So after her winter nap I go to start and have nothing.

[dl1911]

In preparation of taking a ride, I started my procedure for getting my Concours(2008) out of winter hibernation.

Fresh battery in the FOB, Bike on battery tender all winter.

I go out to start and I have nothing responding on the bike. Even the red blinking security light is out. I remove the battery and tucked in behind is a huge mouse nest!!! I thought I had my building secured from the little bastards but apparently I am wrong!

I removed the gigantic mess that was in there, checked battery voltage at 13.1 volts, reinstalled and still nothing.

Began to check fuses and all seem fine. I havent found any chewed wires as of yet but I havent pulled all the plastics yet.

If I am lucky enough to not find any chewed wires is there anything else I should look for that could be causing this problem?

Im fairly mechanically inclined and I have a factory service manual but if anyone has had a similar issue and had a fix any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks to all!

[Boomer]

The blinking red light only blinks for 24hrs after you shut her off.

I assume when you press down the ignition switch nothing happens?
First check the fob battery is at more than 3.2V and is the correct way around.

If that doesn't work, try giving the ignition switch a whack with a rubber mallet?
There is a known issue with the ignition switch sticking.

[dl1911]

Boomer,
Thank you for the reply.

I have checked the FOB battery for voltage and orientation. Both are good.

As far as the KIPASS I have had issues with it in the past and installed the bypass cable thing with the fuse in it. Even employing that I am getting no response whatsoever from the electronics on the bike.

Everything seems as if there is no voltage coming from the battery but I have tried 2 different batteries with the same result. I thought maybe the main 30amp fuse was bad but it checked out okay as well.

I have not found any chewed wires yet but I am fearing something is amiss with that. I just didnt know if there was something I could check before pulling all the plastics off as that is a big job on these bikes.

Thank you and the search continues.

[PH14]

Remove the ground wire from the frame and clean the connection. Check fuses.

[gPink]

Remove the ground wire from the frame and clean the connection. Check fuses.

including the main behind the battery box

[dl1911]

Thanks for the comments so far! I have checked fuses even the main. I removed the ground and cleaned it and reinstalled.

Still nothing😪

Lookslike the plastics are coming off for more inspection. Has to be a chewed wire somewhere.

[dl1911]

So I got to spend a little time trying to figure out my non starting issue.

Went thru all the fuses again and all are fine. I checked to see if I have 12v to the ECU when the battery is hooked up and it shows good.

I havent found any chewed wires as of yet. I have pulled some of the plastics off.

When I push down on the key slowly I can hear the micro switch on the KiPass clicking so Im thinking it is not stuck?

Tried rapping on the side of the KiPass with no change.

Anyone have any ideas at all?

Please help.

[Freddy]

To rule out a stuck activation switch you should remove the left black cover below the left grip, look for the harness connectors inside a rubber boot, disconnect the grey connector, reconnect, then see if key is able to be turn ON.

[PH14]

To rule out a stuck activation switch you should remove the left black cover below the left grip, look for the harness connectors inside a rubber boot, disconnect the grey connector, reconnect, then see if key is able to be turn ON.

He has Brian's KIPASS bypass installed and tried that.

[Big Red]

Even if there's no chewed wires, mouse urine is pretty corrosive. Could be down in any relay, fuse, junction, or connector. Just start at the battery and work your way up logically. I think I have a wiring diagram around here somewhere...

EDIT: found it and attached.

[dl1911]

Thanks guys,

Keep the ideas coming.

Big Red, I would agree with the urine being corrosive and it stinks to high heaven!

The wiring diagram you showed, is that the same one from the factory service manual?

Freddy, I do have one of Brian's bypass kits installed and I even tried removing it plugging and unplugging the factory harness. Still DOA.

I really appreciate the ideas guys!

I will figure it out. There is just sooo much on these bikes that is electrical......

[Big Red]

The wiring diagram you showed, is that the same one from the factory service manual?

Yup. The first gen manual, '08-'09.

[mikebike]

Did you check the kill switch?

[dl1911]

Question for the group.

Could it be possible that the solenoid in the activation process of the KiPass is either bad or stuck in the down position causing my issue?

OR, Could the micro switch on the activation lever of the KiPass be stuck or faulty and causing my problem of not getting anything to respond?

Thoughts??

[Big Red]

I suppose it's POSSIBLE, but your bypass should've ruled that out.

[dl1911]

Big Red,

I agree but if one of those two switches is stuck in the closed position Im thinking it might have cause a type of fault. In doing so Im wondering if the system shuts down to protect itself.

Or maybe one of those two switches has just simply gone bad?

Im not sure either way just trying ideas.

[tweeter55]

Stupid question here...
Have you disconnected the battery, gone in the house to have a cold 1 or 2 then come back out.
In essence a reboot.

[dl1911]

Tweeter55

Yes the battery has been disconnected.

[dl1911]

Okay so to add to the drama. I removed the cover that covers the seloniod that unlocks the key on the right side of the KiPass unit.

When I manualy depress the seloniod I can turn on the key. In the run position I can turn the motor over and I have headlights. The motor cranks but I do not hear the fuel pump and the dash readout is still blank so Im assuming no spark?

This is the first life I have had since the beginning.

I am starting to suspect the plunger under the key is stuck in the down position.

The thing that puzzles me is why my bypass wont work?

Ideas?

[Freddy]

Just to clarify the name of parts - KIPASS is an ECU located under the seat.  The ign switch (apart from having switches) it too has an ECU wherein the passive fobs reside - this ECU communicates with the KIPASS ECU.

I would think, given what you have described above, the problem is elsewhere.  Could it have rodent damage?

I have a vague recollection of someone having a similar issue and the problem was a rare failed Fuel Injection ECU.  KDS is needed to register a new/used FI ECU to the bike's brain.  Just my thoughts.  The early FI ECUs were all the same part number from memory.