Brake wear in just 3500 miles

[Eric119]

That type of comment does nothing to help in solving the problem at hand.     He came to us for help and advice.  Let's show that we're deserving of that.

Any other LEOs that ride C14s have this issue?  I'm in agreement that this bike has been modified for LEO usage for awhile.  We haven't heard of that short of lifetime on the front brakes.  Is it possible that the caliper's are sticking and causing the wear?

We do train the officers to use a lot of braking to control the bike in low to mid speed maneuvers. Engine braking would never work. Not precise enough. It is used in conjunction with straight line braking. No way will it stop any bike in short distances.

[Eric119]

Trust me Pokey, you are one guy that I don't wanna get on the bad side of.
OK, just imagine accelerating from 0-whatever in a matter of seconds to catch a violator, then brake from whatever-required speed using only the engine for braking purposes.  I can simply state that you need more braking than the engine is providing.  In addition you want immediate stopping and control of the rate to a desired safe distance.  The progressive engine braking does not take this into account.  That does not include the emergency braking due to the idiots stopping in the middle of the road.  Repeat this over and over all day and you quickly understand why they go through brakes faster.  With that all being said I do understand what you are stating and why, I just feel that it takes conditions for granted that are not always present.  However 3500 miles still seems a little premature.  I think Jim may have a possible idea with the calipers.

Another piece to your reply; 90% of braking power is on the front wheel. compression braking only effects the rear and actually can cause instability if over done. But you all know this.

[Eric119]

Weak points of the C14P as seen in my agency:

1. Tire life is very low. About 70% of what we see on RTPs. Luck is on your side if you see 4,500 miles.

2. Brake life is very low. About 40% of the RTP. 5,500-6,000 miles if treated gently.

3. Downtime for 7.5k and 15k inspections about 2x longer than RTP.

The above being said, it is a great bike as long as selected with the above in mind. Also, Kawasaki Authority Sales provides great support for the C14P

I agree with your observations. Only difference we noted was any repair costs were much cheaper. As far as down time; for us its getting our mechanics x trained from BMWs to C14s. Top end of engine is a little more complicated. But is made in clutch transmission final drive. Those areas are we found much quicker to service. as a for instance; the clutch pack comes loose simple by removal of the six allen screws.

[556ALPHA]

I agree with your observations. Only difference we noted was any repair costs were much cheaper. As far as down time; for us its getting our mechanics x trained from BMWs to C14s. Top end of engine is a little more complicated. But is made in clutch transmission final drive. Those areas are we found much quicker to service. as a for instance; the clutch pack comes loose simple by removal of the six allen screws.

You mean they don't have to perform an 18 hour surgery, cracking your bike in half, and then slipping you a bill for over $2,000.  I just could not resist.  Our agency did not give the C14 one peep, and what a shame.  Don't get me wrong the RT is a huge improvement to me over the HD Electraglides we had. 

I definitely could have used the C14 with the new Heli setup and been comfortable all day.  I just got a set of Phils bars extending the  grips outwards an inch on both sides.  I will be re-installing his wedges and hopefully these two together will be the fix I have been looking for.  With just wedges turn ins felt awkward due to the bar's feeling way too narrow.  I will post a thread on that next week.

[SPX]

You mean they don't have to perform an 18 hour surgery, cracking your bike in half, and then slipping you a bill for over $2,000.  I just could not resist.  Our agency did not give the C14 one peep, and what a shame.  Don't get me wrong the RT is a huge improvement to me over the HD Electraglides we had. 

I definitely could have used the C14 with the new Heli setup and been comfortable all day.  I just got a set of Phils bars extending the  grips outwards an inch on both sides.  I will be re-installing his wedges and hopefully these two together will be the fix I have been looking for.  With just wedges turn ins felt awkward due to the bar's feeling way too narrow.  I will post a thread on that next week.

Have you seen the bar risers that Kawasaki Authority Sales is selling? I've attached a photo; $275-$325. All the options including the far left which is no bar riser at all are pictured. Stock riser is 9.25 tall and .5 back. Short bar back is 8.25 tall and 2.5 back and tall bar back is 9.75 tall and 3 back. These were made because some were wanting to make the seating position closer to that of the RTP.

True that the bike does not have to be broken apart to change a clutch. However, lest we forget the 5-6 hours of labor to change the spark plugs, or check the valves. Compared to BMWs 20 minutes.  Everything is a tradeoff.

[556ALPHA]

Have you seen the bar risers that Kawasaki Authority Sales is selling? I've attached a photo; $275-$325. All the options including the far left which is no bar riser at all are pictured. Stock riser is 9.25 tall and .5 back. Short bar back is 8.25 tall and 2.5 back and tall bar back is 9.75 tall and 3 back. These were made because some were wanting to make the seating position closer to that of the RTP.

True that the bike does not have to be broken apart to change a clutch. However, lest we forget the 5-6 hours of labor to change the spark plugs, or check the valves. Compared to BMWs 20 minutes.  Everything is a tradeoff.

Good point and hopefully I will outlast the clutch.  I wonder what increments the PD's will use for valve adjustments/plugs?  Sounds like the Short or Tall bar back would do, wonder if stock cables would work?  Also I wonder if they will clear the Glovebox on the 2009?  Think I will call them Monday.  Do you have a POC?  Thanks.

[SPX]

Good point and hopefully I will outlast the clutch.  I wonder what increments the PD's will use for valve adjustments/plugs?  Sounds like the Short or Tall bar back would do, wonder if stock cables would work?  Also I wonder if they will clear the Glovebox on the 2009?  Think I will call them Monday.  Do you have a POC?  Thanks.

See PM

[Eric119]

Have you seen the bar risers that Kawasaki Authority Sales is selling? I've attached a photo; $275-$325. All the options including the far left which is no bar riser at all are pictured. Stock riser is 9.25 tall and .5 back. Short bar back is 8.25 tall and 2.5 back and tall bar back is 9.75 tall and 3 back. These were made because some were wanting to make the seating position closer to that of the RTP.

True that the bike does not have to be broken apart to change a clutch. However, lest we forget the 5-6 hours of labor to change the spark plugs, or check the valves. Compared to BMWs 20 minutes.  Everything is a tradeoff.

Actually I wish we could use a dealership for maintaince. Our city mechanic isn't very competant.

Regardning riser; we started with Heli riser, then some type of wedge added. Now we are individually adding a completely new riser. The shorter motor officers like it. The taller ones prefer the Heli risers. All agree the bike needs some type of riser extension for patrol work and constant city street handling

[VirginiaJim]

Don't blame them at all for that....

[wendel]

I do not know how much of a factor it is but, my 2012 has linked brakes so if you only use the foot brake, you are still activating a front brake.  On the wing it causes the right front to wear quicker than the left and rear.

[Eric119]

I do not know how much of a factor it is but, my 2012 has linked brakes so if you only use the foot brake, you are still activating a front brake.  On the wing it causes the right front to wear quicker than the left and rear.

Yep, linked brakes. We are riding 2011s with linked brakes. Our mechanic stated that application of rear brake only activates the left front caliper. This supposedly to avoid over braking with the foot pedal.

[stewart]

That's not correct, I'm 99% sure rear pedal activate only 1 piston upfront, but both sides. Would need to dig my manual to confirm.

[stevewfl]

Yep, linked brakes. We are riding 2011s with linked brakes. Our mechanic stated that application of rear brake only activates the left front caliper. This supposedly to avoid over braking with the foot pedal.

hmmm is he the same one who calculated how many miles the pads wore out in 3500 miles too