OK
I've been dealing with Kipass issues for people since 2007.
please explain, exactly what you mean by
"You will need to send them your ignition switch with the black box that is attached to it, plus $380.00"
And also tell us all, exactly how this worked out...
I need some confirmation that you actually did this... I'm not believing it at all. Sorry, but I am skeptical about it in every way.
So please allow me to go back, and explain why I was a skeptic, I was not calling you a "liar", or belittling you in any manner; I wanted clarity and confirmation...
Now, with what you have posted here, and reading the website completely, and understanding "all" of the parts involved, anyone that has lost active fobs, and has no key, or passive fob either, is at the mercy of what I explained in my prior response, #3.
BDF brought up the same thing as I was mulling over, but for clarity I'll take a moment and say a few things about the difference of "making the bike run", and "making the bike run correctly, like it did from the factory"... i.e., with a normal FOB in pocket scenario.
The company you sent the money and parts to, is no different than a foreign one that popped up a while back, in Poland; I addressed the scenario they were "proposing" as the "cure" at that time. Other than trusting sending all that stuff overseas, with no sure outcome (which was verified by someone that did just that, and ended up without his parts, charged $$$, and months later ended up buying e-bay parts).
In both instances, it's clear that they crack open the chip reader on the ignition switch..(it really is only that, a reader...) and replace a module with one that will read a "coded chip", and paired them. This is where the Red Key Black Key, you got, and the box you ended up attaching the passive chip to... as you ignition switch was already "paired" to the bikes Kipass ECU, it didn't require a KDS.
BUT, had that module been damaged, or you simply didn't have thee stove key, it would have been more involved; When you got the RED key, you should have placed it against the "bump" on the ignition switch, and seen if the stove knob could be actuated.. likely it would, because the RED key had a chip also (kinda weird they sent you a key that was opposite hand, since you actually sent them YOUR knob key in the first place... ) I guess you could have cut the head off
that key, and glued it to the bump, and you would have had the BLACK key (which I assume also has a chip), which worked, and would turn the lock, as your new spare...
End result is:
for the money you spent, you still have no "active FOB", nor can you program one.. all you are doing is using the passive immobilizer.. to start and run the bike. If you loose your key now, you will be back to square one again. Chipped keys are easy to replace, and only run $20 with a chip, or $4 without the chip, but then, if they aren't cut to match the rest of the bikes locks, luggage, fuel tank, seat... etc.. you are still s.o.l. which was the case the original poster here came to us with..
The only way to make the bike "see" a real pocket fob, is to do what is noted in my #3 posting. period.
By the way, the fellow that felt all insulted, when I explained the whole "Poland company", ended up spending well over $1k+ in the end, as he lost his parts to the Polish repair company, paid them a bunch of $$$, still had no running bike, and ended up "buying all the locks and parts" matched, from e-bay..for like $800 more, and then went online in a facebook page, to call azz on the "unfriendly idiots" from the COG sites, that tried to tell him the simple stuff.
I will say this tho, if you ever need a "new ECU, or Ignition switch", you will find what I have said, to be very painfully true.
Without an active FOB and a key... you can't program another
active fob, which you still don't have.You also have an "open ignition lock" exposed to the weather, when you remove your stove key... so the result may be, "yes the bike runs", I don't dispute that... but the conditions resultant are not in my opinion, equal to a fully functioning as delivered security system, that works as it was designed. So, paying $400+, to make the bike run, vs $875 to make a secure bike, as designed, I would say is whatever you think it's worth, either way. I ride in the rain, all the time... I know what my choice would be.
Hopefully, the company the sent you the "fixed" switch and chipped keys, goes to the extent of using "various chip codes"... but in the back of my mind, I think they would just keep coding all those "re-furbs" with the same chipset... so you may not have a "unique" chip anymore....
I do thank you for sharing that all tho, it is a viable means, if needed, someday.