Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: sig on December 12, 2011, 11:34:21 PM
-
From Switzerland Europe(http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/5513/sigtp41ps4.gif)
Hello
You know this tool ;)
" Power-TEC Hot Stapler Plastic Repair System "
Power-TEC Hot Stapler Plastic Repair System (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnNeqSvPQKk#ws)
GRILLE REPAIR (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSRgNLy5ZWU#)
Dent Fix Hot Stapler - Bumper _ Plastic Repair Assistant.mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSgcHgJmf_U#ws)
Staples :)
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150701341072&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_499wt_1153 (http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150701341072&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_499wt_1153)
(http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/7277/gtr1000sig2033.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/641/gtr1000sig2033.jpg/)
-
I saw a video recently where a guy used copper wire melted into the plastic with a soldering gun and then melted zip-tie plastic over it. He fed the zip tie between the plastic and the soldering gun much like feeding a tig weld. Very cool.
-
A friend uses a hairdryer with a homemade nozzle.
The nozzle restricts the airflow so it gets pretty hot but so far the hairdryer hasn't died or exploded. ;)
He cuts a V in the back of the crack with a Dremel and then uses the hairdryer and some sticks of ABS to fill the V, much like you would when welding steel. I do like the idea of melting a piece of metal across the crack to reinforce it though.
That wavy design would negate the need for the metal to bond with the plastic.
-
Maybe grooves could be cut to lay some wire in. A U shape or something similar to hold the crack together. Than fill in with plastic or ABS cement. The tool would be cool but I would guess it is pricey.
Wayne
-
I've been very successful using JB Weld.
-
I just use black ABS cement. Very similar to PVC, but its just for ABS, and its basically ABS plastic in Acetone.
Good as new when dry.
Ive put tabs back on the fairing with it, and was surprised to see how well they held...actually dropped one, and it didnt break off when the repaired tab hit the floor...and no, it wasnt dropped purposely.
Id think for a larger repair, something easier should be used because its hard to hold something in position for the time it takes it to start to harden up. But for those, Ill take a hot soldering iron to the pieces first to hold them.
-
I've followed this and it works like a charm:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Plastics_repair_with_ABS_cement (http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Plastics_repair_with_ABS_cement)
Soldering iron, acetone, ABS chips.