Hey everyone, thought I'd go ahead and keep a log on BB. If you have any questions about anything I've done I'd be happy to explain, and if you have any suggestions I'm all ears.

Currently she's about 60% apart, and getting cleaned real well. Currently working on paint, the bevel gear oil leak, and any misc damage I find. Got a set of block off plates from Murphs coming. New front brake rotors/pads. Have done a lot of tab repairs on fairings and some paint already, but I don't want to reveal the paint job until I'm done.

Nice rotors, what make are they ? 

Hi,
        How did you repair the tabs?

The rotors are some unbranded ebay stuff I picked up for cheap to hold me over until I do the 17" conversion. http://www.ebay.com/itm/262363392353?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT They're Chinese made, so probably not a high quality replacement, but definitely better than what I had (bunny hops on warped rotors). Once she's back together and I bed the pads in I'll give y'all an update on how I feel they work with some 20-0, 35-0 and 60-0 stopping distances.

I repaired the tabs using 2 part epoxy and a cigarette box. I'd make a mold out of the cardboard from the cigarette box from the opposite side's tab and fill it with epoxy and let it cure. I'd then peel the cardboard off (the smooth finish on the box allowed 90% of it to release really clean) and tacked the new tab in the location of the old one. I'd then reinforce it by putting a layer of epoxy on the inside of the fairing up the fairing the same length as the tab, and twice the width of the tab, and cover the tab with another layer of epoxy at the same time. Then when all the new tabs are fully cured and secured I mount the fairing up to the bike and match the holes, and drill out a hole 1 size larger than the fastener that's going to be installed. attach a clip nut to the tab and use a thin nylon or rubber washer between the fairings to help reduce vibrations. I haven't done any real testing on this repair method, and the plastifix murph's sells is a better match to the plastics, but I can be cheap and impatient. Worst case scenario, some of them crack or break off again and I try a different material.

My Ideal tab repair would use a thin piece of sheet metal and abs sheet to reinforce all the tabs. You'd drill several small holes in the sheet metal where it's getting bonded to the ABS, and cut a strip of abs material to fully cover the metal below the tab plus about 20% on the sides and bottom, and "weld' the abs through the metal to the fairing. Use a thin layer of rubber cement to bond the sheet metal to the tab and you now have a very robust fairing tab. Of course, this is mostly theory, as I've only seen a handful of vehicles use similar reinforcement methods with stainless screen like materials and whatnot.

Hi,
        Thanks!

I like the reenforcement idea! 

Great information...Thanks     

Still waiting on a few seals to get the bike back together, but that hasn't stopped progress. It's been too cold to use normal paint in my workspace the last few days, so I busted out the heat gun and have been heating the parts and applying coats of high-temp paint. This stuff dries for recoating very quickly this way when I run the heat gun on high / 1500 watts. LED headlight from Hoshi came in. Super impressed by the build quality. Sometimes it pays off to be a product reviewer! Will let y'all know my thoughts and take pics of before and after headlight conversion when I have the electronics hooked back up.

LEDs installed, engine together enough to bump the starter. Still haven't found 'the spring' 

I'm quite impressed with the Hoshi headlamp. The photo is just running lights and low beam, everything gets about 30-50% brighter with the indicators / high beam on. I looked at the tail lights and they don't look replaceable at first glance, but probably can be taken apart if I remove them from the rear first.

I found out my clutch hose was about ready to pop at the slave cylinder when everything was apart, I have a SS braided one on the way. Other than that, the heated handgrips, and possibly a blue LED for the clock are the only parts I'm missing for its first round of restoration. I've just been too lazy to go out and work in the cold for long hours to get it done quickly.  It probably would be back together already if I knew where 'the spring' was though honestly.

I liked the looks of the blue dash myself.
But, when I tried it, there wasn't enough brightness and I went back to white lights.
Yours looks brighter than what I recall.

Ride safe, Ted

The blue isn't as bright as the white, amber or green for sure. It is bright enough for me to be able to glance down and get the information I need though. I'm thinking about installing a few extra bulbs to give more even coverage of light, since a few spots are darker than others. If you're going to be driving my way any time soon, you're more than welcome to stop by and check them out. I've got spares too, and I can't use the blues for ground FX / accents anyways.

Thanks, I do appreciate the offer, but think I'll stick with white.
I also tried the blue tinted/higher wattage headlights.
(with my eyes) The blue just doesn't give the contrast I need and I went back to white on all.

Do keep us posted on your project!

Ride safe, Ted

Have you tried using those yellow visors or goggles for night time driving?

I've tried them in a car, not on a bike.
But I can see fine at night..
It's the blue light that is the problem.
Things don't stand out as much.

So, I prefer the white as it gives that tiny bit of extra sharpness.

Ride safe, Ted

So, if you didn't see my post on CDA, I got hit and knocked over and my right side peg was broken. The lady paid me for damages etc, so I took the opportunity to look for some decent affordable replacements, and what I found was ALMOST a perfect fit. You have to modify the spring a little to get it to fit inside the new bracket, a snip or a twist and bend work fine. I'll post pics of them on the bike after I get off work.

Interesting peg, I kinda like it, looks very adjustable for posit8oning, and looks like it will rold up nicely in the event of a drop,
Give us inro on where who whhat.make and price, 

I bought the pegs on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281930547617?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=580902511306&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

They're inexpensive Chinese pegs, but I was experimenting with fitment since I can't find measurements for foot peg brackets anywhere. I've ridden on them a bit, and can't get the rear brake and shifter as low as I want them for these pegs, so I'm going to have to fabricate up some custom stuff. Compared to the stock foot pegs, they are beefier where it counts. They also fold up pretty dang well, and take about a minute to change the position. It looks like the 50mm versions can be used at 50, 40, and 10mm lengths with 20 positions of adjustment around the bracket.

Edit: After checking the ebay listing, we have a decent selection of foot pegs from other bikes to pick from it looks like, even a lot of Ninja models which have huge aftermarkets.

I feel much more comfortable on my Connie with these pegs. I'm a little over 6', and the stock brackets made me feel like I had to bend forward a bit. It's easier to stand on the bike, and with my size 13 1/2 boats (boots) I set the bars back 15 degrees with the 50mm drop, and I can shift with my toes now instead of the middle of my foot.

Installing them is pretty easy, the stock springs need minor modification. The hook on the spring is facing the wrong way and is a little too wide to fit inside the beefier structure of the peg adapter, so take some pliers and twist the hook the other way around and squish it until it fits, or snip it if you're lazy like me (I bent one, and snipped the other just to compare).

The important thing these pegs proved, is that 98-08 Zephyr adjustable pegs will fit our bikes. I don't know about stock Zephyr pegs, but my goal has always been to take this bike and make it easy to find parts and cheap to repair. I like my new $25 super adjustable pegs.

I got everything adjusted for the absolute lowest the new pegs go. It took a little modifying but was only about 30 minutes of figuring out what to do and fixing little things since I'm going outside of factory adjustment allowances.

The shifter side was the easiest, I adjusted the rod a bit further out, and then moved the arm 2 or 3 splices towards the front. Since the pegs are lower, it feels more natural for the shifter to be a little higher than the peg, it takes less effort to lift my foot over the shifter and it's easier to feather it from second to neutral since it's below where my toes meet my foot, instead of under the middle of my foot (again, big feet).

The brake side took some actual modification. I removed the master cylinder, and unscrewed the adapter and removed the nut above it from the ball joint/bolt. I ended up having to remove somewhere between 1/4" and 1/3" to get the adapter to bottom out on the bolt. After I got everything back together, the brake light wouldn't cut off even fully adjusted, so I pulled the bracket off and stretched the spring that attaches the brake switch to the brake lever. A minute of adjusting after that, slapped everything back on, and it works as intended.

You'll have to excuse the grit on my bike, it's been raining here and she's my only mode of transportation aside from the 250s and 150 I've got for sale.

Chinese aftermarket adjustable foot pegs total cost: ~$30 and <1 hour labor.