250S.
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The aluminim washer on the drain plugs on C-14s really do 'crush' or deform. Mine are original and are now extruded enough that the washer does not turn or move against the screw, and it is getting a bit bigger in diameter too.
Nothing wrong with changing them but I have not done it yet and no leaks so far after something like 25 oil changes.
Brian
The term "crush washer" is incorrect. It is just a plain flat aluminum washer and you need to replace it only if you see a visible groove cut in it by the drain plug bolt head. This should not happen if you do not overtighten the drain plug.
A "crush washer" is one that actually flattens as you tighten the drain plug. Many Nissan vehicles have those. I have it on my Suzuki Bandit 1250S.
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To replace the old one? 52000 miles and only on second washer and that was only because I installed a mag drain plug. Nary a drop leaked. Maybe it's a combination of KIPASS and the Lucas full syn. I run ;D I do check it each time I change the oil.
You only changed your oil twice in 52000 miles? ;)
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You only changed your oil twice in 52000 miles? ;)
Heck, my first change was under a hundred miles on the odo, I used a coffee filter to see shat came out, lots of silver color for sure, I dumped the still good oil in the backhoe and some nice fresh Lucas full syn. I change the oil as soon as shifting starts feeling notchy or before a big trip. I also change after a hard day at the track, WFO, brakes and back to WFO. Repeat. Sometimes we even blow by the man made coned chicane at lunch time. Makes for some quick laps and gets the heart rate up there.
O, I use the Harley method, add as needed :P
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The OP asked if a crush washer is required, the asnwer is yes, as stated by m919.
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If we answered the question straight up, I mean, what's the point of that? It's no fun at all that way. Sigh.
So looking at the part's fiche (readily available on numerous web sites) it does show a washer being involved with the bolt in an intimate relationship. The final drive drain requires one as well. I think the coolant drain has one too. Anything that has a fluid drain bolt generally has a washer involved.
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Can this washer be purchased at any auto store or is it a specific one for the bike that you'll need to get from a dealer? My dealer has them for $1 but they're closed till Tuesday and I might want to change the oil today.
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No magic in this washer. Any washer of correct size and intended for this use will work. Steel will not as it is harder than the mating surfaces and will not give the slight deformation required to make the seal. Use the old one. If it has ridged you can use fine emory cloth or sand paper to smooth the surfaces of the washer. It will be fine. Go ride.
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These are real "crush washers" used on Nissan vehicles. Some motorcycles also use similar washers for the oil drain plug:
(http://www.thenismoshop.com/assets/images/pu_11026-01m02.jpg)
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I've been riding since 1965, I change oil every 2 to 3 thousand miles. Have never replaced one, and haven't had any leaks because of the washer being too flat
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Looks like I'll pick up a couple, they are only a $1 a piece. Thanks all.
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Looks like I'll pick up a couple, they are only a $1 a piece. Thanks all.
Whatever gives you peace of mind. 8)
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Everybody seems to think the purpose of the aluminum washer is to provide an oil seal. I always thought it was to protect the aluminum pan from being damaged by the steel drain bolt.
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A steel washer would work fine on an aluminum pan as long as it was smooth and had no sharp surfaces to dig into the aluminum.
The crush washer is there to deform (crush) to any imperfections in the bolt head and / or bottom of the oil pan. Any moderately soft material will do although soft aluminum and copper are used most frequently. Aluminum is less expensive of course so that is why it is used almost everywhere as a crush washer other than on brake connections, which are almost always copper or soft brass.
Another thing that works well is a drain bolt with a groove for an O-ring in the face. The O-ring seals with minimal pressure and actually lasts a surprisingly long time but most people greatly over tighten them; the oil filler on the engine and final drive of the C-14 are good examples of both an O-ring sealed cap and a point where people greatly over tighten them.
Brian
Everybody seems to think the purpose of the aluminum washer is to provide an oil seal. I always thought it was to protect the aluminum pan from being damaged by the steel drain bolt.
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What about one made of some kind of special wood? :-\
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I don't think it would seal very well, I'm afraid.
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I don't think it would seal very well, I'm afraid.
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/facepalm.gif) Oh Sparky... you're losing it man. Where's Brian when I need him?? (http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/wait.gif)
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What about one made of some kind of special wood? :-\
Ebony wood? ;D
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Amboyan Burl! There, I said it. Are you happy?
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Amboyan Burl! There, I said it. Are you happy?
There we go Sparky!! :) :thumbs: :hail: :grouphug:
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GM uses a special rubber washer (not flat) just under the head of the drain plug on many vehicles. There is a recess machined under the head and that's where the washer fits. It elastically deforms as you tighten the drain plug, and seals quite well.