Crap! It won't start?! HELP

[Slideways]

Has been running fine no hints of a problem. This morning press down the stove knob key and nothing. The dash does not come, on nothing. The red LED that flashes when the bike is off is still working, the battery has a full charge, the key fob battery is over 3 volts, the kill switch is in the 'run' position and the emergency-dead-fob procedure does not work. I'm stumped. Any help?

[Conrad]

If you're sure that the main battery and it's connections are good and you get nothing when pressing down on the stoveknob key with a good fob in range then it sure sounds like you have a stuck Kipass activation switch.

First try something easy. With the fob in range, press down on the stoveknob and let it snap back onto place by letting your finger slide off to the side. Do this a couple of times, maybe it'll jar the switch into operation.

If that doesn't do the trick then the next thing to try would be to unplug the gray connector under the black panel just to the left of the gas tank. If your Kipass switch is acting up then when you plug the gray connector back together you should see the same results as you do when you press down on the stoveknob, again, with the fob in range. See this thread for more info and what the gray connector looks like.

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=6976.msg82841#msg82841

[Slideways]

Who da man?! CONRAD!!! 

The activation switch was indeed stuck and the let-it-snap-back advice was perfect. Thank you so much!

[Conrad]

I'm glad to hear that you got your bike started! 

You may want to purchase one of Brian's Kipass bypass harnesses from the link above, just in case...

[VirginiaJim]

Too easy.  I prefer using a hammer.

[Conrad]

Too easy.  I prefer using a hammer.

Not everyone has a washed up 'rapper' at the ready Jim.

[Gumby]

Not everyone has a washed up 'rapper' at the ready Jim.

SNAPPY COME BACK   

[B.D.F.]

Yeah, and it <might> just be that I can actually sell one now..... maybe.    They are located here if you are interested (some wiseguy is going to ask where they are located if he is NOT interested, at least I would):

http://incontrolne.com/incontrol_005.htm

Brian

I'm glad to hear that you got your bike started! 

You may want to purchase one of Brian's Kipass bypass harnesses from the link above, just in case...

[VirginiaJim]

Not everyone has a washed up 'rapper' at the ready Jim.

Approaching junior Twit status, I see...

[Slideways]

Too easy.  I prefer using a hammer.

Read my signature and you will understand my feelings about hammers....

[Conrad]

Approaching junior Twit status, I see...

I aim high but shoot low.   

[ZG]

Who da man?! CONRAD!!! 

The activation switch was indeed stuck and the let-it-snap-back advice was perfect. Thank you so much!

To hell with Fred what's his name, we've got C! 

[maxtog]

The activation switch was indeed stuck and the let-it-snap-back advice was perfect. Thank you so much!

This is a well known problem with the gen 1 (which you have).  If you are still covered under extended warranty, you might be able to get them to replace the spring/etc in the ignition.  If not covered, it might be expensive, but the dealer can get a kit to fix the issue (and supposedly has improved parts like are used on the gen 2.)

It could be a fluke, but if it starts doing it, it is likely to increase in frequency over time...

[B.D.F.]

The problem is not limited to Gen. 1 bikes. It continues through 2012 models. Kawasaki has 'fixed' it twice now, once was to clean and de-burr the switch stem and the second and current 'fix' is a stronger return spring. The number of failures has declined but they are still happening, at least as late as 2012, a year from which I have happy customers. <grin and frown all at once here>

Until a positive return switch is used the problem can and will occur, even if it is reduced statistically. That is not much comfort to the person stuck with the switch that stuck though.

Brian

This is a well known problem with the gen 1 (which you have).  If you are still covered under extended warranty, you might be able to get them to replace the spring/etc in the ignition.  If not covered, it might be expensive, but the dealer can get a kit to fix the issue (and supposedly has improved parts like are used on the gen 2.)

It could be a fluke, but if it starts doing it, it is likely to increase in frequency over time...

[B.D.F.]

Nope- can't sell any yet. I have an ongoing problem with PayPal and the resolution so far has been impossible. Again, my apologies to those trying to buy one of these; I am pursuing a solution with as much pressure as can be brought to bear.

I will post on that monumental day when a transaction can actually be completed. Mr. Paypal is very fortunate that I do not know where he (she?) lives....


Brian

Yeah, and it <might> just be that I can actually sell one now..... maybe.    They are located here if you are interested (some wiseguy is going to ask where they are located if he is NOT interested, at least I would):

http://incontrolne.com/incontrol_005.htm

Brian

[maxtog]

The problem is not limited to Gen. 1 bikes. It continues through 2012 models.

Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeew!  I thought it was actually/mostly fixed by gen 2.

[mntbiker-junkie]

Brian-  Can you provide a quick overview of what you Kipass bypass does and how it works?  Assuming we still need to use the stove knob and fob.

Thanks

[Slideways]

Little update:
This morning before I searched/posted for help I called my local dealer. At this point I got not clue as to what's wrong. The service writer had no idea and asks the service manager who also had no idea. After seeing that this is a known issue am I being overly sceptical in thinking the dealer likely knew just what the problem was but saw dollar signs and so decided to withhold info? Seems it would have been smart to suggest the easy fix as not only as a solution but a diagnosis and then suggest the switch be replaced if the easy fix worked.

[B.D.F.]

Yep, there is a pretty decent description here: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=6976.msg82841#msg82841

And yes, you will still need both the stove knob key and a valid fob. This work- around only fixes a stuck activation key, it is not a general KiPass bypass. Then again, we really don't need to bypass all of KiPass, the only part that ever fails is the activation switch. This is a 100% work around and will absolutely cure a stuck activation switch.

Brian

Brian-  Can you provide a quick overview of what you Kipass bypass does and how it works?  Assuming we still need to use the stove knob and fob.

Thanks

[Conrad]

To hell with Fred what's his name, we've got C! 

Wanna buy some videos J?