Hi everone, after 5000 trouble-less kilometers, my bike has given up.

I was driving to a nearby store, but when I wanted to leave again, the starter engine gave one cough, not enough to turn on, and then a sudden silence.
The starter button is completely unresponsive. No starter engine, no click. Fuses are still alright, and from what I could gather with one big screwdriver, the insides of the starterbutton looked fine too.

Is this a known thing?

It happens - but it could be a few things.  Make sure the battery connections are tight.  Tap on the j-box and hit the starter button - see if this fixes it.  If so, there are bad solder joints or relays.  Check the separate fuse just above the j-box.

I stole this from T-Cro a few years back (I don't think he will mind):

Help my Concours will not start and I don’t know what to do – from T-Cro.
(Bike does not Turn Over or Crank)

Tools needed Multi-Meter and a couple of Test Cords with Alligator Clips on both ends and Test Cords with an Alligator Clip on one end and a sharp probe on the other end.

1.   First off put the Bike on the Center Stand and make absolutely sure the bike is in Neutral by turning the rear wheel by hand. Remove the Seat and the left hand Side Cover. This is as good as a time as any to try the “Thumping the J-Box” trick as sometimes a good solid thump from the handle end of a screwdriver can get a defective J-Box to work at least one more time.

2.   What is my Battery Voltage? If you have anything remotely less than 12.5 Volts DC you just as soon stop and go get the Battery Charger or Jumper Cables because the battery does not have the energy needed to crank the engine.

3.   With the Key Switch in the ON position test the Horn. Does the Horn work? If yes you can skip step 4.

4.   Remove the cover from the Fuse Box which was exposed when you removed the Left Side Cover. Check your 30 Amp Main Fuse is it any good? If yes proceed to next step if it is bad replace it; try starting the bike if it blows again you got serious problems.

5.   Could it be that the Neutral Switch is on vacation? This is easy to determine simply pull in the Clutch and try starting the bike. If the Bike cranks then the Neutral Switch is at fault and needs to be attended to; if not the Starter Lockout Switch could be at fault. The SLS is that tiny little switch that you can hear click when you pull in the clutch lever.

6.   You can bypass the SLS by taking a suitable test cord and attaching it to Ground (Negative side of the Bike) such as a bare bolt head on the frame or engine and with the sharp probe poke it into the connector at the J-Box (behind the fuse box) into the Yellow with Green Stripe wire. Note this completely bypasses the Neutral Switch as well as the SLS. Keep in mind that it when the clutch is not pulled in that it takes both of these switches to allow your starter to work. Try starting the bike; if the bike cranks then the SLS needs some attention.

7.   If you did not find issue in the above steps we are going to find out if your issue is the Ignition Switch, Stop Switch, Start Button, Starter Solenoid, or the dreaded J-Box; so let’s do the easy stuff first. Take a test cord and attach it to the (+) Positive Side of the Battery and touch it to the terminal on the side of the Starter Solenoid that the Yellow with Red Striped wire attaches to. Did the starter motor engage and crank the engine over? If no then you got a bad Solenoid.

8.   Next we are going to take that same test lead that is attached to (+) and connect it to the Black wire going to the J-Box if the engine tries to crank over then the J-Box has passed it’s first test! As this means that the Starter Relay Circuit in the J-Box is good. If you failed this test get another J-Box or remove it for repairs.

9.   Now you need to remove the Fuel Tank and find the Ignition Switch Plug which is located near to the Steering Stem under the Fuel Tank on the Left Side. Ok now take your (+) test lead and probe it into yellow wire and try to start the engine if the engine cranks you have a bad Ignition Switch.

10.   If no then your next step is check the Kill Switch and/or Starter Button. With the same (+) test lead probe into the red wire in your Right Hand Control Pod Connector. Now try starting the engine if the engine cranks then your Kill Switch is at fault if not your problem lies in the Starter Button.

You see in the above very easy steps you have tested every segment of the Starter Circuit with no real tools or skills at all; please note that you can just as easily use the Multi Meter to test your switches and circuits by checking for voltage and/or continuity but I was looking to guide you through this as simply as I could with crude broad strokes that you can mange to do roadside if your in a pinch or lack the proper tools at home.

In future post we will do the same for other segments of the bike.

Seeing as you have a big screwdriver, one thing you can try is to (carefully) short the two big posts on the starter relay. If the engine turns over, you know the starter is working.

After that, there are a couple of interlock switches which might prevent starting. If your neutral light comes on, the neutral switch is probably ok.

There's a switch at the clutch which may have failed or become disconnected.

Finally, maybe the starter solenoid has given up the ghost. All assuming your battery is ok.

Trouble shooting is easier if you have a voltmeter.

Here's a drawing that might help:
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/junct2bnewc.gif

Thansk for the tips!

Alright, today I had a friend bring me to where I left the bike. We shorted the starter relay, and the bike ran as usual.

I drove it to the DIY garage where I do all my maintenance. While measuring the voltage over the starter relay the bike suddenly sprang to life.
So, nothing really got done, but it works now. We cleaned the starter switch and killswitch. I'm still not trusting it fully, it could be a fault inside the junction box which shows up irregularly of course.

Thansk for the tips!

Alright, today I had a friend bring me to where I left the bike. We shorted the starter relay, and the bike ran as usual.

I drove it to the DIY garage where I do all my maintenance. While measuring the voltage over the starter relay the bike suddenly sprang to life.
So, nothing really got done, but it works now. We cleaned the starter switch and killswitch. I'm still not trusting it fully, it could be a fault inside the junction box which shows up irregularly of course.

starter push button switch on right pod..  disassemble, and abrasively clean the little brass disc with the nub, the ends of the spring, and the solder blob it contacts when pressed.. abrasivly means use an Emory board, or fine sand paper.. clean all, and reassemble, and don't apply grease..

Check and make sure you are getting fire to the small wire on the starter solenoid, If you are, your starter solenoid has gone **** up. You can jumper from the battery to the small wire connection at the starter solenoid and the starter should engage. Make sure the bike is in neutral when you do this. If it starts turning over the solenoid is good, then look at the J-Box wiring.     HTH JD