Front upper cowling bracket bolt torque

[DC Concours]

Does anyone know how tight the 30mm bolt that secures the front cowling bracket (23062-1100) to the frame's head tube should be?

My bolt slipped off. The bolt's threads in the middle were filed down due to the movement of the bracket. Should I allow for some movement or should I tighten it down hard? I think there should be some allowance for movement??

[Boomer]

It needs to be tightened down hard. If the bolt is damaged then replace it with a decent quality flanged bolt of the same size (M8 x 30mm long, or use an un-flanged bolt with an M8 spacer) and replace the flanged nut with an M8 spacer and an M8 Nyloc nut to prevent it from vibrating loose again. The damage to the mount occurs when the bolt is loose so it needs to be kept tight. If you need an actual torque value, 25ftlb should be enough to hold it all together. There is enough flex in the tubes of the fairing subframe to not need any movement in that mount.

[DC Concours]

Thanks Boomer. I'll tighten it down well.

They are out of regular locknuts at my store. Since you seem to know a lot about nuts!? What is a Tension locknut? Is it just a beefier nut to hold down tension so it doesn't pop?

Beefier beef, nuts and tension. I can't help it today.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-8-mm-x-1-25-Zinc-Tension-Lock-Nut-869148/323707757

[Boomer]

Thanks Boomer. I'll tighten it down well.
They are out of regular locknuts at my store. Since you seem to know a lot about nuts!? What is a Tension locknut? Is it just a beefier nut to hold down tension so it doesn't pop?
Beefier beef, nuts and tension. I can't help it today.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-8-mm-x-1-25-Zinc-Tension-Lock-Nut-869148/323707757

Well I do hang out with some of the worlds biggest nuts on certain forums. 
I've never heard of a "Tension" locknut. Nylock nuts are those with a nylon insert that grips the thread preventing it from loosening under vibration.
Other types of locknut have intentionally damaged threads at one end so that they "pinch" the thread to grip it. These are less effective than nylocks.
Flanged locknuts have a sawtooth pattern on the face that is supposed to grip and prevent them from loosening. In my experience these are crap and are what Kawasaki fitted to the C10 in several places including the fairing stay. I can't access your Home Depot link but these are the type of locknut you need.
https://www.amazon.com/M8x1-25mm-Stainless-Self-Locking-Industrial-Construction/dp/B09PF4JGVZ
I use stainless steel nylocks everywhere on my C10. They go on and come off easily but don't vibrate loose and don't rust, and they ain't even expensive. 

[Big Red]

There's another type for high heat applications. It's like a nylock nut, but has a steel finger insert instead of the nylon. Same purpose, but can be used in high heat spots.

[DC Concours]

Damn Red, you guys are nuts about nuts. Never seen this one. Definitely useful where the nylon will melt.

Boomer, yes I found the nylock nuts in my local HD. They only had a mega huge box of them so I bought the tension ones instead. Works fine. I was just curious abut tension and thought you may know because you had all this info on metric nuts and bolts in the other thread.

 

[Big Red]

The tension ones that HD sells are likely the same thing as nylocks but not made of nylon. Some other polymer would be my guess.

[Boomer]

Boomer, yes I found the nylock nuts in my local HD. They only had a mega huge box of them so I bought the tension ones instead. Works fine. I was just curious abut tension and thought you may know because you had all this info on metric nuts and bolts in the other thread.

HD Dealer had Metric nuts? Mind you, HD fit Brembo brakes so these days are probably a b@st@rd mix of Metric and Standard/Imperial much like most of the UK.