Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Damn Potholes on March 03, 2012, 01:34:17 PM
-
Hey all,
I just released a new set of risers that'll give you an upright riding position but cost way less than the Helibar setup. They give a full 1 1/2 inch pullback compared to stock. They'll work on 2010-current. Sorry to everyone that has an '08 or '09. The problem comes with the location of the "glovebox" on those models. Just no way around it. Its an easy install. Instructions are at the bottom of the description. http://www.advancedsporttouring.com/Concours_Risers_p/c14-03.htm (http://www.advancedsporttouring.com/Concours_Risers_p/c14-03.htm). I put 3,000 miles on them without issue. Two color choices for brake spacers.
Let me know what you think.
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/1400GTR Riser 3-1.JPG)
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/IMG_0807-1.JPG)
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/IMG_08020-1.jpg)
-
Those look nice. Anyone know if the 2010 cover will bolt on to a 2009?
-
Those look nice. Anyone know if the 2010 cover will bolt on to a 2009?
I've had a few people email me that question. The local dealership sold the '08 I was using to test parts so I can't answer that question but if there's any '08-'09s around Waterford, Michigan I'd buy the '10 center assembly to try it out. I'd make it worth your while.
Ryan
-
I replaced the glovebox on my '08 with a '10 cover. The forward mount holes line up. I had to make an offset bracket for the rear. I split a length of vacuum hose for bottom edge trim for the cover.
-
Can you possibly post a few photos? Thanks
-
I just released a new set of risers that'll give you an upright riding position but cost way less than the Helibar setup. They give a full 1 1/2 inch pullback compared to stock.
(Note, they actually cost MORE than the Helibars Pilot risers. He is referring to the very expensive Helibars Horizons)
They look very interesting and is twice the pullback of the Helibars Pilot (3/4"). However, the Heli's are 2" rise (claimed), not just 1 1/8" (and RAM mount/powerlet options). But the greater pullback of yours might be just what people need, more than height.
-
Can you possibly post a few photos? Thanks
There are plenty on the site link he provided...
-
(Note, they actually cost MORE than the Helibars Pilot risers. He is referring to the very expensive Helibars Horizons)
They look very interesting and is twice the pullback of the Helibars Pilot (3/4"). However, the Heli's are 2" rise (claimed), not just 1 1/8" (and RAM mount/powerlet options). But the greater pullback of yours might be just what people need, more than height.
Your right, I was referring to the Horizons.
The 2" rise that they and everyone else that has a set of 2" risers claim is actually just the height of the risers themselves, not the actual amount of rise they give you. Because of the angle of the triple tree, 2 inches of riser doesn't equal 2 inches of rise because the handlebars are rising and moving towards the rider instead of going straight up. On the link I provided, I detailed how this calculates out. Before I designed my own, I was using a set of their 2" risers so I was able to use theirs to confirm this calculation.
As for the Ram Mount option, I have one coming out in the next couple weeks. CAD work just got finished on friday and I'm waiting on the quotes. Mine won't be attaching to the risers, but a location much more fitting for mounting a GPS...actually, it will be in any of 6 locations I'll announce when I have finished product in hand. Let's just say it'll put the GPS directly in line of sight.
-
Basically, these are anyone's standard 2 inch risers but with the top inch moved back towards the rider.
-
Nice! I built a 2 piece version for my bike but doing it in one piece looks much cleaner. I have a long torso and these made all the difference for me. This is what made the bike a long distance touring bike for me.
(http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac177/sreinschmidt/risers.jpg)
-
Oh and BTW, these are a bargain at $175. To make mine myself I had to first buy 2" risers, $100 (MCL I think). A friend gave me the aluminum blocks but they were too thick so I paid $40 for a machine shop to plain them down to 1" for me. Then another $42 for the counter bore tool, then another couple of hours drilling and cutting the corners. If these were available 2 years ago I would have bought them in a heart beat.
-
The 2" rise that they and everyone else that has a set of 2" risers claim is actually just the height of the risers themselves, not the actual amount of rise they give you. Because of the angle of the triple tree, 2 inches of riser doesn't equal 2 inches of rise because the handlebars are rising and moving towards the rider instead of going straight up. On the link I provided, I detailed how this calculates out. Before I designed my own, I was using a set of their 2" risers so I was able to use theirs to confirm this calculation.
All makes perfect sense. Had your model been available a year ago, I probably would have chosen them over the Helibars. I have a long torso and short arms/legs (and also RSI/CTS/etc). Without the risers, the bike is unrideable. Once I ALSO added Phil's Wedges, all my problems then disappeared like magic. It looks like the Wedges would be compatible with your model, also; although getting all the right bolt lengths would be a challenge.
I might be a good candidate for the Horizons, too. But even more than the expense, they are a pretty major ordeal/operation to install. And if not liked, going backwards is just as much work.
-
There are plenty on the site link he provided...
Thanks for pointing out the obvious, my request was directed to the post just prior to me where someone replaced their cover with a 2010+
-
All makes perfect sense. Had your model been available a year ago, I probably would have chosen them over the Helibars. I have a long torso and short arms/legs (and also RSI/CTS/etc). Without the risers, the bike is unrideable. Once I ALSO added Phil's Wedges, all my problems then disappeared like magic. It looks like the Wedges would be compatible with your model, also; although getting all the right bolt lengths would be a challenge.
I might be a good candidate for the Horizons, too. But even more than the expense, they are a pretty major ordeal/operation to install. And if not liked, going backwards is just as much work.
I had the same problems when I first got my connie. I tried a bunch of different risers and couldn't get enough pullback to ease the pain in my shoulder and elbow. Sidenote: Remodeling a home will turn a perfectly good body into a broken one. So I started prototyping my own. These are the result of a considerable amount of trial and error. They not only have to look good but they have to be safe too.
-
I 've been watching your web site waiting for the pictures , I was going to buy one of yours , and then I went to craigscrawler last night and found a set of used LSL's 1/2 price. Yours look very nice, good luck with the new Ideas.
I'm one that would like to mount a trunk behind my Corbin drivers seat, I talked to Corban about a midsize trunk in place of the rear seat??????
LSL's for under $250! I would be all over that deal like stink on.............. you get the point.
-
Thanks for pointing out the obvious,
Well, people ask for the obvious all the time. :P
my request was directed to the post just prior to me where someone replaced their cover with a 2010+
That is why there is a "quote" function, so it is possible to know which post someone is replying to. :)
-
Sidenote: Remodeling a home will turn a perfectly good body into a broken one. So I started prototyping my own.
OMG- that is exactly what happened to me too. I bought a disaster of a house and spent several years remodeling it. Near the end I developed all kinds of issues :( My house is now worth 400% what I paid for it 22 years ago... but I am not sure it was worth the price.
-
Do you think think that phils wedges would work with these risers? I've really like the change in the angle but still want to be back further than with the murphs risers.
-
It just so happens I have a set of Phil's wedges. I'll try those out in combination with my risers today and let you know.
-
Well, people ask for the obvious all the time. :P
That is why there is a "quote" function, so it is possible to know which post someone is replying to. :)
I assumed that chronological common sense could be applied, I do use the quote function if I am referring to a response that is not directly above my reply. Sorry for the confusion. I see your point and have no interest in a pointless pissing contest over something simple. :thumbs:
-
Do you think think that phils wedges would work with these risers? I've really like the change in the angle but still want to be back further than with the murphs risers.
Phils / Murphs Wedges will work with my pullback risers giving an extra 1/2" of offset / pullback towards the rider for a total of 2 inches of offset / pullback. In the pictures you notice that the clutch line is nearly tight, still has a little slack in it even when the lever is pulled. The brake side has slightly more slack than the clutch side. I can turn the bars from stop to stop without binding. It will require a couple different bolts which I will supply. I'll add an option for the bolts on the webpage today.
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/IMG_0815.JPG)
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/IMG_0816.JPG)
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/IMG_0817.JPG)
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/IMG_0818.JPG)
-
Phils / Murphs Wedges will work with my pullback risers giving an extra 1/2" of offset / pullback towards the rider for a total of 2 inches of offset / pullback. In the pictures you notice that the clutch line is nearly tight, still has a little slack in it even when the lever is pulled. The brake side has slightly more slack than the clutch side. I can turn the bars from stop to stop without binding. It will require a couple different bolts which I will supply. I'll add an option for the bolts on the webpage today.
If possible could you take a photo from a little further away showing the pullback with the wedges? Maybe from the side. Thanks
-
I assumed that chronological common sense could be applied, I do use the quote function if I am referring to a response that is not directly above my reply. Sorry for the confusion. I see your point and have no interest in a pointless pissing contest over something simple. :thumbs:
Agreed. Especially since my original post was not meant to be negative. Dry text can look that way sometimes, though. Sorry.
-
Phils / Murphs Wedges will work with my pullback risers giving an extra 1/2" of offset / pullback towards the rider for a total of 2 inches of offset / pullback. In the pictures you notice that the clutch line is nearly tight, still has a little slack in it even when the lever is pulled. The brake side has slightly more slack than the clutch side. I can turn the bars from stop to stop without binding. It will require a couple different bolts which I will supply. I'll add an option for the bolts on the webpage today.
Oh, I hate you! Now I want to just throw away my Heli's and get yours, instead :(
-
Just a suggestion, as you have spent some time and money here to develope those;
I see that you have created compound angles at the sides of the mount, to allow them to clear the top of the fork caps, might want to consider early on (i.e. now) creating some more "relief" in that area (possibly like a cylindrical recess/cut out/counterbore) to allow those that have the need to lower the front end, the capacity to do so (dropping the trees on the fork tubes and exposing 1/2"-3/4" of the top).
Even though I don't need this option, many here have lowered the suspension, and I have seen broken hadlebars because the did so without realizing the forks were jammed against the bars, flexing them and placing undue stress on them. The current config of your design does not allow for "lowering" the front of the bike. ;)
nice looking machine work though.
:thumbs:
-
Just a suggestion, as you have spent some time and money here to develope those;
I see that you have created compound angles at the sides of the mount, to allow them to clear the top of the fork caps, might want to consider early on (i.e. now) creating some more "relief" in that area (possibly like a cylindrical recess/cut out/counterbore) to allow those that have the need to lower the front end, the capacity to do so (dropping the trees on the fork tubes and exposing 1/2"-3/4" of the top).
Even though I don't need this option, many here have lowered the suspension, and I have seen broken hadlebars because the did so without realizing the forks were jammed against the bars, flexing them and placing undue stress on them. The current config of your design does not allow for "lowering" the front of the bike. ;)
Oooh, that is an extremely good observation. I had to lower MY bike...
-
This took a considerable amount of effort to create. I hope this gives a good representation of what they can do.
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/Comparison 1.jpg)
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/Comparison 2.jpg)
-
Nice looking product and great thread DP! (http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/kwjweiww.gif)
-
This took a considerable amount of effort to create. I hope this gives a good representation of what they can do.
Kewl- that does look like it was a LOT of work. Plus you used the best Concours- the silver 2011 :) Also looks like you kept the bike and camera exactly the same (tripod)- great idea. Did you do all that today??? I would suggest you state the arm length too, since that is not a direct proportion to height. Not sure how one measures that... armpit to fingertips? Those pictures would look quite different if I were sitting on there :O
Plus, I am interested for you to address MAN OF BLUES' comment about the fork tubes...
-
Kewl- that does look like it was a LOT of work. Plus you used the best Concours- the silver 2011 :) Also looks like you kept the bike and camera exactly the same (tripod)- great idea. Did you do all that today??? I would suggest you state the arm length too, since that is not a direct proportion to height. Not sure how one measures that... armpit to fingertips? Those pictures would look quite different if I were sitting on there :O
Plus, I am interested for you to address MAN OF BLUES' comment about the fork tubes...
Yep, all in one day. I gave up Sunday. I used a tripod with the camera set on a timer. My dog just doesn't have the opposable thumbs to work the camera. As for "Man of Blues", he's correct, the 1st generation of Pullback Risers won't allow for lowering the front end...there will be a version 2 which will accomodate this modification. I'll just need to remove a bit more material. It's hard to plan for every possible modification but I'll make it happen. I work with some pretty awesome people. Looks like I'm heading back to the CAD shop but for everyone else, no problem. If someone buys the first generation and later decides to lower their bike, I will swap out 1st Gen for 2nd Gen risers at no cost.
-
:thumbs:
OUTSTANDING PHOTOS!
Maybe someone more proficient can help but these look like the required parts for the conversion, $121.24 with the discount and free shipping. The brackets do not bolt up to the body panels in the same location so that appears to be the only obstacle requiring some light fab work. I look forward to your findings when you get your hands on the 2009. Here is a thread showing the reverse process.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1872.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1872.0)
COVER,FUEL TANK
14092-0112 1 $81.29 $67.07
53044 TRIM
53044-0054 1 $29.02 $25.54
OPTIONAL I GUESS 39156J PAD,CNT
39156-0590 1 $5.44 $4.41
(3)X 92151 BOLT,SOCKET,6X14
92151-1654 3 $1.20 $0.96
(3)X 92022 WASHER,PLAIN,6.5X16X1
92022-1143 3 $2.92 $2.34
11056 BRACKET,RELAY
11056-0152 1 $17.90 $14.32
-
As for "Man of Blues", he's correct, the 1st generation of Pullback Risers won't allow for lowering the front end...there will be a version 2 which will accommodate this modification. I'll just need to remove a bit more material. It's hard to plan for every possible modification but I'll make it happen.
Good job! And yes, it is hard. I *completely* forgot about lowering, and it is crucial to my setup, and maybe others'.
-
Check these out.
They work on 08-12 C14's, are powdercoated to match the stock handlebars and come with all the hardware needed to mount them. $350 for about 3" of rise and a huge 3" pullback.
Neat! Except those also block the fork tubes from being raised (which is necessary if you have to lower the bike)
-
Check these out.
They work on 08-12 C14's, are powdercoated to match the stock handlebars and come with all the hardware needed to mount them. $350 for about 3" of rise and a huge 3" pullback.
Excuse me for being a butthead but is it polite to jump in another man's thread with a like product? You started a thread to sell your stuff as this man did. I've got no other interest other than it seems the wrong way to do business.
-
Excuse me for being a butthead but is it polite to jump in another man's thread with a like product? You started a thread to sell your stuff as this man did. I've got no other interest other than it seems the wrong way to do business.
Thanks gPink, I was trying not to be a dick but its starting to get to me. Another guy did the same thing. Pretty rude.
-
Breath in... Breath out...Move on. 8)
-
Just a suggestion, as you have spent some time and money here to develope those;
I see that you have created compound angles at the sides of the mount, to allow them to clear the top of the fork caps, might want to consider early on (i.e. now) creating some more "relief" in that area (possibly like a cylindrical recess/cut out/counterbore) to allow those that have the need to lower the front end, the capacity to do so (dropping the trees on the fork tubes and exposing 1/2"-3/4" of the top).
Even though I don't need this option, many here have lowered the suspension, and I have seen broken hadlebars because the did so without realizing the forks were jammed against the bars, flexing them and placing undue stress on them. The current config of your design does not allow for "lowering" the front of the bike. ;)
nice looking machine work though.
:thumbs:
You've asked for it and now you can have it. I've redesigned my pullback risers to accommodate bikes with lowered suspensions. As you can see in the drawings, I've clearanced them to fit perfectly around the fork tubes. They've been clearanced vertically 1 inch. No part of the center section comes in contact with the risers. These are on order and will be available the first week of April. These will be available for preorder in a couple hours, first come first serve. I'll be able to put up more pictures when they arrive.
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/LoweringPullbacks.jpg)
(http://advancedsporttouring.com/v/vspfiles/files/LoweringPullbacks2.jpg)