Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: lather on July 05, 2011, 12:07:43 PM
-
I am changing coolant again, to get rid of the water wetter. Checked the coolant overflow bottle after refill, per service and noticed a leak. I think it has been there since I installed the PCV. I obviously overtightened the lower bottle mounting screw in order to insure a good ground. (or you non PCV users, the PCV installation isntructions suggest using this screw as a gorund)
I am trying some 2 part epoxy but after applying I noticed on the tube " will not bond polypropylene or polyethylene" I am wondering if anyone knows waht the bottle is made out of?
It has the markings:" <PE> on the side of the bottle :-\
(http://www.lamsta.com/gallery/coolantbottle1.jpg)
(http://www.lamsta.com/gallery/coolantbottle2.jpg)
-
How come you're getting rid of the water wetter?
PE = (you guessed it) polyethylene
-
It is polyethylene, or 'poor man's Teflon' and it does not play nicely with glue. You might be able to use some melted PE to fill in the crack but the really great news in all of this is that a new tank is only about $20, and even less at Ron Ayers ($15). My suggestion would be to buy a new bottle and be done with the leak because my experience with PE is that it is unworkable.
Also, you will want to move that P.C. ground wire up to the frame brace where the wiring harness is attached. Use the same bolt that is there holding the clip that the gray harness is attached to.
I know the instructions with the P.C. say to use that bolt but it is a terrible idea; using a plastic flange under a steel bolt to hold an electrical connection wire. At best the plastic will squeeze or flow out from under the bolt head, leaving a lousy ground and at worst the plastic will crack as in your case. Not your fault though as you were following directions.
Brian
I am changing coolant again, to get rid of the water wetter. Checked the coolant overflow bottle after refill, per service and noticed a leak. I think it has been there since I installed the PCV. I obviously overtightened the lower bottle mounting screw in order to insure a good ground. (or you non PCV users, the PCV installation isntructions suggest using this screw as a gorund)
I am trying some 2 part epoxy but after applying I noticed on the tube " will not bond polypropylene or polyethylene" I am wondering if anyone knows waht the bottle is made out of?
It has the markings:" <PE> on the side of the bottle :-\
(http://www.lamsta.com/gallery/coolantbottle1.jpg)
(http://www.lamsta.com/gallery/coolantbottle2.jpg)
-
years ago, in Ohio, where skiing was god at times, and horrible at times, I purchased PE sticks for repairing the slider suface on my downhill skis, many ski shops carry the materials, and I have welded PE using them many times to repair huge missing chunks from my skis.
Possibly you could get a ski shop pro repair guy to fix that....just offering the input. Grind out the cracked area, clean it well with brake kleener, and have them build the area back up, and then drill a hole....voila.
I actually remoulded the aluminum threaded filler neck into the fuel tank (PE) on my 74' KX450 with great success, using the sticks, a pinpoint needle tipped butane torch, and a lot of care....(I filled the tank with water to a point right below the repair).
-
I've repaired PE tanks before using a soldering gun and extra filler material also.
However, I like Brian's suggestion, a new one is cheap. Riders Choice Racing has them for $16.44 with free shipping - Kawasaki part number 43078-0047, (http://www.riderschoiceracing.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=788189&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2008&fveh=21328 (http://www.riderschoiceracing.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=788189&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2008&fveh=21328))
-
This is starting to become a habit, eh Lather?
-
How come you're getting rid of the water wetter?
PE = (you guessed it) polyethylene
The watter wetter works too well! I think it may actually reduce engine temp up to 20 degrees by making the radiator more efficient. But that extra heat removed has to go somewhere (I think that is a Federal Law or something) and it goes in the riders lap. The complaints of 08/09 heat that I scoffed at before are a reality with water wetter. I was fortunately riding with mesh pants that had large knee pads which saved my knees but the heat was funneled up into my crotch and it was not pleasant.
The water wetter experiment was not well thought out, I should have known. However, I mainly bought it for the VFR and it HAS cured the Viffer's overheating problem. The VFR's sideways radiators don't work well but at least their output is not aimed at the rider.
-
Thanks for the advice dudes. The epoxy repair seems to be holding. At least the epoxy seems to be sticking well and the leak has stopped. I know that does not mean it will hold up to road work so I will go with a new bottle. I have decided with the plastic off and my next trip a few weeks away I might as well do a valve check and spark plug change now. The SV and VFR work better for local rides in this heat anyway.
And yes Jim, it is a lifelong habit. If you aren't breaking your toys now and then you ain't playing hard enough ;D
-
Good choice IMO, the glue (whatever kind) simply cannot bond properly with polyethylene (or polypropylene for that matter) and you would certainly have to deal with that same leak again. I only mention this for anyone else who may have the same or a similar problem in the future.
Like the old joke goes, what do you glue the world's slipperiest substance with (P.T.F.E., trademarked Teflon)? Hope and prayers 'cause nothing else will work. Polyethylene is really no better although it may appear to seal for a time.
Brian
Thanks for the advice dudes. The epoxy repair seems to be holding. At least the epoxy seems to be sticking well and the leak has stopped. I know that does not mean it will hold up to road work so I will go with a new bottle. I have decided with the plastic off and my next trip a few weeks away I might as well do a valve check and spark plug change now. The SV and VFR work better for local rides in this heat anyway.
And yes Jim, it is a lifelong habit. If you aren't breaking your toys now and then you ain't playing hard enough ;D
-
I've repaired PE tanks before using a soldering gun and extra filler material also.
However, I like Brian's suggestion, a new one is cheap. Riders Choice Racing has them for $16.44 with free shipping - Kawasaki part number 43078-0047, (http://www.riderschoiceracing.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=788189&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2008&fveh=21328 (http://www.riderschoiceracing.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=788189&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2008&fveh=21328))
Thanks for the link, have you used them and gotten good results.
-
Like the old joke goes, what do you glue the world's slipperiest substance with (P.T.F.E., trademarked Teflon)? Hope and prayers 'cause nothing else will work. Polyethylene is really no better although it may appear to seal for a time.
Brian
Hmmmm, I must have missed that old joke Brian. I guess I can see why. ;)
-
Yeah, well it is probably more of an old, industrial- scientific joke really. ???
Brian
Hmmmm, I must have missed that old joke Brian. I guess I can see why. ;)
-
Nobody has mentioned GOOP Glue yet! Works very well. I always carry a tube in my toolkit. I have sealed up holes and cracks in flexible water jugs, gas tanks, water overflow tanks. And it glues just about anything together when your on the road and need a quick fix (like shattered marker light lens and housings). Available at hardware stores.
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/Automotive.htm (http://www.eclecticproducts.com/Automotive.htm)
-
I would just get a new coolant tank. It will eventually leak if you glue it.
-
Yeah, well it is probably more of an old, industrial- scientific joke really. ???
Brian
Kinda like "How do they get Teflon to stick to the pan??"
-
Exactly right- how do you stick the anti- stick stuff where you want it? Moderately humorous, at least to me.
The way it is done is that the pan surface is made very rough before the application of the non- stick coating. The coating grabs the “stalactites” of the pan surface and cures in place. It is not really glued in place, it is mechanically ‘wrapped around’ the pillars in the pan’s surface.
Brian
Kinda like "How do they get Teflon to stick to the pan??"
-
Exactly right- how do you stick the anti- stick stuff where you want it? Moderately humorous, at least to me.
The way it is done is that the pan surface is made very rough before the application of the non- stick coating. The coating grabs the “stalactites” of the pan surface and cures in place. It is not really glued in place, it is mechanically ‘wrapped around’ the pillars in the pan’s surface.
Brian
Wouldn't those be stalagmites Brian? ;)
-
Nah, because when they are stalagmites, it is really gravity holding the coating in the pan. Only when they are stalactites is any 'sticking' required....
;D
Brian
Wouldn't those be stalagmites Brian? ;)