Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: sgilbert14 on May 11, 2014, 06:22:50 PM
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After a troublesome season last year which required Steve working his magic on my carbs for the 2nd time, a new tank liner, petcock, fuel filter main and backup, etc... I seem to be done to one last issue. It starts and idles great and will initially take off fine but when you hit the throttle at any speed above say 15 mph it hesitates almost like it bogs down and then it takes off. I do have a valve tick so I will be checking the vale adjustments and I have changed all the fluids, just picked up the new spark plugs have not installed them. I have changed all the fuel and vacuum lines this week and now have this last thing to sort out. Hope to be riding it next weekend but I need to get this sorted before I will take off anywhere with it. Thanks for any ideas that you may have to offer. :hail:
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When Steve worked on your carbs did he install his 2mm jet kit?
If he did, how big of a piece of foam do you have in the airbox?
Have you checked your airbox to be sure there are no cracks in it? (bottom front edge is most often the weak spot)
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turbojoe...you should start responding to these threads for me...perfect! Steve
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Thanks, and I tried it with and without the foam and there was the same issue so I will look for cracks, breaks etc.. to see if there are any issues there. Still, I have put more miles on it this year it test rides then all of last season so I know that I am close.
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It won't run without the foam, period. There should be a vast difference between foam and no foam. the foam block should be about 1.75" wide, so it blocks that much of the intake.
I have had issue where folks think everything is right, then they realize the snorkel is missing from the airbox. There's so much surface area the foam has almost no effect. You must have the snorkle. The airbox also must be free of cracks, holes, etc and the hole in the top / center front where the pair valve hose goes must be blocked or the pair valve hose inserted. If using the pair valve, be sure it's not leaking internally.
My jetting, when the airbox is right, has very good throttle response with no hesitation. Hesitation tells you you're getting to much air from somewhere. HTH, Steve
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After a troublesome season last year which required Steve working his magic on my carbs for the 2nd time, a new tank liner, petcock, fuel filter main and backup, etc... I seem to be done to one last issue. It starts and idles great and will initially take off fine but when you hit the throttle at any speed above say 15 mph it hesitates almost like it bogs down and then it takes off. I do have a valve tick so I will be checking the vale adjustments and I have changed all the fluids, just picked up the new spark plugs have not installed them. I have changed all the fuel and vacuum lines this week and now have this last thing to sort out. Hope to be riding it next weekend but I need to get this sorted before I will take off anywhere with it. Thanks for any ideas that you may have to offer. :hail:
IF it were me I would go back and check all the vacuum connections to make sure nothing was missed.
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Thanks to all the replies and I will go through everything in regards to vacuum and the air box this weekend. Other then this last issue the bike seems to run great. Even with the response issue it cruises fine but I will get this sorted and with the great advice I hope to be on her by Monday. Thanks again
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Started going through the bike today and the first thing that I found was that the cover for the air filter door is missing a section of the foam seal and was quite sloppy fit. I will start be picking up some foam to setup a new seal, set the foam block back into the air filter and check all the fitting again. Maybe????
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Started going through the bike today and the first thing that I found was that the cover for the air filter door is missing a section of the foam seal and was quite sloppy fit. I will start be picking up some foam to setup a new seal, set the foam block back into the air filter and check all the fitting again. Maybe????
I used a thin mouse pad and contact cement to redo both of mine.
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I used a thin mouse pad and contact cement to redo both of mine.
Cool idea!
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I think that I have just a mouse pad not in use, thanks for the idea
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actually I show a permanent repair in my airbox repair video... Steve
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I just watched the video and it will be on my "must do list"
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Did the cover yesterday and boy was it in bad shape. The upper right and lower left corners stick out almost 1/8" from the air box. I put the foam block back in and checked everything else over but will not have a chance to try the bike until tonight. Thanks for all the directions.
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Hope to have a ride this weekend. Found a bad connector and order a replacement and now I have a simple electrical fix to do. Hope the air issue has been sorted and will be riding again by the end of the weekend.
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Almost there. Did a 15 mile ride today and the bike seems to run so much better. The only issue that I had was when I pulled into the drive as it stalled out 3 times when I brought the speed down to a couple of mph. The foam block and the air box door fix seemed to clear up the hesitation issue so now I just have this last thing and then, I hope, we are set for the season... ;D
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I'm just guessing but maybe turn the idle up.
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I'm just guessing but maybe turn the idle up.
Idle should be kept in the 1K to 1100 RPM range....
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The idle is running just over 1100 and it idled fine after I started it the 3rd time. That's what got me thinking. Another day tomorrow so I will check it after work
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Slowly getting better. It still stalled but it is starting to want to run again. I hear a valve ticking so I will have to check the gaps, run a can of sea foam through and new plugs after and ?? But it runs and I am starting to ride ;D
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More done new issue,
I finished wiring my fog lights, the air box, and the valve adjustment but as I was installing the valve cover I snapped one of the valve cover bolts so now comes the fun of drilling and pulling it out, making sure that no shavings end up in the engine and finding a replacement bolt.... after that I install the fairing and I should have the season to ride..... I hope!
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You may have better luck if you remove the cap to work on the bolt. Some times the broke off piece will come out easily on a bolt like that because the shoulder bottoming out is what was holding it in not the thread tension (i'm assuming only the bolt biece is down in the hole). Your local shop should be able to order a new bolt for you for probably a few bucks, or some of us have extra ones lying around if you need one.
A word of caution. Be VERY careful. The head and cam caps were line-bored at the same time for the cam shaft journals. If you mess that cap up you may have a very expensive problem in that you will be looking for a new head with caps because a replacement one wouldn't exactly be available. Watch that torque when tightening the cover bolts, it is in inch/lbs not foot/lbs. You just kind of snug them up with a 1/4" drive socket or use an exact measurement.
(OK guys, did I remember this correctly?)
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Yes, shout out If you need cam cap bolts and locator pins. I've got some left from a scrapped engine.
It might take all of 2 stamps to get them to you.
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Thanks for all the advice. I will be pulling the cover off to work on the bold as it did break off in the hole. I hope that the process goes nice and smooth and without issues but will be extra careful on this as well. Thanks again
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remove the valve cover, remove the cam cap and then work on getting the bolt out. You don't want to do that while it's still in the engine. Most likely you'll be able to get ahold of the bolt with vice grips and unscrew it out.
While you're in there, readjust all your valves. I think the shutting off is due to tight valves - I've seen it before. Good luck - steve
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http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-extractor-set-40349.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-extractor-set-40349.html)
I have some that are small enough, and look like a short drill bit, but they are left hand spiral, chuck it in a drill and set it to reverse, will drill in and grab in one shot, spins it right out...
I think I got them at Lowes... iirc or Ace...
(http://www.acehardware.com/product/http%3A//ACE.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE2-983834dt.jpg)
this is the one....
(http://www.mit-tool.com/customer/photos_med_res/6000/60406pic2.jpg)
http://www.mit-tool.com/maxcraft/products-10-37-525-60406-MAXCRAFT-3pc_Screw_Extractor_Bit_Set.htm (http://www.mit-tool.com/maxcraft/products-10-37-525-60406-MAXCRAFT-3pc_Screw_Extractor_Bit_Set.htm)
remove the cap, and if you have a drill press that runs in reverse (l/h) use that, if not, a hand drill will work... use a 3/32" drill first, about an 1/8" deep, to make a starter hole.
These extractors grab fast and pulsing the drill will make it spin out like Butter.
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Great and thanks. I work just down the road from Harbor Freight and will swing and get these after work tomorrow.
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Local store, no help. Went to HF to buy this kit with the printed page and was told that they did not sell them. Will try a local hardware tomorrow.
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Got this task finished and it is almost back together. Thanks for the help !
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Good job! I'm assuming you have or found a replacement bolt?
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Thanks to the help of RFH87_Connie I have it on the way + an extra.. thanks again! :)
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I think that we are on the last legs as this looong project. Everything is back together and it seems to be running better then it has since I have owned it. Need to do a bit of work and then it is off for a test..
Thanks to all who helped in every way
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sgilbert, I have to congratulate you on the impending success of your project. I have followed your trials and tribulations with this bike almost from the beginning. You have overcome and risen above problems that would have lesser men whimpering in a corner. I hope you have a long and happy time with a motorcycle that you know most intimately. :chugbeer:
Gary
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Thank you and after 40 miles on the initiation ride all I can say is --- wow! I rode it the first year I had it and after Steve's carbs and all the blood I can say that it pulls great, with the new shoes it rides and corners 100x better and I have found a new joy in the old girl. Still some things to do but I think that for the most part the big stuff is done, knock on wood... thanks to all the advices, spares etc.... so to top it off I just installed my bat wings before the ride. Now a week of nightly short rides to knock out any quirks and then the mountains! :grouphug:
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Time for some pics then?
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Will get them up when I can.... but here are some before the tip over bars and some other add-ons
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VERY nice looking. It looks like the scoops might be on the wrong sides. If you flip them they will be more inline with the fairing edge. Be careful with tire shine products on the side walls too.
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Thanks. I will check the scoops out tonight
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I put in a ride tonight and she seems to run so much better. I did the valve adjustment but I may have to do a recheck as the exhaust seems to have a different sound to it. Still need to make some adjustments with the air box foam block but it pulls great and seems to run w/o issues so I guess the rest is fine tuning.
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Update:
So far most are things are going well. On the list of things to do are:
1) Throttle cables as the adjusters on my current set are about dead
2) Find out why the valves are ticking as I have done the adjustments - maybe the shims need to be done? Ideas here would be great help.
I have done a few 30 mile rides and so far no issues other then the ticking in the valves that I will sort out but it seems to pull great and purrs on the highway. Will start making some longer rides one I feel a bit more confident in that she won't leave me with a 14 mile walk like last summer,,,,,
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The valves on a C-10 tick. There are no shims. They do not run "quiet" as they are not hydraulic. When adjusted correctly the engine sounds like a sewing machine. There is a saying that goes "Happy valves are tappy valves". This pretty much applies to this bike.
This of course is not to say that your's are either in or out of adjustment, but rather what you are looking for. Most people who adjust their own tend to set them on the high end of the scale as they will tighen up over time. This would mean .007" for intake and .009" on the exhaust for a room temperature engine. They will never be "quiet". If they get quiet, they may not be sealing and you could be burning a valve.
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Thank you. I think that I have right then. The idea of the shims came from the dealer. So now it. Ones down to the little list above and some nice long rides through the mountains
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Thank you. I think that I have right then. The idea of the shims came from the dealer. So now it. Ones down to the little list above and some nice long rides through the mountains
If the "DEALER" said shims on a 28 year old bike then find another one.... Dealer that is !!!
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That is now what I am thinking
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That is now what I am thinking
Not that some bikes did not use shims back then because some indeed did but a comment such as that proves he knows nothing about this motor or it's many bothers and sisters such as the ZX and ZL.....
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Understand, but the great things is when I asked about the cost of an adjustment the "depends on the shims" was an immediate answer not about checking to see if they had them or not/ Oh well thing to grow on
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New issue. It was running great and then I let it sit for a week and now the throttle sticks. Checked the cables and the snap back as they should. Lost as to what would cause this new issue. I am thinking about just dropping it off at the shop with get this going and I've done all this and hand them the list ..... :'(
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NOOOoooooo , after all this you're going to take it to a shop? :_shudder_Emoticon
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Ok spoke fast but I want to ride more then fix and I am going to order new cables tonight and give that a shot and while installing them look at everything else
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Just ordered my replacement throttle cables and a cable lubricator so I guess I fight it out. The old cables were damaged at the adjuster so I guess it was just a matter of time before this happened. Better now then when going down the highway at 65...
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:thumbs: soldier on Mr. Gilbert
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Is there a diagnosis of motorcycle insanity? After all this I just placed an order with Snarf for the backoff kit. I had it plugged but I figured that after all this might as well go with the clean look as well. :o
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Yes..there is. And we can only treat the symptoms as there is no cure.
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When adjusting your new cables, make sure there is a small amount of slack or "play" in them. If you don't leave any play, they tend to bind. They might operate smooth, but won't return on their own.
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Thanks,
I have a few thinks that I will check while doing the cables. Now I am thinking about a paint job. I am thinking of candy apple red over a black base,,, I have my air brush kit that I haven't had the chance to use in a while. I am thinking of maybe some design, dragon, scorpion or something as well.... time will tell
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Not mine, just always thought it was pretty neat.
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Looks cool but I am think of going with a hidden type design using transparent candy apple over black. One of those must look twice to what is there type looks.
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I have been vandalized. My throttle was sticking over the past week and knew that something wasn't right. I also knew that I had to replace my throttle cables and figured that was the issue. Order a pair and went to put them on this morning and found that someone decided that the want to break stuff on the bike. I am happy that I did not start the thing as I found saw dust in the radiator hoses. I started to pull everything apart to fix this and a couple of cur wires and found that the must jammed something into where the throttle cables hook to the card because that broke that white metal hosing where the linkage is screwed to the carbs. The nipple that the screw goes into has been broke off the carb and was wondering if there is anyway of fixing this w/o buying new carbs. If that is the only option I think it will be sold as is as I think I am damned with this thing. I did at least pull, flush and install the coolant system
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Has anyone tried that JB Weld on parts like this? I and thinking of giving it a try.
Rad system is clean, flushed and soon to be filled
Fuel and vacuum lines replaces
Had marine 2 and 3 wire connectors so I have fixed the wires
Side cover will be fixed as I still have enough plastic fix for that
Carb - hope the JB Weld will do the trick .. open to ideas
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Decided to thy the JB Weld and the putty. Will let the weld dry for the next couple of days and then I will use the putty to reinforce the whole thing. I figured the I have nothing to loose as if it did not work then I will need to replace the housing. I may buy a game came to watch the place one this is finished.....
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Looks like the weld will work. Using it with a combination of the JB putty to form a pretty uniformed bond and I think by doing so I will be out of the woods. I hope that is. Lesson learned is not to park the bike at the end of drive anymore especially when I go camping.
At least I had all the hoses, electrical stuff at hand due to car and bike projects... extra cost so far is only the $30 for the JB products.
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Well this turn of events sucks. You may wish to at least keep it under cover in a brightly lit area if you don't have a secure place for it. I few others have posted where vandals have went so far as to pushing their bikes over at night and one was even lit on fire after being pushed over behind their townhouse.
It sounds like you have figured out how to fix everything and have it under control. As long as JB weld isn't in constant contact or submersion in fuel, it may hold up. Make sure the surface is clean and maybe scuff it up for the best adhesion. If you are not confident in the carb fix when you are done, I would recommend placing a request in the "wanted" section as quite a few riders have extra carb parts they might be willing to part with for a small fee. I'm having trouble visualizing the broken part - got a picture?
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So far I think that I will be ok. Looks like the JB will hold but cannot work on the bike until the weekend to make sure,
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IT"S ALIVE AGAIN ! Not out of the water but the carb fix works great. So far all the damage is fix including new throttle and choke cables. What I cannot figure out is I still have the throttle sticking when I try to slow down. All the cables snap back better then ever to the full stop position but still the RPS are slow to drop off. No clue as to what is causing this one.
:nuts:
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If the throttle snaps back "fully" then you most likely have a vacuum leak when this is occuring. Did you get all of the ports on the carbs either capped or connected to a hose? Are the hoses connected properly and undamaged? If so, it could also be a slightly sticking slide in one of the carbs. Does it eventually drop to the correct idle speed?
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I will double check the vacuum hose. I out the backoff plate kit on it as well so I have 3 of the 4 ports with caps on them. The throttle does drop back to where it should be after a few seconds but I usually kill it be then with worry of the engine going bye bye.
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What else might have been damaged when you were vandalized?
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Nothing that I see. I have pulled the carbs when I fix the issue there and there is nothing bent, broken etc.. I replaced the cables as this issue actually started prior to whoever decided to do what they did to the bike which was cut the fuel and vacuum lines and the saw dust in the rad plus that wires to my fog lights were cut. I had the cables on order at the time and the arrived just after this was done. I think that the cable mount on the carb was broken by them trying to get at the lines...
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Well. Towel is being tossed in. Looks like I will be pulling all me add-ons off and listing everything for sale. Guess that after l the $ and time I have had enough. Use the money to pay off bills new one next te
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Pathetic. I hate thieves. You had a pile of work on this old girl, going back over a year. Finally get it running and some scumbag destroys it trying to get what? Cables? Carbs? Maybe just vandalizing for fun? I know it's little comfort, but for the guy who did this to you, Karma is a b*tch. Steve
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I agree. sgilbert, you have been one of the most tenacious folks I have followed on the forums. I hope things work out for you.
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I just put it all up for sale
1992 Concours with extras, lets deal !!!!
I am selling my 92 Concours 1000. I have been adding a ton of options and all together I have over $3200 into it. It has just over 33k on it but I do still ride so it may change.
Work done last season only used less than 200 miles last season: Spark plug wires and NGK caps, Acc. outlet, AGM Battery ,GIVI windshield, NOS Seat, new tires, brakes and carbs, grips, New fork and rear shock oil, cut the front stings to stiffen the suspension, fresh oil change, new front Headlight bulb, Valve Adjustment, etc...
Bike without the custom accessories: $1750
Add any/all CUSTOM ACCESSORIES:
Givi trunk, mount, brake light $350+ new -- $200
Tank bra $45 ---- $30
Heavy Bar Ends $90 ------ $45
Bar Raiser $75 ------$45
CeeBaily's 24" Windshield $175 ------ $125
Front & Back Tip Over Bars $340 ---- $250
Fog Lights and mount $150 ---- $50
Antler covers for use if saddlebags are removed but come with bike ------ $35
Bat Wings - $45
I sure that I am missing stuff. I just do not have the time to ride and I hate seeing it sit.
I also have way over $1000 in gear that I will sell if the bike sells or with the bike as a package: 4 XL armored jackets, New Xelement Leather jacket never worn, Fieldsheer armored jacket and pants + 2 others which have only been worn 2-3 times, size 11 Speed & Strength motorcycle shoes, Italian boots size 11, Olympian GEL gloves, Scorpion EXO1000 helmet, size large. Sell all the gear + bike with options for $3500 or may sell separately.
I also have a motorcycle trailer that I will sell with the package for an additional $300. New tiers, lights, deck and wall, paint etc.. and matches the bike.
Everything for $3500. LETS MAKE A DEAL ! Shoot me an email. I do not have to sell so please no low-ballers. I will negotiate a bit but look at the options and you will understand why.
Call Steve: 315-323-8041
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If thing go as it's set my bike is gone but will have most of the accessories to sell off
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I ended up getting my carbs before they worked on them. I think that the issue may come down to the small multiple ports that are just in front of the plates. Would a small, light weight fishing line work to see if these ports are clean? I have some 6lb line which may work
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I ended up getting my carbs before they worked on them. I think that the issue may come down to the small multiple ports that are just in front of the plates. Would a small, light weight fishing line work to see if these ports are clean? I have some 6lb line which may work
not really, those ports take a 90* turn about 1/16" down below the opening, don't poke stuff in there.
Disassemble the carbs, remove the diaphragms, and the pilot air screws, springs, flat washers, and o-rings, remove the main and secondary jets;
insert the red snooter tube extension on a spray can of Gumout into each orifice found on left side of the entrance bell of the intake area, and with a finger covering the hole the secondary jet lives in and one covering the hole the air screw came out of, spray liberally from behind. You should have a good and even spray coming out of each of the 4 holes, and the one that air needle pokes up thru. if you have a compressor, blow air afterwards, and cycle between the Gumout and air. they should clear. Make sure you do this to all 4 carbs. you must have complete misting sprays coming from all those holes.. all of them.
NOW, if Steve worked on these carbs recently, i know he does a meticulous job of cleaning, don't mess with his work...
send them back down to him to look at.
you have 2 threads with current back and forth stuff going on, this isn't an easy thing to follow, and I'm not gonna play double posts...
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Sorry about the post issue and thanks for the advice
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That's it as the fuel did not mist but dribble out of those all holes. I would love to send them back but the contract that I worked at was shut down so I just lost my job last week and have to get this on my own.
Thanks for the help and I will print it and follow it step by step
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That's it as the fuel did not mist but dribble out of those all holes. I would love to send them back but the contract that I worked at was shut down so I just lost my job last week and have to get this on my own.
Thanks for the help and I will print it and follow it step by step
I hear ya about the job thing, been off since 7/11.
best of luck, i think you are on the right track, if you get those ports cleared.
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Thanks. If it wasn't for the job the carbs would be with Steve but .... Good luck with work yourself
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Spent a good deal of times on the carbs today. Did as suggested step by step and cleaned out each port, jet, hole etc. until everything was clean and the carb cleaner atomized as it should. I hope to have them back on the bike tomorrow and pray to my benefit and good outcome and not just another :deadhorse:
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Spent a good deal of times on the carbs today. Did as suggested step by step and cleaned out each port, jet, hole etc. until everything was clean and the carb cleaner atomized as it should. I hope to have them back on the bike tomorrow and pray to my benefit and good outcome and not just another :deadhorse:
One final note, make sure and verify all the float levels so you know you will get fuel correctly...
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Well noted. Got them all together and back on the bike and no change. I talked to some long time bikers in the area and ended up bring the carbs to their shop. Explained to the tech that there is nothing standard about the carbs and that they cannot be brought back to factory specs. Explained what is happening and he will be checking to ensure that the gas is getting through the carbs, checking the floats etc.. seems good and understands that they are not factory spec carbs so...
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"The last issue, I hope..."
Trust me, there is always another issue, eventually. ;)
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I think that is the only thing that you can count on with these little toys. Maybe I should stick with my kayaks?
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It's with any mechanical things, toys are toys. Some of the "issues" are maintenance, some are damage control/replacement, some are attempts to "improve" the said toy. It's more fun when it's something we undertake as a choice, not so much when it's comes up as an inconvenience. Usually. ;)
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Oh so true! Words of great wisdom that are. :chugbeer:
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Verify the airbox ain't ful of shredded stuff mouse nests...
Man, you have no idea just how much I want my hands and eyes on the bike, with a six pack....getrdone..
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One of the first things that I checked was the airbox and it was clean. Living in the country I am always afraid of those things getting into places that you do not want them. Tomorrow I put the carbs back on and give it a try. I will keep the saga of the bike updated as I go... I hope it all works in the am....
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After all that was done it turn out that it was a combination of the carbs being cleaned and the idle control adjusted not working correctly - probable from the ones who messed the bike up. The mechanic cleaned the carbs and fixed the adjuster and today the bike is alive. Been trying to attach a video of a running 92 but it doesn't want to let me do so but I will keep trying.
I think the You Tube link should work
http://youtu.be/ogfWW_FkS3A (http://youtu.be/ogfWW_FkS3A)
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Video and the bike work so now to put her all back together.
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Does that make you want to keep it now?
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Does it ever but with loosing my job last week, having a ton of bills to pay and 2+ weeks for unemployment to kick in I don't see how I can. I will do a bit of playing to see before hand
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wow - that's a seriously clean 92. I don't think you'll sell that bike and be able to replace it for what you'll get for it. I think you'll just have to keep it :chugbeer: Steve
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Thanks and now that it seems to run the way that it should I am really not happy about the position that I am in with the job. I have had several interviews and if one works then I will keep the bike but if not I will have no choice but to sell her until things improve once again. Still, when the do I will upgrade to something that is fuel injected, ABS, possible cruise and a radio....
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Wow, now I would like to keep it. I did a 30 mile trip tonight and it was a rush. The bike ran a bit warm but I may have not hooked up the fan when I pulled the tip over bars. I forgot how much I loved to ride and what it was like without all the goodies added on..... See how the interviews go this week and maybe I can just keep her. :banana
Thanks to all that have added ideas, to do's etc.. to get me to this point.
:chugbeer:
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:popcorn:
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Wow good for you! Been gone all weekend so i've been wondering.
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Funny thing is that I actually like it better without all the add-on options. I guess it just seems a bit more untamed and gnarly.
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So keep it - unless it means no roof over your head...
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I've got an extra tent. Can we scrape up a sleeping bag?
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Funny I have all the camping gear but winter would suck!
Actually, I just about at the launch of my own business and selling her at this point would allow for me to continue with what I have been planning and working on for almost a year. I did a really bad thing and test drove a Concours 14 and I want one. Easy words - WOW! So, if the projects on my business planes go as they look maybe I will have a toy for Spring. :)
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Good luck and good fortune on the new business. ....and yes, the 14 is nice.
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As much as I enjoyed my 30 mile trip the other night the bike is sold and the new owner took it for a test ride yesterday, loved it. Got off the bike with a huge smile and started to tell me his plans for the Spring and it sounded the same as those that I had. She may be gone but the new owner seems to know bikes, also has a Ninja and Speed Triple, and has plans for some long rides with the Concours. Told him about the site, all the help that I had here, Steve's carb work and other services and of course Murphs.
Will continue to visit the site and plan of being back with, maybe a 14, in the Spring. Still have the farkles for sale of course
Thanks for all the help
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Don't be a stranger. :)
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+1 :'(
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I will have a 14 by Spring and will be back
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If you don't mind my asking, what line of business are you jumpstarting?
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I am starting a consulting/administrative business for the Salesforce CRM. I hope to have the full site up in a week or so but first a, I sold my bike, kayak trip for a few days
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Enjoy your float trip.
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Thanks
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Float trip done. Bike gone but tons of gear left. Interviewing for a job in TX which would mean a c14 for me. Maybe .....