Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: lather on February 18, 2018, 05:01:58 PM
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I want to put my ZX14 forks with AP Suspension internals on my 08 ABS. THe ZX14 right fork bottom will take some fancy machinest work to mount the sensor. I am tempted to just tuck the sensor up out of the way. I assume this will trigger the yellow light and not effect anything else.
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IIRC there's been several threads on installing the sensor on zx14 and olins forks....didn't seem too difficult.
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I will search for those threads. But seems like the surface of the fork bottom where the sensor mounts will have to be milled before the holes are drilled.
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Electric die grinder or drill press with a bottom cutting bit?
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Here's one...http://forum.cog-online.org/concours-14-zg1400-general-chat-and-tech/another-difference-between-gen1-and-gen2/msg397396/#msg397396 (http://forum.cog-online.org/concours-14-zg1400-general-chat-and-tech/another-difference-between-gen1-and-gen2/msg397396/#msg397396)
You might reach out to gumby. I think others have done it.
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Does not seem like same issue in that thread.
Hope this pic illustrates the problem.
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Does not seem like same issue in that thread.
Hope this pic illustrates the problem.
There have been a few people here who had that same issue and they just drilled and tapped and fixed the problem.
I am sure some one must have some more info to give you. Did you post this on the other forum?
No way would even think about getting rid of anti-lock brakes because of an issue like that.
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Electric die grinder or drill press with a bottom cutting bit?
where did you find that, nothing like it at home depot
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I got a set of burr bits at NAPA. Make sure it has cutting teeth on the bottom...some don't.
search...die grinder bottom cutting burr bit
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I got a set of burr bits at NAPA. Make sure it has cutting teeth on the bottom...some don't.
search...die grinder bottom cutting burr bit
Thanks, Ill hit NAPA tomorry
Another question, should I get a cheap die grinder and use my compressor or will a cheap drill press work?
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Two people and the drill press will probably work the best. It should machine easily.
I've got an electric die grinder..Makita.. more useful to me than the pneumatic I've got.
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Thanks.
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Electric die grinder or drill press with a bottom cutting bit?
Cannot find anything like this at Home Depot, Lowes AutoZone or NAPA. THe guy at NAPA searched his catalgue for 10 minutes and NADA. Going to look on McMasterCarr.
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https://www.amanatool.com/products/router-bits/stainless-steel-steel-aluminum-non-ferrous-metal-cutting-burr-bits/sb-burrs-solid-carbide-head-brazed-into-steel-shank-cylindrical-shape-with-end-double-cut-burr-bits.html (https://www.amanatool.com/products/router-bits/stainless-steel-steel-aluminum-non-ferrous-metal-cutting-burr-bits/sb-burrs-solid-carbide-head-brazed-into-steel-shank-cylindrical-shape-with-end-double-cut-burr-bits.html)
https://www.grainger.com/category/machining-finishing-supplies-carbide-burs/ecatalog/N-13ve/Ntt-burr+bits+end+cut?sst=subset&ts_optout=true (https://www.grainger.com/category/machining-finishing-supplies-carbide-burs/ecatalog/N-13ve/Ntt-burr+bits+end+cut?sst=subset&ts_optout=true)
https://drillsandcutters.com/sb5-1-2-x-1-cylindrical-end-cut-carbide-burr-1-4-shank/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIycHsqve12QIVQZ7ACh024QAkEAQYAyABEgIC__D_BwE (https://drillsandcutters.com/sb5-1-2-x-1-cylindrical-end-cut-carbide-burr-1-4-shank/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIycHsqve12QIVQZ7ACh024QAkEAQYAyABEgIC__D_BwE)
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McMaster Carr will have them but they tend to be expensive.
MSC is much less expensive usually. They will also happily ship but not quite as fast as McMaster (I am w/in one business day of McMaster Carr and they have never, ever, 'missed' in over 30 years of doing business with them- if ordered before the cut- off time, it will arrive the next day).
Try single- ended end mills for inexpensive, end cutting tools. This is a starting place:
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Milling/End-Mills/Square-End-Mills?navid=12106240#navid=12106240+4288247969 (https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Milling/End-Mills/Square-End-Mills?navid=12106240#navid=12106240+4288247969)
Let me know if I can be of more help and I can wade through the choices (there are 25,000 listed above) after we figure out what, exactly, you need to do. I have both C-14 as well as ZX forks and so should be able to figure out the right size cutter, length needed and the shank size once I know the opening in your chuck (Easy Bob!).
Brian
Cannot find anything like this at Home Depot, Lowes AutoZone or NAPA. THe guy at NAPA searched his catalgue for 10 minutes and NADA. Going to look on McMasterCarr.
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Thanks Brian. I had found this at a reasonable price at McMaster
High-Speed Steel Square-End End Mill for Aluminum
Uncoated, 2 Flute, 1/2" Mill Diameter, 3-1/4" Overall Length
$24.
I am in the process of drilling the 12mm center hole for the sensor starting at 1/16. The hard part was securing the fork bottom perpendicular due to the compression adjuster protruding. My pilot hole is not 100% but hopefully close enough.
Once that 12 mm hole is done I will position the sensor and draw an outline where the metal needs to be removed.referencing the attached photo, the sloped surface needs to be flat and slightly recessed I think as in second picture.
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Great Bob.
I have chased tolerances to six digits (English system, millionths of an inch through laser inteferometry) and nothing is ever 100%. Everything that works is always 'close enough'. A human eye can detect amazingly small and accurately given some care; humans can align two parallel rails, 6" long, w/in 0.005" over and over again- it is just amazing. So if you got that fork as close to perfect as your eyes allow, I am sure it is more than good enough. Even the factory fork, along with the sensor, the threads, the slotted plate and everything else will not align to a few thousandths but those inductive sensors are really very forgiving. So I am confident your altered fork bottom will work perfectly as well.
Brian
Thanks Brian. I had found this at a reasonable price at McMaster
High-Speed Steel Square-End End Mill for Aluminum
Uncoated, 2 Flute, 1/2" Mill Diameter, 3-1/4" Overall Length
$24.
I am in the process of drilling the 12mm center hole for the sensor starting at 1/16. The hard part was securing the fork bottom perpendicular due to the compression adjuster protruding. My pilot hole is not 100% but hopefully close enough.
Once that 12 mm hole is done I will position the sensor and draw an outline where the metal needs to be removed.referencing the attached photo, the sloped surface needs to be flat and slightly recessed I think as in second picture.
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Test ride today. Abs light went out soon as underway but came on with first hard brake and stayed on.
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What fault code does it give when you retrieve it?
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Getting 43 and 53
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Do you have a gen 1 FSM at hand?
43 = Front wheel rotation sensor wiring abnormal
(wiring shorted or open)
53 = Power supply voltage abnormal
(over-voltage)
The 53 may be a stored old code from a previous time.
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Have the FSM. My zx14 adaption work fell short. Gonna take some more flesh off in the morning.
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Correction: codes are 42 and 52. Sorry for the typo. 52 is undervoltage and 42 is wrong gap.
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I think you have the answer.
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SUCCESS. There was no way to accurately mill a measured amount of aluminum to achieve the specified gap between sensor and rotor so I just eyeballed it and was conservative on my first try. error #42 told me I had stopped short. Was too lazy to remove fender, wheel and fork again so I made a nother milling pass "in sirtu" with the milling bit in my two handed heavy duty corded drill. This was harder to control than I expected so I quit after a few minutes/ I guess I managed to gouge, er, mill about .025 in
off. it was ragged but I cleaned it up a bit with a file. Put the sensor on and went for a ride. Voila! The light stayed on longer than usual but after 50 feet it went out and stayed off (except for a few ignition on and off cycles) for the remainder of my 78 mile ride. :)
I tried to erase the error codes without success. The procedure seems straight forward enough although in the usual odd wording of the FSM. I may be misinterpreting. Can someone who has successfully erased codes give the repeat the procedure in English?
Thanks
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I've done it a few times without trouble. It goes something like: connect wires for diagnostic modes, turn on ign, then remove jumper earth wire while it's still connected to grey wire and touch to earth for 1-2 seconds 3 or 4 times a second or 2 apart (all within 12.5 seconds) then reconnect to earth, turn off ign, pause, then turn on ign to re-enter diagnostic mode; ABS light should come on, go off, then come on again with no flashing if cleared. I use a jumper wire that is easily & quickly dis/connected to earth rather than the earth wire/plug with the grey wire.
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Confused. Thought black/yellow wire was ground (earth) Are you disconnecting jumper from black/yellow and touching to frame?
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Yes, black/yellow wire is earth but it's too fiddly using it for the specified timed steps required. I put a jumper wire in the grey wire plug and touch/hold it to a good frame earth as specified - on/hold/off/hold/on/hold/off/etc.
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Got it, Thanks!
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Yes, black/yellow wire is earth but it's too fiddly using it for the specified timed steps required. I put a jumper wire in the grey wire plug and touch/hold it to a good frame earth as specified - on/hold/off/hold/on/hold/off/etc.
Tried a dozen times with good ground verified by my multimeter, even heated jacket harbess connected direct to battery neg post. Could not erase codes. WTF?
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:yikes: